Are you ever going to have 10k saved in CASH, in case a SOLID but "stripped" 34 shell & frame pops up??? Do you enjoy reworking old body panels...or hate doing that work? If I really wanted a 33/34 5w, I'd jump on it. I like working on sheetmetal though....
Pass. It will cost alot to get it straight. Save up 8 to 10 grand and buy a nicer one. Your going to spend that much anyways on this and it will never be as good.
theres that really trashed one ebay it has a rotted top and ok lower section by both and then you might have one nice body
It's worth well more than $2k right now. Patch panels aren't cheap for a '34 but they're out there. If the frame comes with it then it's a real good deal. I've been watching what 34's go for and collecting parts for mine and it would be easy to flip that one for more money.
2k doesnt buy much of anything these days especially a 34 if it was me and I wanted it she would of been mine, five hundred wont buy anything anymore.
sam, you dont seem like your too excited about......that might be an indication to pass on it...........jim sibley might wanna give it a shot, lol
I would not hesitate for a moment to buy that one for 2K. I could part it out and double that in month, I know because I HAVE.
lol,,i'm sure it won't last long once it hits the Autotrader.,,but it has been advertised locally for 3 weeks acording to the owner,,,i just heard about it night before last.
but what would you part out? ...to sell for 4K??? a cowl (actually pretty decent other than needing patch panels).two very fucked up doors, one not usauble for parts.)a smashed up quaterpanel ,,,one usable quarter panel that needs patch panels. a roof that has rust through on it in many places,not to mention all the damage on it? all that is worth 4K parted out?!
Sam if this will help you: I bought this one for 9k 2 years ago. It has ONE rust hole the size of your thumb ...and that's it. Came with the frame, windshield, deluxe dash, windshield, deck lid and garnish moldings...
You answered your own question!To the guy that is missing ONE of those key parts makes them worth more. I brought back a rear roof section (basically from the B pillars back for a pal, he paid $500 just for that.
I am going to be looking in the autotrader next week for this one. I would buy it. Like most are saying they are not getting any cheaper.
Cheese grater rust bucket according to my pops.......He went and looked at it last weekend and called me to tell me about it and he said it is "rough" and for him to say that it must have been.........but, as he said you don't see that many 34' coupes lately, but it is a lot of money for a rust bucket. Chris Nelson Kansas
2K is not bad.....but I like doing metal work. Hey, a t least you're not working on a chevy that has no reproduction panels....haha.
I agree with Eye....i would pay it and just let it sit around till i was ready.it will always go up in value if you decide not to build it.My .02
thank you Chris! these guys who are saying they would scoop it up in a heartbeat have obviously not seen it in person,the crappy cell phone pic makes it look like its something worth fixing,but up close its a whole nother story...you guys are making me laugh with some of your comments, haha and Kris Elmer,that is an awesome body,,i would feel way more comfortable paying 9K for that than 2K for this body...
i looked at this tonight,,,i told the dude i'd sleep on it like Meatloaf......the doors are completly wasted..the driverside MIGHT be usable with a inner & outter lower partch panel and alot of metal work,,ALOT of metal work..,but the passenger side is just decoration. there is no decklid,the passenger side quarter is completely smashed up,,pretty bad. there is rust through everywere, .......Major problem if the rust thru is in areas where patch panels aren't available or aren't big enough ,i didnt see one panel without pinholes,,...on the roof,in the winshield inner header ......... This is what kills the deal, there is no good fix for thin rusty pinholed metal, especially if it is everywhere......,the body is seperated from the floor (what floor?!)and is flopping around at the bottom of the body,,,the rear lower valance is smashed up.the frame has visable rust through in the rear from 10 feet away.it needs patch panels al the way around...all the garnishes are gone ,,it was an ex stock car many many years ago.... RUN!!! DON"T WALK AWAY FROM THIS ONE!!!!! In addition to the rust thru and pin holes, the other problems are bad but could be overcome if you had something to work with. I would hate to try and part this out and tell the buyer what he was getting without misrepresenting it. Anyone that says this is an "easy fix' has been smoking crack. Save your money and wait for a good body with solid metal. Pay more and get quality, and you might get it done before you get burnt out. This one meets the definition "RAT ROD"!!.
what do the stock car guys pay for those bodies,i bought one of those a year a go for 1.000 dollars but don,t have any pics of it . your pics are hard to go by and i don,t have any,but you know what they say a fool and there money soon parts
I'd spend $2000 for that. A decent model A coupe that needs all the patches is going for $1000-$1500....and a '33/4 5-window is one of my "must have" cars. Like was mentioned above, just buy it and stick it in a corner for a while. Eventually you'll forget how much you paid. Er....I only got to the end of page one before I replied. Looks like it is as bad as you say....so nevermind.
I say build it back into a stock car and then sell it, you will get alot more for a running driving car, probably enough to buy a real nice body and frame. Just me thinking out loud.
Off the top of my head.... Repro garnish mouldings (steel) $2,800 Decklid $800 subrails $500 Trunk hinges $250 roadster quarter panel $2,500 quarter patches for the other side $100 rocker panels $100 Complete door skins with bead (both) $1,200 Inner door patches $100 Below decklid panel and related drip pans and such $600 Cowl patches $125 $9,075 plus all the little shit that is rusted or wore out beyond repair like door latches, hinges, cowl vent, rear window parts, side window regulators, etc. etc. This is just the money - not included is the mind fuck time to straighten, square, and align the old heap to something you would be proud of. Buy it (unless you have to get a loan) - part it out - DO NOT get attached to it
Thats mine thank you and theres no way in hell I would take $2k for it!! You can buy this one....but not for $2k! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...005QQitemZ150209103920QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I paid around 900 for our '35 that was liberated from a creek bed. It's hard to say from the shitty pick, but it looks fixable. Someone will save it.
ITS A 1934!!!! I would have it at my place already. I dont care if its totally gone Its still a good piece to start with because when you get done with the work the freakin thing will be worth just as much as all the others so when you went to sell it you could end up making some good money. Tin is Tin man and for it to be a 1934 coupe my jaw drops at any of that tin. Ive paid good money for some ruff bodies. Hell I love working with that 80 year old thin tin that when you weld to it the weld burns through every time. It just seperates the "Builders" from the "Buyers" If your not up to the job then pass but you could still make money on whats there shit just fix the frame and get all of your money back -Jon
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