Plan is to install cast iron headers on my stovie and drive it to the exhaust shop. There is a shop near me, but the one I prefer is near where I work, an hour+ commute away. Is it safe to drive this distance (or any distance) just on the cast iron headers? I've heard stories of burnt valves and such so thought I'd ask.
You'll be fine. I would just try to avoid a lot of letting off the throttle while in gear, to keep from sucking in any more cold air than necessary. Even then not a big deal. Think of all the Harleys that are ridden regularly with short drag pipes. Every one of 'em would have burnt or warped valves.
I don't think it will hurt much more than your hearing. Of course sucking in exhaust fumes won't do much for you either. And you might not impress the sound police. As for burning a valve, I doubt if it would. Running less backpressure, would mean less heat, so I wouldn't worry about that. About the only thing that I can think of that you may want to consider is the fire hazard, of running with nothing but the headers. If you still have the old set up on it, and you need the services of an exhaust shop, perhaps it would be better to have them install them, rather than driving it uncorked for an hour. Good Luck!
No way would I drive it 3 blocks with nothing but headers. All you need is a backfire or a belch of flame and your car could go up. if nothing else, have some short tubes made with a bend in it so the exhaust at least goes under the floorboard. There is no weight on the pipes and you can drive it a bit to get exhaust. If you have to go more than a couple miles trailer it to be safe.
What Tom said. I'd attach the Graham headers, using the existing engine pipe, and get the exhaust shop to make another one. It doesn't matter where it goes under the car, but it needs to exit below the header. If you measure it wrong and have to bend it to get it down, so be it, its only for an hour. Its kind of like insurance - we pay it,and hope we don't use it, but its peace of mind.
H'mm must admit I hadn't thought about backfire, and she does fart some - could ruin my whole day. Angles on the outlets are pretty different. Might be easier to have the shop install the manifolds and fit the manifold heat when I get home.
Hey, I don't mean to be critical - so please dont take it that way. I had one almost go once because I didnt have any header pipes. I got excited and wanted to run my 235 and wanted to get exhaust pipes on it. So I started it up and ran it a bit. The headers are so short, that you will get a flame or 2. When I did put the pipes on to get to the exhaust shop, I could still see where it belched a flame or 2 through the header pipes. the point is, just be careful.
How far under the car would be safe to drive the car to a destination about an hour away? My 53 just has enough exhaust to get it just under the driver seat. I want to get it up to the Pistons and Paint show and I don't have the money for an exhaust at the moment. The show is about an hour away from my house. Any thoughts?
I am getting to the same point with my fresh 261 and fentons. My exhaust shop is a few blocks away, but the engine still needs breaking in and I want exhaust pipes and mufflers for that. Running the headers without any pipes may be fun for a little, but not for break-in or driving. Ever ran a 235 with 4 ft straight pipes and no mufflers over 2500 rpm on the freeway without ear protection? - Two words: Ear damage - never mind hurting the engine or not. I thought of either renting a small u-haul tow dolly for my truck or just use up a couple of free tows off my AAA service.
why not just take the headers with you and install them yourself on the street in front of the muffler shop, or in the parking lot. It only takes about 30-45 mins.
I goosed my coupe a couple of miles with nothing but Fentons to get the exhaust done... no big deal. Took side streets, rarely went over 30 mph, feathered every shift to keep back pressure down. It was fine... -ns
I install temporary flex pipes on cars until they get to the shop. You can get a complete exhaust kit for a 235 with Fentons from National Chevy Assoc, including glass/steel packs made for your car... 49-52, or 53-54 for probably the same or less than your local shop
You've got oil lines down there on that side also and without some sort of extension's past the fentons the line will get cooked. Recommend some short extensions and flex pipe to get you there. Brockman steel packs are the way to go for mufflers.
I've been in this situation a number of times. Since I know the muffler shop owner very well now, if headers or manifolds are involved, I swap them at the shop (they get there early, otherwise I'd start wrenchin before they opened). I just noticed where you were located. Was gonna suggest the same as Hellfish and mention Patrick's as another option (he offers a full stainless exhaust system), but after shipping and whatnot, it'd probably be quite expensive I'd imagine.
Just learned from another thread about a tow bar mounted to the bumper. That has to be the cheapest and best method to safely haul my coupe with my truck over short distances, if needed. Like a trip to the muffler shop, or escaping from fires here in CA.
BRILLIANT! Fortunately, the exhaust shop I used is 5 miles from my mom's, so the open manifold on country roads wasn't a big deal.
I can tell you from experience that i had trouble taking mine to the muffler shop accross town. The headers are very short and i would definately attach a little pipe before going. Its just not worth maybe having a problem.. Good luck
No offence taken. I'd considered the noise, but hadn't thought about backfire. Since I fitted a Pertronix she gives plenty of crackle back on the downshift, so I would have had a problem fer shure. Ned to dig up a timing light I guess. Getting an NCA kit was tempting as prices here can outweigh the shipping costs down under, best price round town for me is $400 with me supplying mufflers. I have heard some folks with problems fitting the NCA kits and I'm not sure about pipe routing as the gearbox is a little different on right hand drive cars.