I will cheer you on and I like your vision plus it appears it's a family project. I'll PM you, I've got a B dizzy or two so you can check that off your list
Ok… here’s my overall philosophy for this build: The goal is to build a period correct pre-WWII modified car not to show that it’s possible, but to show that it’s achievable under what will be some pretty restrictive circumstances of time, budget, and working conditions. Period correct is easy enough to define. I want to use original or reproduction parts that existed before 1942. To better define it, I’d prefer to go a bit earlier and stay pre-‘38 and create a realistic recreation of a car that could have been put together in the years leading up to WWII. “Achievable” has long been a touchstone idea for me. Stripped to its base, it means setting project parameters within your skill set, time commitment, and budget allocation so a thing actually gets done. A channeled ‘32 with a flathead is not achievable for me. But, planned and executed carefully, I believe a prewar supe job is. So, what are my advantages? I’m mechanically inclined and can wrench well. I’m a student of history and I’m uncompromising. I have an eye for design. I’m determined. And I’m a dedicated father. Where am I challenged? I’m new to early Fords. I’m not a body man. I have an extremely challenging job in terms of time and stress (more on that in a bit). I have a limited budget. I don’t have a garage, so we’re truly shade tree building this car. So… just how restrictive are some of these challenges? Damn restrictive. Not having a garage and starting a build mid-September in Pennsylvania shouldn’t need much commentary about what that’s going to be like. But not everyone building a car in the ‘30s had a garage. My job… will likely drive me to an early grave. I’ve been working 10+ hours a day, 6 days a week since August 1st. Monday starts 12-14 hour days every day until November. Then back to 60+ hour weeks until March when it’s back to 7-12s for 3 months. Somehow, we’ll build a car through this. They did back then while working in the mines and mills. What’s my budget? Not much. $5000 to get driving. Maybe another $2000 to make a nice car and hop it up some. Can it be done? I think so. Whatcha think I have in that chassis so far? Theyhad to stretch things back then too. Sheetmetal? I’m screwed. I have zero skills. I either need to pray for a good Phaeton or Touring body I can afford, make friends with someone that can help patch things up, barter for the work, or… I don’t know. We’ll figure it out. The point of it all is… I’m 43 and I’m not getting any younger. My kids are 6 and 7 and they still think Dad is cool. My wife is understanding. My job will never get easier. A garage may never get built. Extra money may never come. If not now… When?
I faced this very dilemma when we leased our present home. Had a garage, but it filled up in a hurry with...hot rod and F100 parts, then '54 Ford stuff, and some FE engines and parts. My steel shop out back was gifted, all we had to do was disassemble it. Then borrow a car trailer. (It was 120 miles North! LOL) My wife and I tore it down, brought it home (2 trips!) and stacked it up. 2 years later... a friend came over with a crew, the county was building a school next door... I hi-jacked the Superintendent to 'share' the concrete trucks, for cash... He got me the 4th one back! 9 yards wasn't enough, so the 6th one back made up the difference. Young attractive wife bolted most of the numbered sheets of steel back together... Two hop ups inside, (it's been years) One was nearly finished, then disassembled (change in plans) GOOD HUNTING! Tell everyone you are looking for a metal building. Used. Cheap.
Hmmm… worth it to do just fronts? I have time to plan and collect parts. Brakes is the November project. Because I like sitting in slush.
Definitely. They do the majority of your braking. I'm doing 32s on the front of my prewar and leaving the rear with the addition of cast iron drums. Also a "Ted's Floater kit" would be a good addition. I just wanted to say it's really cool that my old builds may have pushed you to try this and that I think your goals listed above and budget are more that reasonable. Just don't get caught up in the "gotta have it right now mentality." With a little patience and time, you'll find what you need at good prices. You just gotta be willing to hunt for it.
I run the 12" '32-34 brakes on a couple of my cars. Took a bit of adaption to fit '35 brakes on the Coupe. All with Ted's floaters. Well worth doing. Most of my builds involve scooping up other people's cast-offs...
So... This totally captures the essence of 'achievable'. There are a million little things that I'd like to incorporate into this build, but if I went after them all, the project would stall and never be accomplished. The brakes are a good example. If '32-'34 brakes are either a direct fit or a mod on the order of "grind off that tab", then we'll go for it now. Otherwise, we'll put on A brakes and 'upgrade' to '32s and floaters some weekend after the car is a driver. This mentality actually feels more 'period correct' anyway and keeps projects in front of me and Spence to keep the interest alive. Ditto suspension. Lots of options, but a T rear spring and reverse eye front seems both an authentic and achievable way to lower the car a bit. We gotta get to a driver as quickly as is reasonable, first. Achievable. That's the touchstone. If I can do this under these circumstances, pretty much anyone can. From a father with a young family to a retiree to a kid working an afterschool job. Achievable. Let's get this jalopy on the road and maybe more will follow. Achievable. That's good for the history and the future.
I applaud your vision and drive Brakes; I run mechanicals on all my A's but with Randy Gross's cast iron drums. I usually drive in excess of 10K miles a year combined in these cars.. They stop good and if they sit, no brake components to leak. The steel drums get hot, expand and the brakes go away as mentioned. If it is going to be a driver, cast iron drums regardless of how you get there. Randy promotes his 'soft' bonded brake block instead of the woven. I run both and personally, I like the woven better. It stops better. His justification is that the metallic brake block will eat the drums. Henry had the brakes set up so the rear brakes did more braking than the front Narrow tires, small contact area with the wet road surface, you don't want the rear end trying to swap places with the front end. You are a family guy, safety first. Brakes are cheap in the grand scheme of things. Re=think 'just front brakes' I'll look to see what I have for backing plates. I know I have rear complete assemblies with backing plates, the front would be another story. Wish you were closer
You are right. Always forget about those dirt roads... It's 60 back 40 front, correct? Most of the guys I talk to say set it up for modern roads, but some say it will bend the wishbone set up with more front bias.
Any reason the juice brakes shouldn't come right off and 'A' or '32 mechanicals go right back on? I think most of the adaptation for hydraulic brakes on an A is with the backing plates, yeah? We shouldn't have to "undo" anything on the car itself to go back to rods and levers and such? Short-Term Schedule Remaining September: Water Pump and Engine Electrical October... Blur. I'll be worthless... November: Brakes and Springs in the slush December: Shocks in the snow (I have none and holy cow are new repop expensive!)
There might be a spacer on the spindle? For the bearings. I'm honestly not sure... I can't imagine it's hard to go back. I am about to go ahead with 32's on my 29, so maybe I can report back.
That brings back memories. More than sixty years ago, I drove one like that, but with an angle iron and galvanized sheet metal sides and rear. In the idiom they were known as a "cuddown" southern-speak for "cut-down". The A-bone chassis would go anywhere; in extreme off-road situations it was amazing to watch the frame flex, as with the body and bumpers gone, there was not enough weight to flex the springs. Wish I had it back. jack vines
I did pretty much the same thing with my speedster. I haven't kept perfect track of it, but I think I'm under your financial targets. Lots of waiting and scrounging and patience though. For what it's worth, I currently have A brakes with cast iron drums and Ted's floaters on the front only, stock rear. Adjusted for a front bias, but no idea of any ratio. Seems to stop pretty good, though.
Hey Jack. Interesting. I’m looking at the ground clearance on this chassis from my back porch and see no reason why this wouldn’t make it down some of the state forest roads I wander looking for Brook Trout. If I lived in the PNW… say… on Vancouver Island… I’d have a Model A Tudor rigged up for chasing steelhead. Cozy nap spot in back, spey rod (bamboo) rack on the hood, gear in a trunk on the luggage rack. Truly, this chassis has grabbed me in a big way. When this stripped down Supe Job is a driver, I’m selling the Olds for a 28/29 Tudor for a 9 month daily driver. It’ll do what I need, and it’ll bring me joy while doing it. But first… a hot rod.
Right on. I haven’t seen any of your speedster updates in awhile. That this was great in an authentic “Hayseed DeLuxe” sorta way. Looked like a bunch of fun. Neighbors in their 60s walked down the road this evening. “Hey, Carol! Wanna go for a ride?!” “Hell NO! Not until it has TWO seats!”
Sunday is my last day off until November 4th and it looks like my things for the water pump and engine electricals will be here today. Hopefully we claim victory for September. October… I’ll be worthless other than planning and gathering parts for “Brakes and Springs in the Slush” November. I may not have mentioned it, but Spencer is stuck on a Phaeton or Touring so he can have Nora and Momma along on adventures. Kid has a sweet disposition. So I’m searching for a body that isn’t soul destroying and cruising the interwebs for inspiration. Something like these would do, methinks…
T touring tubs are still cheap and well within the budget. Wish you were closer. I'm about to drag home a really decent one that will be for sale.
Good brakes, good suspension, bolt down a body, and start tinkering. Eventually we'll get there! Fold it up and put it in a big envelop. I'll PM my address. I'm chatting with a fella that has a '28/'29 Phaeton in Michigan that looks fairly solid. He's had it sorta listed for many months now. Asking price is fair, but would put me slightly out of budget for a driver. Trying to see what I can work.
Ryan, don’t let the metal work psych you out. You can do a lot with a flat piece of metal, a hammer, and a welder. Model As are pretty easy cars to patch up.
Oh, I don't mind dents. Small ones I'm ok with and I'll pound out the bigger ones. I even think riveting things back together looks fun. Bolting, no sweat. But welding... That's a skill I haven't acquired. Which is strange, being the son, grandson, brother, and nephew of pipe- and steamfitters. I have some resources to pull from for small patch ups. The Phaeton body in Michigan needs the bottoms of the B pillars patched in. But I'm not in a place to do much in the way of fabricating. BTW Trevor - looks like you have a good community there and your build looks great!
Current activities: I'm going to be installing the water pump this afternoon and rewire the engine electricals tomorrow. That'll close out September with success. A running, buttoned up, stock banger in a rolling Model A chassis. October... I'll be worthless. 7 days a week, 12 hour days starts Monday and goes every day until November 4th. Before then, I want to make a good, complete list of what I need to get brakes on this chassis, track it down, and be ready to go when I have time to wrench again. So... What do I need to get good mechanical brakes on this Jalopy?
Those are 46 - 48 brakes. Since your going mechanical I would suggest doing the rears first. Use the new cast iron drums. This will give you brakes so your chassis stops. Consider a complete 32-34 front axle and brakes. This is all bolt on and will give you cast iron drums and better brakes over the stock A. Go with Flathead Ted's floaters and your all set. You will need a spacer for the wishbone and A actuators plus the 32-34 perches. This will also help lower the car. For shocks look at the delco Lovejoy shocks. They are from the time period and can be found fairly cheap, plus they bolt on.
Great advice. Thank you. To be clear... this car has nothing but the 46-48 juice brakes on it. And an 'A' pedal. Nothing. So I'm essentially building brakes from scratch. I need all the rods, cross rods, actuators, etc. I didn't anticipate what that would entail until I started looking at what it would take to backdate things to pre-WWII tech. Sheesh! An entire 32-34 axle is actually a good idea, if I can track one down... Otherwise... is this right for fronts?: All 'A' except for 32-34 brakes? 'A' spindles, actuators, king pins, etc., will all jive with the bigger cast iron drums? Love your roadster. Considering Spencer is all in on a 4-door open car, guess I should have bought that Phaeton once upon a time, eh?
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