Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Alarm installation questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 63401nailhead, May 17, 2022.

  1. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    DC7EABD5-6D0F-42B6-AEBF-10F3DFD2F7B5.png DC7EABD5-6D0F-42B6-AEBF-10F3DFD2F7B5.png Hello,

    Picked up an Avital 3100LX alarm from Amazon, made by Directed which is I’m told the same manufacturer for Viper and most other alarms, so I’m thinking the installation should be pretty generic. For my 65 F100, I’m thinking I won’t need most of these connections though.

    Tell me if this sounds right. The only connections I think I need are:
    - Brown/black to the wire going to the horns
    - white to the front and rear parking lights
    - green to door pin switches (still have to order those)
    -black to ground
    -yellow not sure what terminal on my IGN switch that needs to go to, any ideas?
    -red to constant 12v

    Am I on the right track here? For a basic installation, these are the only connections I need right? I’ve pasted the wiring diagram, so please let me know if I’m missing anything. Also any other tips would be appreciated!
     
  2. kabinenroller
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 1,072

    kabinenroller
    Member

  3. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    The thing I’m stuck on is the yellow + Ignition Input wire. Which terminal on my ignition switch should this wire he connected to? I’m guessing the IGN switch power terminal?
     
  4. Does the yellow wire power the alarm box?
    Or
    Does the yellow wire turn the alarm off when the engine is running?
     

  5. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    Not sure, the instructions are pretty vague. The only thing it says about the yellow wire is (+) Ignition Input, Zone 5.

    I don’t think it powers the alarm box because there is a separate red (+) 12 v Constant Power Input.
     
    pprather likes this.
  6. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    Also, just as a quick sanity check- the brown wire going to the horn should be connected before the horn relay, not after… right?
     
    SS327 and pprather like this.
  7. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,719

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    The yellow wire tells the alarm the ignition switch was turned on. If it's not hooked up to a 12v. that goes hot with the key, the alarm will reset itself after you disarm it. I can disarm my alarm, climb into the car, and if I don't turn the key on the alarm resets itself in 60 seconds. So you need to look at the backside of the switch, and hook it to a terminal that goes hot when the key is turned on. Or check your fuse block to see which fuses only become hot when the key is turned on and hook the yellow wire to a switched hot.
     
  8. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    Oh okay so that yellow wire can tap into any circuit that is hot when the key is on? Should that wire be fused?
     
    SS327 likes this.
  9. Any circuit that is hot when the key is on should already be fused, radio, wipers, turn signals, etc.
     
  10. This is an informative post
     
  11. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    Okay almost there! Got the red 12v constant and the yellow IGN and ground hooked up, and that’s enough to test. Seems to be working as expected, don’t have the parking light wire hooked up but it does pulse 12v on that wire when the alarm is set off.
    The brown horn wire is not putting out 12v when the alarm is going off, I expected to see it pulse 12v along with the parking lights. Right?
     
  12. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    So the brown horn wire pulses ground when the alarm is set off. Now I’m really confused. Where the heck does this wire connect to?
     
  13. I'd try connecting it to the horn relay.

    The normal steering wheel horn button completes the ground circuit when you blow the horn.
     
  14. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    Connected it to the horn switch side of the relay and it works, thanks!

    All done mostly, I’m not sure why the starter interrupt isn’t working. I ran it inline in the purple wire going to the NSS, but for some reason when the alarm is armed it will still crank when I turn the key. I’ll figure that one out later, but for now its all good! It was actually super easy when I stopped trying to use the instructions and just used common sense. Going to pick up another one of these for my 1940.
     
    pprather likes this.
  15. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 213

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from DE

    So still having an issue with the starter kill. I still have continuity across the starter kill terminals when the alarm is armed. I would expect that the circuit would be open when the alarm is armed. I’m starting to wonder if the problem is related to one of the 12v power wires- I’ve got the red wire connected to a constant 12v source, and the yellow wire tapped into a switched 12v circuit- the heater blower motor circuit if I recall.
    So now I’m wondering if the problem is that yellow wire- should that be connected to somewhere else?
     
  16. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,469

    SS327

    It should be connected to a keyed hot coming from the ignition switch. Red wire hot at all times. Are you going for no crank or no spark. If going for no crank you will need to add a relay. Hell even if going no spark add a relay. I used to install Viper and GM alarms 28 years ago when I worked for a Buick dealer.
     
  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    standard among modern aftermarket stuff is that yellow is constant power, red is switched with the key
     
  18. Gasser_Dave
    Joined: Aug 18, 2013
    Posts: 154

    Gasser_Dave
    Member
    from St. Louis

    The yellow should be ignition and hot while cranking.
     
  19. Gasser_Dave
    Joined: Aug 18, 2013
    Posts: 154

    Gasser_Dave
    Member
    from St. Louis

    If that does not work, use the orange wire to trigger a relay to disrupt the starter wire. One side goes to terminal 30 and the other side goes the 87a. That way when the alarm is not armed, your starter wire will be connected. when armed it will break the circuit. Single pole double throw relay. Use a bosch relay. 99.9% reliable
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.