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Projects A Fordor Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mosimpson, Dec 10, 2006.

  1. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Last of the fab on the rearend is to make and attach the wishbone 3rd link. I bought a you fab your own wishbone kit from Suicidedoors.com. I got the kit with the superpivot. Here are a few pic's fabbing up the bracket for the superpivot:

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    I haven't got all my parts from suicidedoors.com. Brown Santa should be visiting the house tomorrow :D. Then I can fab the actual wishbone!
     
  2. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lookin' good man! You're getting closer!
     
  3. Twisted Minis
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 233

    Twisted Minis
    Member

    Very nice work. Maybe I will get a chance to see this thing someday, since you're so close.
     
  4. ot0_m0t0
    Joined: Sep 18, 2006
    Posts: 64

    ot0_m0t0
    Member

    Are the screws that hold the upper shock hoop strong enough?
     
  5. monzadood
    Joined: Sep 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,033

    monzadood
    BANNED

    i gotta subscribe to this. i just picked up a fordor.
     
  6. SchlottyD
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 740

    SchlottyD
    Member

    This is bad ass!:eek: Don't have any plans of bagging my hot rod project, but I'm thinking about trying it on my 63 F100. Anyway, cool post keep up the nice lookin work and you'll have something worth driving for sure.
     
  7. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member



    The shock hoop is bolted to the frame by four 3/8-16 SHCS. The stress area for a 3/8-16 bolt is A=.077 sqin. Assuming the car weighs 2500 lbs and this weight is distributed evenly front to back results is 1250 lbs at the rear axle should the car undergo a 1g drop. Ignoring the effects of the shocks (assume everything is rigid), the bolts must account for this 1250 lbs. The force in each bolt would be 1250 lbf/4 =312.5 lbf. The resulting stress in the bolts would be 312.5lbf/.077 sqin = 4058 psi. The yield strength for steel is 36kpsi. This results in a factor of safety of 8.8. Yes I think they will be fine. :)
     
    brEad likes this.
  8. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    YES! Good man! Doing your math!! Two thumbs up and 5-stars from me for that response right there!!!!! :D:D
     
  9. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Suicide doors finally came through with all the stuff I needed to build my wishbone for the rearend. I originally bought the unwelded wishbone kit with the super pivot. I wanted to have adjustibility of the rearend angle so I added on some extra parts to the original kit. I got the big threaded stud (1.125 -12 UNC) to weld to the super pivot. I also bought a 18" long piece of their 1.5 tube that is threaded at one end to accomodate the threaded stud. Suicide doors also custom bent a piece of the 1.5" tube at a 60 degree angle for the other leg of my pivot. I coped all the tube and tacked things together. Here is what it looks like:

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    The big question now is weather the wishobone will clear the pumpkin when the rear bags are aired out. We'll know as soon as I get it up on all fours :confused:
     
  10. Twisted Minis
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 233

    Twisted Minis
    Member

  11. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Ok this post is going to leapfrog a couple steps. If you have been studying the pic's you'll notice the rearend got reassembled, but I'll cover that later. Here is what everything has been building to..............A ROLLER :D Check this out:

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    Last night I aired the car up for the first time and rolled it off it's base. That base has been it's home for the last 1.5 years :eek:. I rolled the chassis out of the garage and let the air back out. The pic's above show the rolling chassis aired out. It's funny when you stand back and look at it there doesn't seem to be much there, but it took a year and a half to reach this milestone.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
    brEad likes this.
  12. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey man! Congratulations!
     
  13. Just stumbled on this thread, Great project, awesome step by step updates. I especially like the 3d modeling and use of cad for patterns.
     
  14. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    Nice thread, I appreciate you covering all the details! Car looks great!:cool: What cad program are you using?
     
  15. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    too bad you can't utilize the back doors.... cool project though!!!
     
  16. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Good for you man, congrats!! Looks like you are really coming along nice, you must be thrilled to see it outside rolling on it's own. Getting it off of the platform for the first time is a great feeling. Body looks really nice & solid too. Keep up the great work

    Dan
     
  17. 416Ford
    Joined: Mar 28, 2007
    Posts: 825

    416Ford
    Member

    I would love to be there when someone refers to your car as a RAT ROD.:D

    Excellent post, fabricating and researching. Looks like you have a well planned project. Keep up the great work and good luck getting back on schedule. That seems to be the hardest part of a project sometime.
     
  18. Twisted Minis
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 233

    Twisted Minis
    Member

    It really looks just right.
     
  19. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Thanks again Dan. I'll say it again, your (original) project was the inspiration for what is happening here. Thanks for all the help!


    <TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 2885324" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>jerseyboy</TD><TD class=alt2>Re: A Fordor Project
    <HR>Nice thread, I appreciate you covering all the details! Car looks great!:cool: What cad program are you using?</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

    The CAD work is done in Solidworks 2008. Glad you're enjoying the build.
     
  20. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here is a quick post showing the front end assembled. I bought the front end assembly from Riley Automotive and received my member discount. Post #54 shows all the parts that came with front end. Here is what it looks like after you put it all together:

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    On the driver's side I got the steering arm from Speedway. The casting of the caliper did interere with the steering arm at one point. Nothing that the 4.5" grinder couldn't solve. Here is a picture of the drivers side assembly:

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    I just have a couple of items to finish the front end, shocks and steering. Those will be the next tasks on the list :).
     
  21. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Remove double post.
     
  22. skottyknukkles
    Joined: Feb 19, 2008
    Posts: 314

    skottyknukkles
    Member

    hey nice project! im building a 4 door my self.
     
  23. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    This post is out of sequence, but while I was building all the "bracketry" for the rearend, my brother rebuilt the rearend. We wanted posi at the rear so we bought a new pig setup with posi. I forget the exact rear ratio, it's around 3.7:1. Here is a picture of the pig:

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    He also rebuilt the rear brakes and cleaned up the old parts. Here is what they look like now:

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    The last thing we took care of was new Timken bearings for the axles. I don't have a any pic, but both axles are riding on new tapered roller bearings.:cool:
     
  24. N312RB
    Joined: Dec 12, 2007
    Posts: 418

    N312RB
    Member
    from Burlington

    You, scootermccrad, and all the other A sedan owners on this board are corrupting me. I WANT ONE!!

    Awesome job so far man!
     
  25. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Confirmation- 3.70 28 spline Posi
     
  26. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here was a little project to add a finishing touch to my rearend "bracketry". I have a 1.25" dia. tube that serves as the basis for my lower shock mounts. The bar runs between the bar/bag mount brackets. After welding the bar in place and trimming it back I had the open, uncapped bar staring at me :eek:. I decided to make a couple one off bar end caps on the lathe. Here is what I came up with:

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    Here are a couple of pic's of the endcaps installed:

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    Looks a lot better don't you think??? :D
     
  27. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here is a short update. I have been distracted by household chores and haven't been able to dedicate as much time to the car as I would like. Still small progress has been made. I located and bought a T5 transmission to help define the layout of the interior of the car. I bought a Bendstens transmission adaptor to mate the T5 to the nailhead. Here are a few pictures to illustrate:

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    And here is the whole assembly:

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    With the tranny in place I can begin to define the cowl steering and pedal location. More updates to follow soon!
     
  28. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Wow it's looking good... you're doing an excellent job!
     
  29. Looking great. Very impressed with the design and fabrication work. I remember watching DodgeRodder's progress, too.
     
  30. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here are some pic's of a patch job I did to the substructure under the dash. Somebody had carved a hole to mount something in the stock dash. I couldn't take staring at it any longer so I patched the hole. First I cut the hole to a nice rectangle. Then I made a patch the same size as the rectangle cutout. Here are a few pictures as I went through the steps:

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    I don't have a final pic that shows it, but I did shape the bottom edge to match the curve of the dash. The welded area still needs additional metal finishing, but it sure beats the ugly hole that was there.
     

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