While I was setting up the next block, I took a couple of pics of the line up bolts I machined to help locate and stabilize the block on the mill table.
The t-slots are the best way to keep something square. I'm a bug about keeping mine clean and not gouged up.
Is block flat on table? Guide bolt end looks like sitting on bearing web/rail surface while other end looks like hanging off table resting on bearing cap surface.
I have a pair of parraelles under the main cap parting line. I do a skim cut on the china walls. When I flip it to do the 4- bolt conversion it helps keep the main saddles even with the table.
Ah roll bar time. I guy I know has a PU Truck with a big blown BBC engine. He had a roll bar put in and the back down tubes are bolted together where they go through the roof above the rear window, flange on each side of sheet metal. Fabricator claimed its good for 8.5 cert [not that he is ever going to run it] but I am curious if it really is?
Thank you. The 9.3” parts are MUCH more expensive, most certainly. I’m using a 9.3” in my early 60’s inspired’34 Ford coupe project. I bought my parts from FabCraft. They are great to deal with, but these low volume parts are expensive. If I remember correctly, a pair of axles/bearings/seals/studs/retaining plated were around $700. But, that’s what I wanted. Yes, it’s way overkill for a SBC 283(bored to 301) & Borg Warner T10 4 speed.
I understand the cut in the timing gear area but why the cut in the valley? I’m not at all familiar with the later Olds engines, just curious. Nice work your chassis guy is doing with the roll bar.
When running a roller cam, the injector boss in the lifter valley interferes with the link bar on number 1 cyl. If a flat tappet cam is used, there would be no need to machine it out.
“Update from the chassis shop” is kinda like saying “took my car to a pretty good garage in Daytona”! Wish I woulda taken him up on his offer to see his shop last year. And I really wish I was able to have my cage done by him.
I was glad they took in my job,, it's hard for me to crawl around inside a car now. Very pleased with the job! Wished I was still able to do it all myself, but age gets us all. Some sooner than others.
I appreciate you explaining all of the work to convert the block to gasoline. I am considering converting my 350 D block so it's great to see what it really takes.
You are welcome,,, waiting on the main caps now. When I get them, I'll post about the main web machining and drilling. A lot of what I'm doing for this engine could be deleted for a simple street build.
Friends stopped by with one of their CNC front caps for the diesel Olds. Nice piece! We test fit it on a block. Just a couple of small changes need to be made. Then I will be seeing a full set at my front door!
I am fortunate,, I have a lot of friends with talents that want to be a part of this project! I am more than happy to let them show off what they can do!!
Looks like everything you've built should stand up to FULL throttle...side stepp'in power shifts....7 grand RPM launches..no problem!! Talk about super duty (Oldsmobile-style) Put that puppy on a serious diet and you'll be a contender fer sure!! Whew!!!!! 6sally6
Not totally satisfied with the drag link angles, but I think for straight line I think it will work....still need to get weight on the springs to get the axle in line with the axle...wished I would have studied up on this more before mounting the box!!! Live and learn! This is my 1st straight axle car!
The Jalopy Journal
