Frank stopped by today and showed me how to square up the rear axle. It was so simple but it never would've crossed my mind. Last time I tried this, the body was on the chassis and it was sitting on the floor. I couldn't get an accurate measurement anywhere I tried. The chassis wasn't level, and nothing was going right. Now I know everything is square and level. We figured out how to incorporate the rear radius rod mounts into some chassis bracing, and I picked up a cool shop trick as well. I really hope all the younger guys like me appreciate the old timers helping us out. It sure is a lot easier to shut up and learn than beating your head against the wall. Thanks Frank and everybody who's been helping me though this build. I'm really excited about this project again and it will be a true roller very soon!
Did ya check his pockets before he left????......if not, you might want to check under the hood of your stock car....and while we are on the subject of roundy round cars....One thing Frank didn't tell you....everything he does on chassis' will only work on cars that turn left, which might be a problem for you since you live on a one way street. Good job on the chassis, Frank is the chassis guy to learn from...and thanks again for the help on my Model A....the seats are bitchin!!!!
Frank is one of my heroes even if he is one of those GMB's!!! I wish I lived closer so I could hang out with you guys a little more. Maybe we'll get to see some of you at Goodguys Indy.You are coming to Indy are'nt you?? Hope so.
Let's see, We figured out the wheelbase and measured back from the center bolt hole of the suicide perch. In my case it was 115" and scribed a line on both sides of the rear clip. This is the front/back centerline of the rear axle. I have the frame set up at 6.5" ride height which made the bottom face of the rear clip 19.75" off the table. The overall diameter of my rear tires were 28.5" so we knew the vertical C/L of the axle was was 14.25". We added another 1.5" to make up for the rest of the axle diameter (3") Sooooo we subtracted the 15.75" from the 19.75" and made some 4" slugs out of 1"X1" and hung them from the underside of the clip in the middle of the vertical lines we scribed. Now we have the upper limit for the axle. I cut some 1"X1" spacers and welded them to the front of the vertical pieces. Finally I cut some 8" pieces of 1"X1" and welded them to the front of the spacers. The diameter of the axle is 3" There's 1.5" From the center of the first piece we welded (The one in the middle of the scribed line) to the back of the last piece I welded. This is now what limits the forward movement of the axle. So now the upward and side to side placement is locked in and centered. Now there's still 15.75" from the top of the axle to the table. I needed to make some "I's" to hold the bottom of the axle. I took 3" away for the diameter and two inches for the two horizontal pieces. I cut some 1X1 down to 10.75" then made a top and bottom around 6" long and welded them into an "I" I placed them under the upper fixture and there was 3" of opening, perfect! I goobered it all together and heaved the rearend in place. It's level and square. Plus it rotates so we can set the pinion angle. Hope this helps, look at the pics and I think you'll figure it out. Good luck, and thanks again Frank!
Actually he left me some of his tools to use No problem with the seats, it's pretty rare I have something that can help you guys out.
It looks good Scott. Glad Frank could help you. Did you give him some milk and cookies and a place to take a nap? That's usually all it takes with him
You know, Frank seems to know a thing or two about damned near everything when it comes to cars, he is a great guy, no matter what his wife and friends say.
The Jalopy Journal
