The pump I'm using is a hex drive not tang but with either pump its probably best to keep the run out to a minimum. I'm not sure where I got the 5 thou figure from, I will double check, got a couple of Hilborn and fuel injection books.
Great info, I like the collar idea could be used as the timing cover is fitted , just incase theirs a little bit of movement in the cover.
The collar got me thinking. The timing covers on the Holden motors are a very sloppy fit. They already have one hole in them, for the crank harmonic balancer lip seal. To get that seal centrered, the cover/seal assembly is loosely bolted up, and a sleeve put over the crank snout in lieu of the balancer. The sleeve centres the cover/seal, which is then tightened up. Remove the sleeve, install the balancer. That amount of freedom in cover location might make getting 0.015” runout a challenge.
Old Clark forklifts with Holden grey engines had a cast front timing cover that had the hydraulic drive running off the cam gear I think. Harv you might try forklift repair places to see if they have any old ones laying around or cast one up.
I managed to get hold of an ally cast timing cover from one of the humpy guys… no way the tin one would hold up a pump. It’s off a boat, with a long crank snout casting to suit the sliding dog clutch arrangement. The holes in it to mount to the block are oversize, like the tin ones, so it will need the aligning tool too. Mental picture is to use the cam tunnel (with an old cam/sharp pointer tapped into the end) to mark the cover. Drill hole in cover for pump tang drive. Drill and tap mounting studs into cover for pump with the funky Hilborn 3-stud pattern. Use an o-ring to seal pump to cover. Use harmonic balancer sleeve plus custom collar to 2-point locate the timing cover before snugging and it down. cheers, Harv cheers, Harv
Made some good progress on the engine this weekend, cranks in, cams in, Pistons are in and valves are all laped ready to go in just waiting on keepers to arive next week, someone... I forgot to order them This is whats going in there, looks like Christmas all stacked up on my trolley. My litle set up for sizing and fitting rings. This litle tool comes in well handy its a Hall valve depth gauge designed for working out what lenght to grind the vales when using solid lifters, I'm using adjustable lifters and this makes quick work of setting them all to correct clearence before the valves go in.
Looking forward to your start up video. just over four weeks to go......SOOOO how's your stress level? This is one very inspiring build !!! JW
Stress levels somewhere between sleepless nights and blind panic, only kidding, I hope to get it ready to race this year It wont be finished but gonna try my best to have it ready to race.
I forgot just how tiny flathead rods are... It's still amazing how much power they can make and not fail.
Easter weekend..time out from work..time for more tank building.. Ive been working on my water pumps this week in the evenings couple of hours each night turning up new pulleys that will work with the supercharger set up. Got a couple of rebuild kits and got busy with the press. Each pulley took about three hours this is about an hour in. Gave the pumps a clean and lick of paint then pressed them all back together. Made progress with engine assembely this afternoon, got all the vales fitted. I'm using Manley Chevy valves, there very nice valves like peices of jewellery, but about 1/4" longer than standard flathead valves so I was having problems with getting my spring height right. First ideas was to use 8BA retainers with rotators but this made the spring to compressed, so I tried standard retainers with some offset keepers, that didnt work so decided it was either shim the springs lots or put the valves in the lathe and cut new keeper groves. I went with cutting new groves and it all went together nicely just the odd shim on a coulpe of valves where I'd needed to cut the seats a litle deeper to clean them up.
Didn't need to cut them down as I'm using adjustable lifters. Adjusters need to be wound most of the way in.
Good work Jamie. A couple of comments, but it sounds like you have it sorted. On my French motor with Chevy valves I used the French rotators but was able to shorten the intermediate piece. That got me the valve spring length I wanted. It was pointed out that the rotator keepers are not the recommended option for all out race motors due to the increased weight over other types. Re the lifters being wound all the way in, be careful and make sure the lifter is not losing tightness on the screw. If the crushed part of the thread is too far in it goes loose again. Your results may vary. I seem to remember shortening my valves to get the adjuster back towards the mid range. Mart.
Hi Mart, I would have picked your brains if I'd realized you'd done the Chevy valve thing. Adjusters seemed to still have reasonable torque when wound in but I put some loctite on the threads just to be on the safe side.
Few more jobs finished on the engine. Checking the valve lift A bit to much lift for the 8BA heads I'm using, so time for a bit of milling. And finaly a bit of a blend, nothing overly fancy just a quick blend with the die grinder and some sanding cones. Heads have gone on, sump on, flywheel on almost ready to go in the chassis just a quick lick of paint first. Suprise suprise i've painted it black, it seams to be my default colour "if in doubt paint it black" Just over three weeks till Pendine, might just have the tank ready in time...fingers crossed
Got the engine in this weekend, thanks to Geoff and Steve for lending a hand, spent most of yesterday making a hold down clamp for the magneto and making up a set of cloth covered plug leads, I wasnt sure if the red might look a bit blingy but very pleased with the look. Did all the wiring today and fired up the engine for the first time. only a quick 20 second run as Ive not got coolant pipes all plumbed yet. Very nice to here it run especialy with Pendine getting imminently close. Hopefully get all the coolant system finished and bleed the brakes this week and then I can do the cam break in and have a spin around the car park, I will do a video as soon as its all plumbed. Ive borrowed the intake off my coupe to do the break-in, hoping to get the supercharger fitted for Pendine but if I run out of time the slingshot manifold can stay on.
Very cool and was thinking you may be pushing it to get the blower on and dialed in. Good call on the carbs just in case. You will make it!! JW
Been working all hour on the tank last couple of weeks, here's a couple of photos from last weekend. Do you think fuel tank will pass safety inspection? only kidding, been working on the fuel tank plumbing this evening . Putting the bottom half of the fuel tank on..my old beater of a forklift comes in well handy. Planing a test and tune day tomorrow, and get the top half of the body fitted.
It's comforting to know you'll be a heck of a lot safer in yours than most of the belly tank drivers back in the day. Really looking forward to watching you run on the beach..
Looking forward to seeing this a t Pendine this weekend - I even managed to get a caravan booked ! No pit passes though so it will be viewed through a wire fence but hey ho thats the rules.
The Jalopy Journal
