One thing you may want to consider before you change it back to progressive linkage is that unless you are really into the throttle the fuel in the front carb will get "old" from non use. @carbking has been known to suggest people hook their 2 four barrel setups with strait linkage for that reason, and a more even fuel distribution to all cylinders
Ever have one of those days? I started on the main harness this morning carefully following the wiring diagram. It was found i have the wrong regulator. The battery and field wire were flipped. I pulled the cover to verify it. Moving down the harness i had nothing to connect the headlights. The kit was ordered with them yet the package said i needed to order them to complete the harness. The part number on the package doesnt match the numbers in the catalog. I waited to talk to someone at corvette city for 20 min utes on hold. It looks like im going to have to pull the seats to fit under the dash to get at everything. Then after over two hours on the phone calling every Chevelle parts dealer looking for seat covers. They all said they expect to have more next February. I dont give up easy. I did finally find a set. Im in need of the attatching point for the black wire with a white tracer. It comes out of the main harness at the same location as the brake switch wires. It looks like its a ground wire im just not sure where it goes. I also need the coil mounting location. The bracket i have has two ears on it. Its bolted to the manifold with one bolt. It doesnt look correct. Either i have the wrong bracket or its in the wrong place. Nothing but frustration today.
I use my cars as intended. The gas in the front carb wont get stale. A unsactioned acceleration trial every now and then is a good way to make sure everything is working correctly in case of a emergency. At least thats what i will tell the cop.
I'm not completely sure, but doesn't the coil clamp to the bowl of the distributor, with a figure 8 pinch type bracket? I'll see if I can find a pic to post... Like this one...
I have a diagram thats not the problem. It doesn't say were it goes. It just shows it going to a ground. If thats the case i could put it anywhere it will reach. I want it to go to the location its supposed to go to. in the latest pics that have been posted the ones aboit the linkage the black wire with the tracer can be seen. what cant be seen is where it attatches. its a long wire it can go about anywhere. it looks like it goes behind the distributor to the passenger side somewhere. the restoration book i have doesnt show the detail either.
On the mid-year Corvettes it has a ground on one of the starter mounting bolts. That wire is solid black I believe, I will look and see if it has a tracer. What size is the eyelet on the wire?
I was pmd the info. it goes to the drivers side valve cover. thanks everyone. while this car is not being fully restored as I do work on it I want it going back together correctly. it will all get there some day down the road after I finish a few other projects..
The deed is done. I think it looks ok. Better than all the black spots. The car as mentioned is tree colors of white do to crashes and repaints not to mention age. I will buff the fenders with fine compound to help blend it in better. The hood was scanned at our local paint shop. This info was put into the computer to come up with a paint code.
I did something similar last week, but used my old Sikkens color map books to find the color as best I could for a faded hood repaint match. Mine isn’t perfect either, but close. Looks good!
I have done this to a few white tops…lay a black throw over the top while it’s out in the sun. It will absorb more of the suns heat.
So how did the top stretching go? I've always had decent luck by attaching the back clamps down and then letting the front sink down slowly. Your results may vary! Nothing to get in a hurry about at any rate.
You know, that does seem like it would give you a bit more mechanical advantage that way. That's using the ol' noodle righ there!
I have been told this is not a one day process. I had the weight on the rear for day one. This weekend i will reverse it and put weight on the front section. I plan on alternating back and fourth until its done. Im in need of four american five spokes 15x6 if anyone has a set.
Well, it took a lot longer for it to get outta shape. Mother nature has her own ways,Your results may vary. LOL
Getting it wet will not help. I had a similar problem with a T-bird top. Put a small electric space heater in the car on a plywood "shelf" to protect the seats. It softened up the material enough to allow latching it down. After the heater was taken out I let it set for a day in the shop. Worked perfect after that with no "re-shrinking". I did put it up and latched it after every topless run.
The Jalopy Journal
