Some of you guys have asked about how I made my front disc brake covers and I promised to do a tech post on them. Well since it's now officially tech week, I guess it's time. I looked through all the photos of my build and discovered that I didn't take any pictures while I was making the covers. So I've done a few sketches to illustrate each step. I got my front disc brake setup from Speedway Motors. They along with many other manufacturers make lots of different styles that mate stock GM calipers and rotors to early Ford spindles. The biggest difference I've noticed between all the different caliper brackets is whether the bracket mounts on the inside or the outside of the spindle. My bracket mounts to the outside of the spindle so that's what the illustrations will reflect. The brackets that mount to the inside of the spindle could also be used with a few changes to the design. First I bought a couple of 40 Ford front backing plates. I removed all the adjustment hardware, welded up all the holes and ground everything smooth. Here's a sketch of one of my caliper brackets. Three of the holes bolt to the spindle and the outer two are for the caliper. I lined up the spindle holes in the backing plates with the corresponding holes on the bracket, and then marked the backing plate where they overlapped. I then removed that material from the backing plates. Next, I welded the caliper brackets to the backing plates, and ground the welds smooth. Here's a view from the back or outside of the caliper. Using the left over material I cut off the backing plates, I made ten 1/2" x 1/2" tabs and welded five to each backing plate. Then I formed two metal bands from 16 gauge sheet metal for each side. One was 3/4" wide and the other was 2-1/4" wide. The 3/4 " bands were bent to fit around the outside of the tabs on the backing plates, and the 2-1/4" bands were bent to fit in the inside of the tabs. I made the bands in two pieces to simulate the stepped look of a brake drum. I drilled 5 holes in each band that lined up with the tabs on the backing plates. Finally, I plug welded the metal bands to the tabs on the backing plates and ground the welds smooth. This is the finished assembly. Here's a couple of shots of the covers installed on the car.
Really nice! Certainly adds to the look without being overdone. You could even drill holes or add scoops if you think cooling is an issue. The welding in your diagrams is killer too!!!
First, EXCELLENT post... Your illustrations are gorgeous... Second, I like this idea because your aren't really hiding anything like the SoCal Buick covers... Your caliper is still out there and you aren't trying to lie to anyone. It just cleans stuff up a bit.
This would work with other backing plates as well. Some Ford, GM and Dodge trucks used 12" drums up front and out back. Might save you from having to cut up a pair of old Ford plates that guys will pay good money for A bit of time with a bead roller might make you some presentable plates for doing this too. If ya got the tools, you're looking at a few bucks in material - I buy 18ga drops at something like 21 cents a pound. Looks good, and, like Ryan said, you ain't lyin' about what you're running! Almost forgot to add, the illustrations are awesome too! Tim D.
I would think chamfered (spelling?) holes in the strip that covers the disk itself would be the cat's ass. Chamfered in or out. Either one would be cool. Or, if you ran that strip through a bead roller and made a bunch of fine ribs along the circumference of the hoop, it would add some pop. (Think Auto Union Type D) For example
A similar execution with vent holes drilled, shown around 1/2 way down the first page: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91692 This version was not welded to the caliper mount, just sandwiched in between the spindle and mount. Everything still lines up OK.The original lower shoe pivot area was cut out to clear the caliper and provide cooling. A narrow band was wrapped around the backing plate and welded on then a wider one, around 1" wide, inside that to cover the edge of the disk. http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/Chevelle406/Frame/100-0003_IMG.jpg
great tech with a clean look. any room to rotate the caliper 90 degrees and put it at the bottom? I know the bleeders wont be at the higest point but they could be placed on top to bleed then mounted under, or a junk scrap could be placed in them for bleeding first.
caliper does not know where it is mounted as far as in front, behind, top or bottom of the wheel. It only matters where the bleader is in relation to getting the air out of the system.
I was thinking of doing the same thing, but i thought it would fall under the same catagory as Olds valve covers on a SBC!! JimV
Ingenious. If I were to vote for a tech week winner, this would be it. Thanks for sharing the great idea! Malcolm
The A.V.R.G Rules...thats badass Russ...I was wondering what to do about that problem on mine...love the drawings to...Thanks for a great original idea..
A mate of mine did that. He also made scoops with mesh grilles to cover the front mounted calipers, looks trick, I'll try to find pix.
I think O'briens trucking makes cast pieces that work the same but look like Buick finned drums!! Very nice. JimV
Excellent tech post. The illustrations were excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do the illustrations so we could all see how you did it.
Really slick! This is one of those posts I'll save for when I get to my sedan! Excellent tech post and drawings, I appreciate it!
Any Idea what type of front steering arms he is running?? They look like D.Factory Stainless, but dang those this are expensive!
Great sketches, and a well-written narrative. On the point of mounting the calipers at the bottom, I think there might be issues with interference with the steering arms and possibly the kingpin boss, as well as the bleeders.
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