Marcus… great info. I do have some local resources to the racing scene here in PA. Road-driven cars are tough to document though. If you have pics or other handy info, by all means, post here or in the other thread I started. “Castor Fumes” is new to me. I’m sure I know a guy that may have a set…
That was probably me. I wanted something period correct, and also something different than the pie-crust Firestones I see on every car here in the US. I do like the look of them, and they ride well. Blockley was easy to work with, and shipping was fast. The cost was about the same as a set of Firestones from Coker. Probably less now with the favorable $ and rising costs as Coker.
I like ‘em. Even the 4.50 x 19’s I’m running on the front of the Coupe get warm and sticky in the wet. Confidence inducing. I ran the 5 block 16’s when I hillclimbed my old T modified. More grip than I dared use.
Just to add my $.02, Here are what "Knobbies" looked like for 18 inch wheels. In my opinion these could be run on the rear on '32 Ford wheels with smaller tires , like 4-75--18s in front. The whole idea of "biggs" in the rear was to get higher top end speed.
Funny… I’m currently considering the possibility of a 17” or 18” wheel. Those knobbies are darn cool, Tony! Here’s one of my inspiration photos from the lakes c.1935-ish. Note the different tire/wheel set in the back of the tub.
Just an illustration, thinking "back in the day" These 2 pictures are the exact same car. the first is bone stock '29 sedan. The second is the same bone stock '29 sedan, after I became the kid, (not me but I always try to be the kid who played with cars earlier than I could!) that bought the car from the back of the used car lot in say 1937. He did nothing to the car except find 2 7-00-17 rear tires and 2 6-00-17 fronts, mount them on 1934 Ford wheels, and put them on the car. (actually what I did!) What this accomplished was to go from a top speed of about 45 MPH to over 55 MPH, (as far as I pushed it), with my wife following me to check the top end! I find that trying to be the "kid" is what I love most about this thing of ours! Hope I helped a little, Ryan! PS: those tires sold here on the HAMB, both the white walls and the knobbies.
This stuff is fun, eh fellas? And that absolutely helps, Tony. Quick change before there was a quick change. Wheel and tire size is something I’m going to need to decide on soon since I’ll be doing an initial suspension height setup in the next few days.
Yes Jeff that was you. I have trouble with names at the best of times. thanks for chiming in. Cool T. I wouldn't have guessed they would be so grippy.
I told ya… not a budget buster. I think we’re going to be ok though… with a little work. I’m still learning, but what I can gather from talking with friends… Early chamber, 6:1. Looks to be 507 for a serial number. Has one water tap on top and two on the side. And… you know… that big ol’ braze. But we’re going to be ok. Everyone say it: “We’re going to be OK!” $250 shipped. We’re Going To Be O K
$250? Heck, I would have taken a chance for $250. An original Winfield 6:1 is a good as it gets for a Model A, unless you're prepared to delve into the expensive and fussy world of overheads. That's my opinion, at any rate.
It will run, will it still leak is the question. The one in my avatar cracked in the same spot. Never did anything to it and if sealed itself. If it was mine I'd leave it alone and see what happens.
At $250 shipped it was considerably cheaper than a new Snyder’s head. And, you know… a period Winfield. The repair falls under the “just add more brass” school of thought. The water taps are curious… Somehow I’ve managed to get a Winfield head and a Miller intake for this banger for not much money. Model B distributor. The Marvel carbs may be a bit out of place with Ed Winfield and Harry Miller, but that’s the plan for now. Better view of the braze. I’m slowly assembling the ‘32 front end. We’re going to build on the first chassis. It’s straight and solid and all the crossmembers are riveted in. The Phaeton chassis is all bolted together and without a motor in it… it racked. So we’re using the best bits we have on the best chassis to assemble the best possible car. Fun stuff. Thanks for the continued encouragement. I’m back to my grueling work schedule, but motivation is high.
Depends if you’re planning fenders I reckon. I run with 2 or 3 leaves removed with a stock main leaf and an B axle. Add the spares to the bottom of the pack to stop the clamps bottoming out. This is running 19” wheels that rub the fender irons on vigorously attacked corners. Smaller wheels, and no fenders and that problem goes away.
Soooo, what you're saying/suggesting is, that you're now producing "useful" work? ??? . Use what you can, when you can... Msrcus...
I hadn't paid a lot of attention to this thread before but went through the whole six pages and it looks lik you have been doing just about like my dad and his buddy Lyle Browning did/would have done in the mid 30's. Use what you need to build the car and get it to a a running and driving supe job but not spending any uneeded money on it until after it runs and drives and gets sorted out and then the upgrades can come.
Well… these are Marvels. So depending on who you ask, it may or may not be useful. Ha. We’re making the best of our time, anyway. Also getting small steps done on the front end build. Marcus = Msrcus = Ms. Ruckus.
Pay attention! High praise, indeed. Thank you! Methods and mindset are important to me and I often wonder how I’m doing on that front. I’d guess that a lot (most?) soup jobs were built from more complete cars to start with, but I’m making a go with what I can. I’ve actually not used a single power tool as of yet. Just… wrenching along!
The Jalopy Journal
