I saw an add on e-bay for "factory throttle bore sealer" that is applied with a small paint brush, does anyone know what this material is? Thank You
I just went to E-bay, I'm going to get a bottle of this. Early GM tripower Rochester 2bbl end carbs had some rubbery type of seal where the butterflys close that sealed the end carbs when not in use, they didn't have idle circuits. Soaking them in carb cleaner ruined the seals. I learned the hard way on a J-2 Olds engine in a '46 Ford Coupe in the early 60s. After soaking and rebuilding the carbs it would never idle right again. Sold the 3x2 J-2 setup, later read about the seals. This is a repair for those type carbs. I am going to try this on some regular Rochesters I have for a Chev 3x2 setup I have, after blocking the idle circuits. Apparently you can buy as many of these kits as you want for the $22.95 buy it now price. Thanks for posting this!
I have not seen the Ebay add, but the sealer is DG213. I built up a set of Rochester carbs even had a set of butterfly plates made thicker with throttle shafts. I could not get them to seal.So i sold them on ebay. I found the 213 in Houston,but only by the barrel. It is the only to seal the end carbs, I have several sets of trips just my experince. Jobob
Mix a bit of JB Weld and acetone and paint it on. Let it set up and then crack the butterflies loose. Perfect seal.
Do you have to coat the plates with something first? Any prep work to the barrel? I've got to do something with the end carbs on the Elky and don't want to jb weld the things shut..... Any more info for a carb tard like me?
The factory NEVER used any kind of "sealer" on any tri-carb set up ..... The end carbs NEED a THICKER throttle butterfly that is CUT ON AN ANGLE to seal (as well as can be) against the throttle bores....you need the corresponding THICKER SHAFT slots on the shaft also ... you can buy these at most tri-power builders... (I really would't want my engine suckin' in any JB WELD !!!!) Getting them to seal well EVEN WITH the correct parts can be a test ....leave the screws loose that hold the butterflys onto the shaft and hold them up to LIGHT ....... adjust the butterflies until you see the SMALLEST ( NONE hopefully) amount of light around the butterflies .....tighten the butterfly screws and that is as good as it gets !!! Remember ...the RIGHT PARTS ( the carb BASE too) are VERY important for any tri-power to work correctly ....... ......... Jersey Skip
OH YEA ... DON'T FORGET to "peen over" The screws that hold the butterflies when yer done ....engines don't like them ingested either !!! make sure you have the correct "secondary return spring" on the carbs too .... it helps the seal ............. ................ jersey skip
I'm with skipperman here. When I rebuilt the Rochester 2G's on my Caddy tri power I noticed the difference in the throttle plates and cut angle to seal them better. I used the same centering process as he lists and it works great.
How do you 'peen over' the screws on these? I was gonna use threadlock, but I'm an American VTwin guy and I prolly use plenty of threadlock where it doesn't need to be used...
WOA WOA WOA!!!!!!! I happen to have in my possesion Chevrolet TRI POWER manual. It says they had sealer!!!!! When I rebuilt my 348 tri power I faxed a copy of this to a ex Chevrolet enginer that didn't know about it. He was helpfull in the proper jet selection for the carbs tho. You are right about the end throttle plates needing to be changed to the thicker ones. I see alot of guys using center carbs for end carbs with some kind of junk linkage. That upsets me. Don
If you look at the directions on a can of GM top engine cleaner, it warns against pouring it into the end carbs on a tripower; it would probably dissolve the coating.
I too have read about sealer used on factory tri power, years ago, can't remember where. Was a warning against soaking end carb bases in carb cleaner. I also remember seeing quadrajets with a black substance around the back barrels. I bought some of this stuff off e-bay. Got a small artist brush, a rubber glove and a small vial with no markings and masking tape around the lid. Not much for $22.95. Haven't used it, probably won't for a long time. When I do will post the results.