Technical DeSoto Temp Gauge question

I am thinking about installing 1953 DeSoto gauges in my 1930 coupe. When I bought the gauges I noticed that the tube from the head to the back of the temperature gauge was cut off just behind the gauge.


You can see the back of the gauge here:

My question is are there replacement parts available to restore this gauge or do I have to find a complete gauge and sender? I notice that most complete DeSoto temp gauges are over $200 online. If I need to find a complete gauge setup are there any alternatives that could work. Thanks in advance for any help.
Tony

 

The tube contains a fluid which expands and contracts with the temperature of the engine. The pressure in the tube makes the gauge move. If the tube is cut off the fluid is lost and the gauge is no good. Sorry about that.Try searching the web for early Chrysler products collector sites. Also post an ad in the "wanted" section here.

 

There are guys listed in Hemmings that fix them..

 

some guys do it themselves, they get another cheap new gauge, and cut off the tube and solder it to the old gauge. You need to have the correct amount of ether in it, and there are other concerns. If you want to do some searching, google might help you find a how to.

 

Thanks for the quick response guys even if the news wasn't what I was hoping for. I might just leave the gauge dead in the dash and go with a temp gauge under the dash.

 

Well...at least now you know what to look at, when you buy used gauges

 

I tried soldering a new tube on a broke 47 Plymouth gauge one time. I didn't think I'd ever get it soldered up or that it would read right, but figured I'd try just for fun. Much to my surprise I actually got it soldered up good but instead of testing it in hot water like a smart person I thought I could fan a flame close to the bulb just to see if it worked at all. Got a little too close and blew the bulb up. I tell myself it wouldn't of read right anyways.

 

Have you considered adapting your faceplate to a new or working gauge? The faceplate is square but the gauge behind it is round. Maybe compare it to some other gauges like S-W and see if they would match. Maybe the basic gauge was used with more than one kind of faceplate? Longshot but better than paying the big bucks if it works. I'm sure somebody like Classic Instruments could repair but that's another expensive route.

 

Leave the Desoto gauge in the instrument cluster, and put a new gauge under the dash. The Desoto gauge doesn't have any numbers, so you would still be guessing on the actual temp the motor is running at. Might look pretty, but doesn't really tell you anything.

 

Actually, gauges without numbers can tell you a lot, once you get to know the car. The 59 Chevy truck I have will want to boil if it gets to the end of the line on the hot end of the scale...if it's below that, I'm ok, but I do what I can to keep it near the middle of the scale. That's far more informative than having no gage.

 

Find an electric temp gauge off some other car that will fit nice in the hole in the cluster and adapt it to fit.

 

As far as no numbers on the Temp gauge, most Mopars that use the mechanical temp gauge will have numbers printed on the glass that the temp unit sits behind........also its quite common for the same basic Mopar gauge to be used in all mopars for a number of years with just a different face plate attached......see the two screws holding the face plate onto the actual gauge........a more common Plymouth or Dodge gauge might be available, cheaper and be able to be swapped in..........andyd

 

Thanks again guys, I think I'll keep the dead gauge in the cluster and run a gauge under the dash (or hide it somewhere). I have one complete with sender that I used for mock-up, that fits the head of my 8BA flathead perfectly.

 

Rather than a dead gauge it is not too difficult to adapt a later movement to the original face and dash. I have used Autometer Mini gauges for donors and later model MoPars with success. The other alternative is have a gauge restorer re-tube it to fit your engine. I am not a fan of tacked-on gauges especially if someone goes to the effort to use a period style dash. And there is the NOS one on ebay.

 

Here is a how too I found on the web a long time ago. I have never tried it myself.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

There are 1953 Firedome Desoto dashes on the auction site now. There might be a complete working temp gauge amongst them and possibly cheaper than a rebuild. Very cool looking gauges.

 

Can someone tell me what the stem on the back of the 53 Desoto speedometer is used for? It is shown to the upper right of the center cable connection. Thanks, Tony

 

might be for lubrication?

 

Abbott Instrument Restoration in Portland, Or does an excellent job. The only problem being he isn't cheap or fast. He restored the 50 Ford gauge cluster I used in my Model A.
www.abbottinstrumentrestoration.com

 

Here's another view, it looks like it takes a screwdriver or can be turned in some fashion. I thought it might be for adjusting the speedometer or ?

 

I to am curious what that is for.

 

As squirrel said it is for lubrication of the magnet shaft. If the speedometer needle continues to bounce at lower speeds (35 and below) it's usually cable (35 mph and above) needle bounce means the jewel is dry or worn and the speedometer will need to be repaired.

 

Thanks el956v, so I assume you unscrew the stem and apply lube to the 'jewel'? Do you know where I can find a replacement stem? Mine was missing from my speedometer when I purchased it.

 

I have one I can mail to you for the cost of shipping in a USPS bubbleope. It will let you oil the magnet shaft not the magnet jewel.
PM me an address and I’ll get it to you.

 

On its way tomorrow

 

Thank you so much e1956v...true HAMB generosity.

 

I had good luck fixing an old temp gauge. Just bought a cheap one, put the tube in ice water, cut the line near the gauge, and soldered a sleeve to the old gauge. I checked the temp, and it was close enough.

 

Dry Ice works better for keeping the ether in the bulb.

 

Oh yeah, and make sure to use an electric soldering iron. You definitely don’t want flames around that stuff. I think the whole thing cost me $20 and about an hour of time.