OK, I haven't landed the bigger T5 (4.3L/V8) but I do have a line on a cheap ($50) 2.8L one. My question is if I use the 2.8L for mock up, will I have a ton of things to change for the bigger one when I get it? Are they pretty much the same dimensionally? There is a method to my madness, once I'm done I'll use the 2.8L T5 in my 54 Bel Air with the stock 235. If so, I'll go for the correct bell housing and such to get the truck together and mounts made THEN I'll get the right one and swap them.
The T5 I put into my '57 Chevy truck came behind one of those little 2.8s, I didn't know there was a difference!! I knew there were "World Class" T-5s in Camaros, but I assumed all non-WC ones were the same. That makes two inquiring minds.....
i'm pretty sure its just the internals that are different, better torque/hp ratings on the "bigger" trans.
The input spline count and tip length might have subtle differences - but, AFAIK, the case dimensions (including overall length, front bolt pattern, shifter and trans-mount locations) are identical. C'ya - RAY
Thanks to all for the quick response. Looks like we'll be doing some shopping! I did know the 4.3/V8 have stronger internals so hopfully el Scotto won't have too much trouble with his in his truck.
for $50, i'd beat the piss out of it! who cares if it breaks as long as your just driving local... odds are good you'd still have a few gears to get you home anyway...
We're putting it in my kids 54 Chevy truck on an S10 frame. He turned 14 on Monday and has plans for Driver's Ed with it this fall. I suspect 12-14 months life expectancy. I did a 4 speed in a V8 Jeep in high school. Didn't make it through the first semester of college. Found out later it was the 4cyl/I6 trans not the V8 trans it was supposed to be! We'll run it!
You don't say what application you're referring to - I'm assuming Camaro (V8 reference). Dimensionally, they're all pretty much the same - shifter location & speedo location vary between models, but typically not within a model line. As mentioned, input shaft spline count & possibly diameter will vary somewhat. The best way to determine WC/NWC is by looknig at the front countershaft bearing retainer. NWC will appear as a simple welch/freeze plug, while WC will appear as two concentric rings.
It was in an S10 until Monday. Anybody know what bellhousing I should get? I've heard the one on this trans won't bolt to a V8. Will it bolt to a 235? I'm shooting for hydraulic clutch.
If it's a Non-World Class S-10 trans, it will fit the "traditional" Muncie / Saginaw Chevy bellhousing. You'll have to open up the 4 bolt holes in the flange with a 1/2" drill as they're sized for 12mm fasteners which are slightly smaller. Bob
All pre-'93 S10 are NWC. '93-94 are WC, but use Ford case. If you've got the tag # off it, I can tell you gear ratios & original application...(you can't go by application alone)
All of the S-10 T5's are "Non-World Class". Like stated above, they'll bolt to the 235 truck bellhousing, but you'll have to drill the mounting holes in the tranny out to 1/2". As for dimensions, they're all the same. Check out Inliners International's web site. They've got some good info on putting a T-5 behind a stovebolt 6. I've also found a lot of good info on a Google search.
The 235 is a CAR that I'm planning to move it to. Does this make a difference as well? Anybody know a number on the bell housing? I've got access to a '641' stamped in it.
Is that a 1/2" wrench? Do I need a name brand or can I use a generic? I note the '62 truck flywheel, what motor? I6 or V8? I've got a spare '56 rear axle that I was going to use. Didn't think about salvaging the brakes, obviously must fit OK. I also wondered about using the S10 drive shaft, I'll have to check the length. Do you have a top pic so I can see how much floor has to go?
I'm using a '57 Chevy passenger car bellhousing with an 11" flywheel. A mid-80's Chevy Astro Van clutch fits perfectly. Don't forget, you need to space the tranny 1/2 inch out from the bellhousing, and may need to hack a bit off the input bearing retainer. As far as durability goes, we'll see. I've got a heavy foot right, it's in a heavy ol' truck, but then again, it's no race car engine. I was told a T5 could handle up to 300 horsies, my 350 will be lucky if it wheezes out that much.
Ours is an old 327, 2 barrel and all. For now. We'll get Wheezie to breath eventually. He is 14 and my kid. I don't know how much tires are for it yet but I have a suspicion he'll be finding out...
T5 torque capacity varies widely by application - many of the late-model WC units found behind V8 Mustangs/F-bodys will handle that much. None of the NWC units will handle that much. It's rumored that the torque rating is an instantaneous shock loadingt rated at 80% of continuous capacity - pure word-of-mouth from a tranny-guru friend. We know they can be made to live behind relatively high-HP Mustangs as the 5.0 guys abuse them - typically 400+ HP before they start begging for mercy on a regular basis - then most guys switch to a Tremec TKO or something similar.
space the tranny out 1/2" from the bellhousing? Why not do like everybody else and just cut 1/2" off the input shaft and sleeve.
A mid-80's Chevy Astro Van clutch fits perfectly. Don't forget, you need to space the tranny 1/2 inch out from the bellhousing, and may need to hack a bit off the input bearing retainer. Think it is GMC astro van and i did not have to space or cut anythiing in my 62 chevy pu to put one in,
I will be using a RCF-4201 NAPA# Clutch disc,10" 14 spline, stock 10"preasure plate, stock fly wheel from a 56 235. Shorten the input shaft and the bearing retainer. You will also have to extend the splines on the input shaft to allow the disc to move further back on the shaft, can be done with a cut off wheel and a file to clean them up. use the stock throw out bearing and fork with linkage. S-10 drive shaft and slip yoke should be close, depending on where you locate the rear end, stock location or centered in the wheel opening.
As an inveterate transmission breaker ( three just this past year) Flat Ernie's comments are spot-on. the trans you've got is a non World-Class T5, and it will be okay behind a mild 327. If it lunches - the rebuild kit is less than $200! Just watch the 2-3 shift; if you're not bangin' WOT 2-3's, the trans will be fine for quite some time. D&D Performance ( in Wixom) are the guys to see for T-5 parts locally. If anyone needs a TREMEC 3650 - I've a shed full of them...don't ask why. It's a long story.
The T5 has a couple of built-in weaknesses that don't begin to reveal themselves until you start running a lot of power through them. One is the stock shifter - fine for normal short-shifting/granny-shifting, but if you like to powershift, or even just bang on the gears hard occasionally, do yourself & your T5 a favor & get an aftermarket shifter with positive stops. When you overshift the trans, the shift forks flex/bend/crack & this is most notable on the 2-3 shift.
Thanks to all for their help on this. The Danimalians just got back from the guy with the trans. We got the swing pedals, clutch slave cyl, PB booster & m/c, trans, steering column WITH key and steering box all for $100. The guy was real nice and let me know that he's gone through 5 S10s this past year and is most likely getting another tomorrow just for the cab. It is an X cab and he only wants the cab. I may be getting the rest for a good price! We also met another HAMBer on our way over and he just happened to have the 4.3 bell housing for a great price. Now we just need the clutch and flywheel and we'll swing Court's motor into his truck! Right after we make the modifications talked about here.
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