T56 6-speed transmission??? Anyone running one??

Having a hard time finding info for these. I'm looking for dimensions for the different GM model T56's (93 and up) that don't have the integrated bellhousing. I've contacted Tremec and a couple other "pros" and I can't seem to get much help. I can't find anything on the web that's really helpful either. The most important things are the input shaft length and bolt patterns for the bellhousing side. There are a few different shaft lengths apparently and I can't seem to find the bolt pattern either.

Bump for info...

 

Bttt

 

my brother has put one in his `55 Chev 210....he said when he put it in 6th it almost stalled the motor

 

Is there any updates for this transmission?? I have a 56 354 hemi that I'm dropping into a 73 duster and would love the 6th gear, plus I know where I can get one used for 1000.

Thanks

 

What do you need to know?

I had mine mounted up behind both a short bell and a long bell Chrysler Hemi...

For the short bell I used a Wilcap T5 adapter and a Chevy stamped bellhousing (stock bell interferes with the starter). The T56 used a conversion T5 plate available from various places including Summit, I believe.

For the long bell, I bought the T5 adapter plate from wilcap and it bolted right up to the T5 conversion plate on the T56 mentioned above. That is also the current configuration.

You would just need that convsion plate and the appropriate GM adapter from Wilcap. Hot Heads also carries it, but it's made by Wilcap. Might as well cut out the middle man and go right to Pat.

 

What do you want to know? I have one..

 

I forgot about this thread, its been a long time.

I have had the T-56 in my '33 coupe for over two years now. I didnt like the shifter in the stock location so I moved it up. There isnt any info on it either and I couldnt find a kit to buy so I just went for it.

I have to say, it was an excellent choice.

Im running a 392 with a Hotheads adapter, hydraulic throwout bearing and a Corvette pressure plate.

-Jason

 

Ok, so I guess what I was wondering mostly is if anyone every made a t56 direct adapter. Worse case I can just go hemi==>t5==>t56 and that should work just fine. Has anyone ever used the t56 that came from the vipers?

 

Jason,
What diff ratio are you running in that quickchange? I assume the gearbox has the 0.64 overdrive.What revs are you pulling at cruising speed?
Also what was the problem with the shifter, was it aesthetics or was it a general interference/location problem.

Muzz

 

I've got one with a seperate bellhousing/adapter (the one that cants it 15 deg towards the driver) that's going in a 'ahem' 55 Alfa Romeo in the next week or two. It's still on the deck with the motor attached for test fitting, so if you wanna come by the shop in the next week or so, you're welcome to do so and get any measurements/photos/info you need. I'm in downtown LA, so hit me with a PM if you're interested.

Cole

 

Oh, sorry-it bolted right up to a SBC, but skip the top center bolt. There is a special clutch pack from Centerforce, and you can use a standard pilot bushing or bearing. Let me know-

 

Muzz,

I'm running 372 gearing. I dont have a tach on the car yet. I moved the shifter forward so it would be closer to the dash.

-Jason

 

Hey guys I just got a great deal on a lt1 t56. It's ready to go on my project except I need the conversion flywheel to bolt up to my pre 86' 2 piece RMS 350 small block Chevy.

Does anyone have an extra laying around? I'm a buyer for the right price.

Also should I go with aluminum or steel for a street / strip model a hot rod? The steel flywheels are pretty heavy at 35 lbs!

Thanks

 

I have a 93 Camaro Z28 T56 in my '40' Ford behind a small block chevy. I used the steel "adapter" flywheel and everything else is pretty much stock, including the hydraulic clutch. I love to drive that car. Shifts easy, lots of power, and engine is just cruising along - no matter what the speed. I have another one I'm going to put in my '55' chevy. I made a shifter handle that allowed the stock bench seat to move forward another couple of inches.

 

I stuck one in a '67 Chevelle big block car, we went with mcloed 2 disc and a sfi can. It is way taller than the muncie and i had to make a boltin tunnell so you can get to all the bolts on the tranny. There isn't much difference between 5th and 6th. I didn't drive it much but got the feeling you could skip about half the gears. That clutch was sweet. Far as i was concerned i like the 4spd (but then, i like rpm) but for the cruiser 5 is plenty.

 

One thing that I think may be an issue when using a really deep overdrive is engine speed vs. load. When you look at the gear ratios, you could very easily put together a combination that would be doing little more than idle rpm while moving 70 mph. The problem that I see is that you may have a hard time getting a carb to function properly at such very low air velocity with a moderate load. i.e., the throttle might be open 20-30%, but the air velocity thru the carb is low due to low engine speed.

EFI could map those conditions easily, but getting a carb to work in that range could be a challenge. Is this a valid concern or have some of you been able to make a deep (0.50) overdrive work well with a carb?

It depends a lot on the engine set up you plan to use. If you are planning a long duration cam and open plenum intake or tunnel ram, I would err on the side of giving it a little more gear. Like someone else said, google an rpm, gear ratio, tire diameter and play around. If you plan on mild cam, single plane I wouldn't go with a final drive below 1500-1600 rpm @60 mph. If you plan on big duration single plane, I would go final drive 1800- 2100 @ 60. It is a real pain in the ass to drive something down the highway that every time you go up a grade, the motor backfires or you have to downshift to keep it from doing so.
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Some good information here. Funny, in 4 pages of posts not one word on the Viper T-56.

I have one that I had planned to use in my 37 Dodge. I modified a Lakewood steel "blow-proof" bell housing to fit the Viper mounting arrangement and my 340 small block. I bought a Centerforce clutch and LS clutch cylinder for the Chevy (since it was inexpensive and fit the T-56 splines). I picked up a RAM flywheel and was ready to go but I picked up another car so "shelved" all of these pieces. Too bad, I really wanted to have some fun with this behind the 340.

- EM

 

I have a T56 from a Camaro LT1 in my 34 Roadster. The engine is a 1st gen Chevy small block w / 1pcs rear main seal. The LT1 transmission & clutch fits right on these engines. No need for adapers and stuff.

The transmission is huge. The 3 pedals fills up the space very much. Nowhere to strech out your left foot while driving.

 

Any one see this yet? 3 mounting position for shifter... Rs 400 runs about $1399. Looks like what I need for the shifter location issues in the 37.
http://www.keislerauto.com/recent-news/keisler-t45-rs-5-speed-for-gm-ford-a-mopar-classic-cars.html

 

I am going to need the conversion flywheel. The steel ones are a hefty 35lbs and the aluminum one are less than half that. Running a 325-350 hp 350ci sbc on the street and strip should I go with the aluminum? I heard the heavy steel flywheels cut HP and throttle response.

suggestions?

 

I run the 4th gen F body T56 in anything I have that is OT, just started a 68 chevelle build that will have one. They are great transmissions, and as stated if you have a one piece rear main seal SB they bolt up with all factory 93-97 F body parts including the flywheel, clutch, and hydraulic clutch setup. The year of the trans will dictate what rear gear to use, there are two different 1993 units and the 94-97s are the same. 93 trans can use a higher rear gear, 94 ups work best with more gear because of the higher first gear ratio. I shoot for 60 MPH at 2000 RPM in 5th, dont need 6th until 70mph.


1993 3.36 2.07 1.35 1.00 0.80 0.62 (std) RPO M28 came with 2:73 gear factory
1993 2.97 2.07 1.43 1.00 0.80 0.62 (G92)RPO M29 came with 3:23 gear factory
1994+ 2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 0.74 0.50 came with 3:42 gear factory

 

does anyone have experience with the heavy steel flywheels vs the lighter aluminum alternatives?

 

Lots of good info. It seems most guys that are using a t56 with adapters are using GM t56's. I'm considering a t56 from 03-04 Cobra to bolt to my 392 Hemi.

Can anyone with experience with a t56 from a 03-04 Cobra to a 392 Hemi provide me with info on parts?? Pros & Cons. Will this have the correct input shaft? Or is this a trans to stay away from using?

In advance, Thanks.

 

An update on this one. I got plates on the car this august. The transmission works very well. The trans has 0,5 overdrive in 6th gear, rear tires are 295/50-16 and rear axle ratio is 4,09:1.
The engine is a stock 1993 Chevy small block rebuilt from TBI to Holley carb. 190 hp (for now) but still has no problems with the drivetrain ratio.

I have not changed the gear stick prosition. One thing to consider is that these transmissions have an electric reverse lockout. My solution was to put a small momentary push button on the home made gear stick. For safety, I coupled the button through a relay.

 

I've got a Richmond ROD 6speed in my fastback and it's around 2000 rpm @ 70mph. 273 rear gears Absolutely love it on the road and track with a steel flywheel but on cars I build for street and strip I would definetly go with a light aluminum flywheel with a higher RPM cam and lower rear gears. BUCKD

 

Since I had a Nash 5spd in my car I got a 6spd ROD when they first came out with a .76 6th [.82 avail also]...4.11 gear, 5th is 3000 r's at 60mph or 2280 in 6th...Small engine so never get into 6th unless going 60mph or better..Love it..I couldn't use the Long shifter though...

 

Hi! I ended up getting the aluminum conversion flywheel Fidanza sells (part 198661). It weighs 13 lbs were the stock LT1 flywheel is 20 lbs so hopefully it won't be too bad on the street. I just weighed my car and its 2100 lbs. I still have some work to do to finish it so I haven't driven it. I am running 4:56 gears with 32.5" tall tires.

With the LT1 style T56 the external slave cylinder cuts into the pedal room so doing it over again I think I would have ran the LS1 T56. However I got mine for super cheap on craigslist.