I sprayed the Lizardskin sound deadener and the insulation in my 56 Cab. It definietly took out the metal ping sound when tapping on it. Now it is just a dull thud. My question is should I, or do I need to add additional insulation to the back of the carpet, and the headliner?
I did. I have used some stuff called B-Quiet and also the stuff lobucrod sells on here. I prefer the lobucrod stuff the best.
I've used Lizardskin ever since it came out...spray inside the interior and bottom both...then add a layer of "Cool It" by Thermo Tec (available at Summit)...drag racers around here use it to kill heat...!!! Not only that but it's a lot cheaper than some of the other stuff the "hot rod stars" hawk...and I think it works better... R-
You set the bar how high or low you want it. Myself, I lean to raising it. If you want to quiet the ride, add more products designed to do so in the places you can. Think new car quiet in an old car.
I went overboard on the sound/ heat control. Sprayed Lizard Skin sound and heat coating on the bottom of the floor pan and the interior floor pan, up the firewall, interior roof panel, inside the 1/4’s, doors and the trunk panels. I then put down a layer of Hush Mat under the carpet and up the firewall. The sound of the engine/ exhaust is definitely much quieter and no heat from the drivetrain makes it into the passenger area. Worth the time and money, do it right the first time.
I'd add more insulation in addition to lizard skin. I chose not to use lizard skin, going with a combo of "dynamat type" (many brands available) and lobucrod insulation. Interesting idea is to use lizard skin or " dynamat type" on the inner skin of doors, quarters etc. Doesn't need full coverage, but a decent size piece that reduces resonance of the panel skin. If you've torn apart a late model. They have this type application, small piece applied in inner side of the outside sheetmetal. Of course OEM's apply it where needed, we have to guess
Sticky pad stuff ( eg Dynamat Extreme) adds mass to the panel and changes the resonance of said panel. Dynamat Dynapad, a thick (1/2"?) multi layer carpet underlay type stuff, kills the sound intrusion. Im not sure if Lizard Skin does both functions, or just the mass addition element, in addition to dealing with heat. Dnyapad over Lizard Skin could be interesting. Chris
Lots of products out there that apply to the inner sheet metal that add a huge advantage over having nothing. Lots of debate on which product works the best, but all accomplish a reduced amount of noise, and a better insulation value then nothing at all. Like most things, going beyond the basic insolation and sound deadening really becomes a matter of personal choice. I add the self stick non-asphalt stuff, then add carpet, door and window seals, and door panels that are not difficult and much improve the inside comfort level (wind whistles, squeaks & rattles, and water coming in when caught in a rain drive me crazy). A headliner and other interior panels (a requirement for many) also help with noise and insulation, but, my coupe has seen many years and many miles without a headliner (only has the self stick stuff inside the roof sheet metal), as of yet, I haven't reached the desire to spring for installing one. Its not "new car" quiet, but its sure better then what was left over from what the factory did all those years ago. I don't have a new car, a street rod, or a luxury car, I have an old hot rod, and I don't really care if anyone else likes my no frills interior. My car has defrost that clears the windshield fast, and adds some heat. The car is comfortable to ride in from about 40 degrees up to about the upper 80s (no AC). Its tolerable for short time frames (less then an hour) with temps 10 degrees past either end, and that works pretty well for us. The thing is, I can always go back in and add more should I feel a need to. That stuff is expensive, and time consuming, and once past the basic stuff, each added level is an experience of dimensioning returns, so find a level of comfort for yourself, and go with it.
I used it on the ceiling of my 39 after i put Kill Mat on the ceiling. I used DAP Weld Wood Landau Top and Trim adhesive Spray Grade. Bought a gallon can of it, and put it in the cheap Harbor Freight Purple spray gun. Worked perfect and at 60 Bucks a gallon from my local upholstery and foam supply it was cheaper than a bunch of spray cans. You can clean it out of the gun too, I think I used acetone to clean it out.
Does lobucrod have a website? Looking for more info, but cant find any. I was looking to use Lizard skin as well, seems really easy to apply (spray on) but if i need to stick more stuff over it, seems kind of pointless.
Lobucrod said in a recent thread, he had retired sometime back and carinsulation.com now handled the product. ((610) 751-2519 from the website)
Any luck with the website, I sent an email and never got a reply. Just had a major failure with this stuff from amazon.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085642G7M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 It will not stick to Lizardskin. They say if I use glue on the foam it will probably eat it. Lobucruds stuff loos like it is foil on both sides. Im wondering if there is somewhere else to find it.
I remember Deuce Roadster used Lizard skin in his 3 window and also used dyno-mat, the car was quiet out on the highway. HRP
I ordered from carinsulation a few years ago after finding lobucrod thru PM. Used on my roof, 3M high strength, plan to line it behind all interior panels. If you see members throwing out the recommendation to buy from lobucrod - they're at least 5 yrs behind the times.
There's a similar product to car insulation /lobucrod for roofing at home depot. I've compared the 2 and they are not the same. I've used the roofing bubble wrap double sided foil on a daily driver I could only have apart for a day.
I have some left over Dyna from a job. I'll use it in the side panels only, no way will I add it to the floors. If I make a change or have to take a seat in and out I don't want the gooey shit all over the threads. To that end, my local hardware got a stack of ¼" closed cell foam pads about 2'X4' so I grabbed a bunch. With that and carpet pad I should be nice and quiet and never worry about the goo. I've had to deal with that on occasion, not fun, mullered up threads, and yes maybe bigger holes around access points. Nope, don't want to. I used foil 2 side bubble on my roof over a nice layer of 3M Body Shutz. My headliner lanyards and listings will hold up anything that loosens over time with no marks in the headliner. Less than 1oz/sqft for wt. Even if it does lose contact I'm still heat insulated. Black car, hot summer, somehow I can't see hanging Dyna from it. Maybe I think too much.
All I've done so far is fit it, and I may use a bit of glue here n there but not the whole floor. I did glue to the 3M Body Shutz, and for reference I recommend what I call a "dry glue" process. That is to spray from a distance, let it dry a bit thru the air before it contacts. Too wet it tends to soak the solvents from the shutz (and probably others) which then acts as a release agent and the glue fails. Don't ask how I know... If you're brushing like contact cement, be conservative and spread it in thin layers vs a nice wet brush. Hope that makes sense. Trimmers do that so as not to soak thru fabrics.
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