ok. my truck will start right up when its cold but it will barely turn after its been running for 5 minutes. is this a timing issue or what?
The Starter is worn and the armature drags when it gets warm. My old truck has been that way for 10 years. I'm gonna fix it some day, but as long as it starts cold I just don't turn it off till I'm done using it or plan on sitting for awhile. Sometimes it sets a year.
Had a ford with a bad fuel pump once. Gas leaked into the motor and thinned out the oil. When cold it started fine, got warm and everthing tightened up real good.. Found it when I did an oil change . 5 quarts in , 2 gallons out..
hit it with a little bit of starter fluid and it will fire right up.my same problem turned out to be the carb.
I believe that has the starter with the movable field iron. If so, it can be cleaned up or replaced. have to take starter apart, or to a parts house or rebuilder. also check all connections.
check starter draw cold and starter draw hot. could also be the gas is perculating [boiling over] into the intake when shut off hot, filling the cylinders with raw gas, that would make it turn hard. check the route of your fuel line and make sure its not resting on heat sources. cadillac dave
What motor are we talking about? Chevy's with headers frequently have a problem turning when hot because the starter heats up. In that case you can install a heat shield, or move the solenoid.
First thing I'd check is all the grounds, heat adds resistance and if you have a weak ground connection, you'll find it, the resistance will be too high and it won't crank. One way to determine if that's the problem is to add another ground cable to the block. The lazy guy uses that as the repair; the thorough guy starts checking engine to body ground straps, taking off other cables and cleaning terminals, and so on.
How close to the headers is the starter? The heat could be fucking with the starter making it loose power when hot. I had that problem on my old 38, wrapped the headers in heat proof cloth and that fixed it. Second problem I had was the fuel would vaporise once shut down and make starting a bitch, re-routed it to a cooler place and cured it. Doc.
It sounds like startersolenoid overheating or gasoverheating in fuelline to carburator or in the carburator??++
SBC starters with the exhaust in close proximity are famous for this. Happened all the time with my circle track cars with higher than stock compression ratios. Usually after racing a few laps then getting spun out and stalling then engine. Really sucks trying to get refired with a hot starter while a few thousand people are looking at you.
lots of great info here, but how about a little history??? what kind of motor in what kind of car? carb? FI? points? hei? kinda like calling a doctor and saying it hurts when I do this...
I'll chime in on the starter also. Pete Joe gave me this suggestion when my 54 Chevy was doing the same thing. When it's hot and it won't turn over get a pitcher of cold water and pour it in the starter. If it then starts, it's the starter. Pretty simple. Worked for me.
wow. lots of good info guys. thanks. yeah the timing is advanced a hair and the starter is right next to a header. i'm gonna get some insulation and wrap it up its got a 429 scj, edelbrock mani, 600 cfm holley, jegs racing starter with an 18:1 max
If your running a keyless ignition or some type of switch to turn the starter over and get her going make sure you're 8 or 10 guage wire. I had this same issue with my truck and that was the problem. Use too small a wire, and get too much resistance. Good Luck, Seth BTW... The vehicle is a 57 Chevy Pick Up with a Big Block...
Ford big blocks have 2 solenoids, the one on the fender and one on the starter for increased amps to the starter motor. Owned Ford big blocks pretty much all my life. It normally boils down to one of three things. The solenoid on top of starter, the starter or the battery. Rule out the easiest first, have your battery load tested. If the battery shows weak on the load test, replace it. If the battery tests ok, then pull the starter and have an amp draw test done, if the starter fails on this test replace it. If it passes then your problem may lie with the starter and heat. You may have to fabricate a heat shield for the starter to protect it from the heat of the exhaust manifold or header.
The starter gets hot and wont turn over go under vehicle and do the tap tap with a hammer it should turn over then
ok here I GO. as 66belle states, fords have a good starter circuit, a remote solenoid usually works ok, however the ford starter has a moving field iron and electrical contacts inside.Sometimes the moving iron gets grungy and sluggish [leaky valve cover gaskets]and then a contact doesnt make up and the contact deteriorates. Cleaning inside the starter and filing the contacts usually does the trick. Starters are not complicated, if you dont want to take it apart and just get another, thats good but, before turning in your core,for your own info take yours apart and see what was going on in there. If you do take it apart be careful that the brushes dont get hung up when going back together.You should check your starter regardless of what went bad, stuff happens when something goes down in the electrical system, usually its a battery, then alternator, bad connections, dirt, heat, etc. I have found usually something has degraded or failed and it causes a chain reaction, and things start happening, so start looking at all the things that may have caused this, and like for us, time marches on and it could just be, old age. gggg
**** I second this, I had the same problem as you checked the starter as everyone else has stated but it checked out fine. It turned out that when the PO did a motor swap they just hooked up the factory thin braided ground strap and when I would crank after it was hot it actually smoked and started to melt the ground strap. So i checked all my grounds and put a good thick one from the motor to the frame and now at full operating temp it cranks perfect everytime. Hope this helps Tyler
I've heard of a starter motor to block grounding problem to cause inconsistent starting troubles. In this case, the aluminum starter motor case had corroded some, as well as the iron block. The mounting bolts weren't enough to properly ground the starter motor. This was on a 93 stock LT-1 Firebird.
I had the same problem , with my 1959 Plymouth. The starter , solenoid switch all oK ! I would say it has to be timing. My friend Trevor found that the car was way to advanced and that was preventing the car to start when at operating tempture. I say check the timing first, before any electrical items
My Caddillac did that and all it needed was a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the starter. When they get hot they don't want to turn over due to expansion and clearences. Good luck, Rags
once i had a bad battery that when it got warm would dead short out, when it got cold car was ok agian
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