got a buddy who has a couple of diesel blowers in good shape....i couldnt find anything in the search on whats needed to convert to gas!!! are they worth messin with??????
A turbo is a turbo, but the thing with those off the diesels is that usually they're pretty large. If the displacement from the two are similar then I wouldn't anticipate the kind of lag that would make it impractical. Impellers can be changed to reduce lag, but that's above my head. STS makes kit's that go under the rear of the car, and they manage to eliminate lag, so there's obviously enough new tech out there to do some pretty crazy things with these turbos. If the turbo is a big one (relative to your engine size), then i think the shorter the intake plumbing, the better. Are you talking like powerstroke diesel, or CAT diesel? EDIT: um... uh, it was late.. yeah, that's my story. I thought i might me making an incorrect assumption, considering the forum I should have put two and two together a little quicker.
I can't answer that question, but maybe you can call http://dyersblowers.com/ and ask them. Either way, it does have a price list on their site for the diesel to gas, as well as the hub, conversions.
Here is a broad Search. Used supercharger for the keyword http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=4427995&pp=25 Others that come to mind are Advanced Searched with Blower+Kerry (no smart remarks) And search my posts with eitherr Supercharger and or/blower and 4-53. You will spend a bit doing it yourself but you need skills and or pals with machine skills........otherwise, order up a ready to do one. I have faith in you Todd, at teh very least you got trading fodder. For the record, I have a tiny 4-53 that will go on the banger or a flatty. building a drive does not scare me, easy shit. It is only metal.
1. clean up and pull apart. 2. plug oil holes in the end plates. 3. swap the guts so the rotors point the other way and are in the other side of the case 4. put back together and check clearances. reshim as needed, bore out the dowl pin holes if needed and shim to correct bottom clearance. 5. Plug the triangle hole in the front cover with a plate, install a relief check valve, and fill with gear lube. Aftermarket end plates are required, or beefing up the stockers works, but making any power i wouldn't trust them. Stock gears seem to be ok. Keep in mind that the peripherals cost many, many times more than the blower core, and by the time you are done buying pulleys, belts, a snout, intake, and other crap you'll have over a grand in it.
The diesel blowers suck instead of blow kinda like the saturday-night-special!!!LOL Rotors need reversed and the drive kit installed>>>>.
Shit, if you dont want the blowers, i'll buy em from your buddy. The old Detroit blowers are the absolute best made, even if they are 50 years old. We got a perfect condition 1962 Detroit 4-71 ($200 on ebay) on our '35 ford and it makes about 1lb more boost than the BDS 4-71 blower it had with the same pulleys... dont ask me how. Ours was pulled straight off a diesel and was rebuilt by R&P Blowers, the guy who rebuilt it has been into blowers big time for 35 or 40 years (and owns the worlds fastest front engine dragster) and he said they do stuff like teflon tip modern rotors so they can be as good as the old detroit rotors. Overall, theres just under $1,000 into the rebuilt blower (that includes snout, $250 rebuild from R&P blowers, pulleys, belts, everything). We also got a perfect condition complete BDS 4-71 on ebay for under $1200. A brand new complete BDS 4-71 is $3,200+. I'd have a professional rebuild and convert it. If interested, I can find R&P's number and give it to you.
Get that how to book "street super charging" it has all the info you need to machine the blower for use.
to answer your question, yes, no, maybe are the superchargers from inline diesels or v-type? i don't think anyone is currently producing an intake to bolt a v series blower to a gas engine. dyers used to produce and sell them and you might get lucky and find one on ebay or a swap, so unless it's from an inline, i'd stay away from it. how is the condition of the case and rotors? you want everything smooth with no nicks or gouges. there's no repairing them and it isn't cost effective to replace them. you should have them rebuilt by someone with experience. mine came from a fellow hamber who got it from a guy who sells rebuilt blowers on ebay. there's some machine work involved. a beefier end plate and better bearings to hold up to the higher rpm you're going to spin it. new seals and clearencing it for gas. it's a job best left to a professional. then you need an intake for your engine and drive components. drive coupler, snout, pulleys, idler and belt will set you back 800-1200 bucks. carbs and adapter several hundred more. go to dyers website. there's loads of info and pricing on it. i think i did ok collecting parts. missing in the photo are the chrysler hemi intake and two inch gilmer style belt drive.
I've seen enough V style blowers on street cars to think it's worth while to save a few from the scrap bin at work. I think the rotors are the same between the inlines and the V units. Do you have the core yet? Flatman
no, i do not! ive been callin keith this afternoon, but he must be out on a call...he has a truck/ag repair bidnezz, so i assume there detriots????? or something like that! i know jack and shit about these....all i know is...chicks dig scars and blowers~! course the only scar i have is where my johnson used to be....but she lets me see it every thanksgiving!!!!
I think I'm gonna prune one of my 6V71s and run it like the ones I've seen here recently....at least with the V-series there is less material to hog off. The V-series blowers are shorter than the in-liners and I'm pretty sure the rotors won't interchange because of that. I'll have to pull the two types off the shelf and take another look to see where the difference in length is.....case vs end plates. I know that the shorter blower will help in packaging with my Y-block. -Bigchief
Todd, silent-rick and 413 are right on. I've done a few and there is a difference in even the 6-71's, some I noticed have larger bores in the same size case and should be listed as more cubic inches like 6-93 or something to that effect. I absolutely agree on the high speed bearings. Trucks run them at much lower rpms, so knowing you and getting in and out of traffic you will spin it way faster than it ever would in a truck. They are cool too boot. I bought one from a fella on Ebay for 200 bucks as well, looked like hell. Took it to my buddy to polish it. It looked better than my new blower intake and the snout I bought new for it. I will warn you as was said earlier, the small stuff will cost you the most. I searched Ebay night and day looking for snouts and plates and carb plates cheaper. More of a headache, but I love that since I have no personality or life. If you do do it, you know I am here to misdirect you anytime...
Here are the physical differences when first eyeballing them. http://www.fordflathead.com/blowers_101.html click on the pic of the blowers to link to the rest of the article. Should clear some stuff up.
You bet. I've got a real nice '57 272 going into my '48 Tudor. I've got a sweet '62 292 truck motor (yup, steel crank, good heads, 4-barrel manifold, etc) that I'm going to supercharge for another project.....unless some drive parts fall out of the sky cheap then I'll bolt it on my 272 and run hoodless on the '48. ....and by supercharger, I'm refering to a windmill rather than a squirrel cage. -Bigchief.
Dawm, you guys are good! Oh, if your gonna do this yourself, use 2 gear pullers, one on each gear, if it has helical gears. Back each one off alittle at a time. Be sure to sit them up to a good clearance, too tight and the rotors will hit each other. If your not experienced, have someone do it that is! Your engine may depend on it! Also, on the front of blowers on the main drive gear, there's a little gizmo that has 2 lobes on it, and on the sides of this gizmo, it'll have what looks like shims. This thing is a take-up for smoothing out the power pulses from the engine. A engine that lopes is very hard on a blower, there's a lot o weight in there spinning, and it the fit isn't good and the rotors aren't pinned, you could be in for a world of hurt. As long as everything is in good shape, you don't try to spin it too fast, and your bottomend is in good shape, you'll never want to be without one!
I second this. Its written by Pat Ganahl. Its shows how the conversion is done on a 471. Well worth the purchase price if you're looking at doing one yourself.
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