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Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The_Cat_Of_Ages, Apr 7, 2021.

  1. I was thinking the exact same thing. The fenders on this car... they will have issues going back on if i remove them.
     
    hotrodjack33 and bobss396 like this.
  2. I skipped taking the nose off my car, I could see it taking a while to get it back on. Plus I was out of space to store anything big. But I saw little rust anywhere on the car, confidence was high since the fender vent ducts were 100% intact up by the cowl.
     
    hotrodjack33 and chryslerfan55 like this.
  3. from what ive read the 59s dont have the same cowl drain issues 57s and 58s do.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  4. You can reach around the fender and into the little open space and install the drain lines. The fenders do t have to come off. Just visualize in your head where the drain goes from cowl to fender and feel around for the hole. The stick the tubing in and clamp it off-from the inside and route the drain tubes.

    mike
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  5. I'll have to gaze at my factory manual and the body and trim manual, I have never seen evidence of cowl vents on any '59 I have seen apart.
     
  6. I have finally done something to the engine, one step closer to getting it to run.
    Ive forgotten how this is supposed to be wired... can someone who knows points help?
    20220517_153231.jpg 20220517_191857.jpg
     
    oliver westlund likes this.
  7. Fixed it, the non resistance positive was on the negative, yikes. 20220517_204718.jpg 20220517_204713.jpg
    I also replaced the battery cables.
     
  8. I would concentrate on getting just enough wired to get it running.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  9. Id rather it not catch on fire while getting it running.
     
    oliver westlund and SS327 like this.
  10. Did a little wiring since i couldnt have the air cleaner off or plugs out due to rain. 20220518_211230.jpg 20220518_211150.jpg
    Found out why the tails wouldnt work. They got unplugged somehow... I need to replace the license plate light at some point.
     
  11. Sanded the old plugs and re gapped them, they are brand new plugs, just 30 years old or so, very odd.
    Also, making brackets for the plug wires 20220519_201832.jpg 20220519_195344.jpg 20220519_191424.jpg
    Looks pretty good for me only having time, a cutter, a brake, and hammer. No past skill shaping metal.
     
    oliver westlund and SS327 like this.
  12. I might give that rear one another shot, it doesn't look right...
    photo880.jpg

    (My grommet will be tape)
     
  13. hotrodjack33
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 4,128

    hotrodjack33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just read the whole thread...very cool project, and it appears you're taking your time and doing everything right:)
    I don't have much info to add, although years ago I did rebuild a '58 Ranchero that had frontend damaged (wrecked because of rusty/collapsed front crossmember). Had to realign/straighten the frame and replace the crossmember. Replaced the nose with '57 sheetmetal because I couldn't find a good '58 for parts. 0.74.jpg
     
  14. Luckily the crossmember is perfect on this car, the radiator support has a bit of rust, nothing past fixing though.
     
    hotrodjack33 likes this.

  15. Heres a video testing the starter, would you say it sounds healthy?
     
  16. Also, keep in mind that ive only got one original metal wire holder, so im using pictures to make everything.
     
    hotrodjack33 likes this.
  17. Definitely cranks over easy with the plugs out. Guessing it will run pretty easy too at the point you are at.
     
  18. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,469

    SS327

    Nothing left to do now but fire her up! No more excuses Mr.
     
    oliver westlund and Jeff Norwell like this.
  19. I think tonight, im goint to put some gas in the carb, and see if she'll pop
     
  20. Or not, it just started pouring.
     
  21. also, something i noticed when using the starter, the points are very loud, i can audibly hear the click, is that correct?
     
  22. Deepest apologies for the terrible filming quality
     
    SS327 likes this.
  23. So, the generator is arcing to the frame when it was running, i think im going to pull it.
     
  24. I saw the arcing too. How much oil is getting to the rockers?
     
    The_Cat_Of_Ages likes this.
  25. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,469

    SS327

    Sounds good! You should be proud of yourself! Now, don’t you feel better? I know I do. Congratulations! Now if that don’t put some pep in your step to get to working on getting it driving than nothing will.
    In reading your thread I got the impression you were scared to try starting it. Maybe deep down you were afraid it would be bad or blow up or something. See nothing to be afraid of. You should be way proud of yourself pup! That’s right I called you a puppy. Because with time and learning and experience you are well on your way to being a Big Dog like us old timers! Now to hook up a gas can and fill up the radiator with antifreeze and run it for longer to see why no oil is getting to the rocker arms. Jeff Norwell should be like a god to you. He knows all about them old Fords. Ask him questions I got the feeling he is a good guy and will help you.
     
  26. The generator was a wire that was forgotten, it has the wires it needs, just one extra, might have been rewired at some point.
    There was a small amount of oil, not as much as id like, i need to prime it more...
    Jeff is practically a god to me, hes the 1957 ford guy. The radiator has a small leak, so i might run straight water for now, rather than waste anti freeze and ruin our groundwater.

    Another note, starter is off the flywheel, i had a feeling starting it would fix it.
     
    oliver westlund and SS327 like this.
  27. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,469

    SS327

    Sometimes you just have to get things moving to free them up. The more you run it will keep the oil passages filled. As long as they are getting some oil to all of the rockers and valves you are good to go. Solid lifters need less oil than hydraulic lifters do.
     
  28. So, today we will hopefully get the car back on concrete. Then up on stands, and get all 4 drums off, ive taken both rears off, and they all spin freely. I just cant figure out how to remove the fronts, maybe they are stuck?
     
  29. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,469

    SS327

    You will need to remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut and washer. The outer bearing will probably fall out at this point. Then slide off the drum. Yea, fronts are more work. Sorry.
     

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