32 Ford chassis - back to the basics w/ LOTS O' PICS

Well, I never really post alot of "project progress" pics, usually just show the end result and then build pics if someone is interested, but I guess its time to change that.

This is a current project, that I have had in the shop for a while, and just now digging in on it since I finished the rust repair on the 50 Chevy convert... (story in itself).

Its for a customer and friend, who is a quiet member on this forum. All original 32 Ford 3w coupe. Full fendered. Simple yet well executed approach is what we are going for. Nothing over the top, just the right combination of parts to create a very nice traditional and respectable hot rod. Only non-genuine parts will be the boxing plates and spadaro quick change, although that may change.

1932 Ford 3w coupe, full fendered, 8ba w/39 Ford trans, closed drive, unsplit bones.

There is alot of work, fitting and time it in already, and it doesnt even appear that way, thats kind of the plan....

Heres the frame as it came back from blasting, very nice, with a little attention needed at the frame horns front and rear. They were replaced, including the little plated that are inside the rails for the spreader. Details are the focus really... you can see the handy work that was done on the original rear crossmember from a previous owner... terrible job repairing cracks, but this will all be replaced.

 

With the rails repaired, we mocked up numerous crossmember combinations with the intended suspension to get the stance and wheelbase just right. I dont have any pics of the frame on the ground, mocked up, I will show stance when its all done, but here is a pic of the pile of crossmembers and springs, and a pic of the original suspension pieces.

Those are suposed to be NOS Lincoln wheels, found by the customer in original packages. There is alot of those kinds of treats coming in this project. Original 32 axle. Steering arms are just pieces we used for mock up and like I mentioned before, that is a Spadaro center section, but may be swapped out for an original piece.

The stance will have the rear wheels centered in the wheel wells. I went with a model a front and rear crossmember. Reversed eye original springs and 4" dropped and drilled 32 axle.

 

Model A front crossmember was a bit shorter inside the rails than the 32, so I cut the bottom front flange and lengthened it to fit tight.

We opted for Ionia Hot Rod shop boxing plates, but then decided just to use them in the rear. I put solid plates up front, just for cosmetics and to ease placement of engine mounts and steering box. It was just too tough to use the holed plates up front. I fit the plates to "tie" in the front crossmember and trimmed the crossmember accordingly...

All this was done after 79 nuts were welded in the frame.

 

What size nuts were used on the fender braces? Bottom holes? Running board holes?

Looks good

Rusty

 

Going with F-100 steering box with a new 32 Ford style flange.

 

Thanks Rusty... I used all stock sizes for those, combo of 1/4-20 and 5/16-18. Running boards were 5/16-18 and the rest you mentioned were I believe 1/4-20.

 

nice work, cant wait to see more.
thanks.
Al.

 

Thanks Al... I had to step out for a bit, but I am back, heres more...

We decided to use the Ionia boxing plates, only in the rear, between the original K-member and the model a rear crossmember. The Ionia plates are very nice, but the belled holes are arranged to accomodate an x-member. With the mild 8ba, we decided to just use the very solid and intact K-member, and box around it. To do so, the hole pattern of the boxing plates had to be rearanged. Its hard to follow, but two holes were taken out from front, trimmed down and placed in a section towards the rear.

 

Once the boxing plates were sorted out, got the model A rear crossmember massaged and cleaned up. Fit the boxing plates, cleaned up the rails, fit plates to K-member and A rear crossmember with the same treatment as the fronts. There will be a small gusset that will go between the rear crossmember and boxing plate above the C-notch, which was just fit.

All these things are tacked or clamped in, and now I will proceed to heli-arc them all in and will post pics following that

 

looks very nice, man!!!

 

Thanks Matt, means alot....

let me know, and I will get those gussets out to you.

 

Looks killer man!! What is going on with the steering box? I see that you made a new flange does that get welded to the new box?
Thanks
Jimmy White

 

Yea, it will get welded on, carefully... I will tear it apart, heli-arc a little at a time, try to perserve the bore and such, and not require any machine work. Its a new flange that has the same pattern as the stock 32 and will mount in the stock location. I cut the F-100's flange off, as it was too big and the shim setup thats available just wasnt jivin. I will mock up the stock box and column, locate the steering wheel in "space", and place the flange and f-100 box in place with the wheel in same place, and weld on in the correct orientation and angle.

I will have to them make a acces hole and cover for the box through the boxing plate.

Tardel sells the flanges and stuff I think, but I just took matters in my own hands.

The flange is threaded, 3/8 fine thread and will get bolt from the outside.

thanks Jimmy for the compliments and interest

 

Yeah man, thats cool I have thought about doing that myself. I have always wondered how it would weld? Shoot me a p.m. after you do it, I would like to know how it turns out.
Thanks
Jimmy White

 

I'll find out soon!

 

PM hell, post the results here. that new flange is trick as hell man

 

Frame is looking great. I look forward to seeing htis come together.

Mike Bishop covered this in the BT A-V/8 book. I had to do the same thing on my chassis with a 37 Hudson steering gear. I tried to weld the flange with nickel rod, but even with it pre-heated, the weld cracked. I ended up suing 7018 low hydrogen and it welded great. I'm curious to hear how TIG works.

Thanks,

Neal

 

Looks good.. Ill be watching this one for sure.. I like the idea of the gusset over the rear c-notch. I did that on my roadster just because..
Keep up the good work. I may get out your way for a look see yet.
Dave

 

thanks for all the compliments....as far as welding the flange... 200T and ER70-S2 will bring too much carbon present and cause to crack.... I think I will try 5545 or even a 309 alloy filler..as they have great disimilar metal properties (more nickel and copper content). As a last resort I can go with a silicone bronze....but that can not be gone over well...as for the rest of the chassis I will use ER70-S2 as opposed to 200T...the S2 has a bit more silicone and flows or "wets out" a little nicer

 

I think the 309 would probably work pretty good. You could probably use NI-ROD, it is good for welding cast, Like I said I am really interested in this. I dont know about the silicon bronze, like you said you cant go over it very well. But at the same time silicon bronze is pretty strong as well. I cant wait for the end result!!
Jimmy White

 

Very nice, looks like a cool project for sure. Sounds like this build will really showcase your talents Mike. Keep us posted. That F1 box was a job I should be doing right now for myself but trying to finish up the last of the 57 chevy build is killin me.

 

nice clean job....I`m at about the same stage with my own frame.I notice on the pics that you have mounted the rear crossmember flat against the frame rail(top)...I spent a couple of hours grinding and filing a wedge of steel to rotate the crossmember downwards to get the spring mount(top of the A crossmember) at the correct angle...have i wasted my time doing this?should it be mounted flat to the frame....I`ve not welded it up yet, so I can change it if I`m wrong..thanks.

 

That looks really nice!

 

Yes ... what Django said

 

Great looking chassis. Maybe sometime you could do a tech post on the different filler rods and their purposes. This is an area I'd definitely like to know more about, especially as applied to hot rod building.

 

well, this is something I have gone over and over...

I have come to the conclusion that every setup will vary, but after mocking this thing up and everything, I have determined that at ride heighth the torque tube will be damn near level, and therefore so will the rear crossmemberwhich puts it ALMOST tight against the top.

Basically... the rear crossmember top needs to be pararllel with the torque tube

If your like me you can really get wrapped up in things like this, and second guess yourself, but I have went over and over it, both on paper and with mock up. thanks to a couple of friends and a phone call I determined this is correct

Your setup may very well require a shim or wedge

Thanks again guys for the compliments

 

nice work!

 

Heres an update, sorry some of the pics are blurry, not sure why.

First is the c-notch, pretty self-explanitory....

 

Next I tackled the steering box flange.... as show above, I made a new flange that is the same hole pattern as the stock 32, I needed to locate that at the proper angle and such, and weld it up.

First I mounted the stock 32 column and box, and located the steering wheel center in reference to a couple locations on the frame table. I made a quick "saddle" for it with some round stock and tubing just so that I could "set" the F-100 column in that same general location.

 

I am enjoying watching this come together. It looks great. Keep us posted.