Technical ***January 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Bring it on 2022***

many thanks for the links! @spendingtheirinheritance

 

Checking in for twenty two too. Colder than a well-digger's blasthole (-9°) this new year's so no cruising. Was given another 4 banger project tho:

 

Nice '28 engine

 

Great start for one of the other bangers!

 

Another year...Another racing season! I'll participate as a Volunteer Driving Instructor this month (22nd & 23rd) at Vintage Auto Racing Assoc. (VARA) Univ. of VARA at Buttonwillow Raceway. It's a school for driver's seeking, not only Competition Licenses'; but how to drive their performance street cars. We'll go to Sonoma Raceway on April to race. Back to Buttonwillow in May to race. We are gathering the planning committee to put on the "Banger" time trials (formerly F.A.S.T.) on a possible date in June at the historic Santa Margarita Ranch. In August we plan to go to Laguna Seca's vintage car races (if invited). Then back to Laguna Seca for the Velocity Invitational.
(photo by Dani McEachern)

 

Folks need some help identifying some banger adapters I have. They fit the Holly/Stromberg carb, but no idea what manifold they are for.

 

Those are universal Stromberg to 2 bolt adapters...

 

Slowly getting there

 

Got my Burtz block kits yesterday.


.

 

a much awaited delivery of some prime hot rod material @Crazydaddyo

Enjoy the fruits of your patience.

 

Happy '22 all.

@Crazydaddyo - congrats! I'd love to see more as things progress.

 

checking in been working pretty steady on this pile. Found another A engine on market place looks pretty good inside.@brjnelson stopped by and teased me by letting me try on this funny looking carb for size CH=full]5278859[/ATTACH]

 

I got a shipping notification.
I ran off all the help in September and closed the business so had to make alternative shipping arrangements.
I won't see the stuff until I get back in March.
Looks like a pretty packaging job for sure.
Interested in seeing what's inside and how it goes together...let us know

 

Only thing funny lookin bout that carb... is that there’s only 1!

 

And it's not all shiny 'n stuff

 

It was too big for you anyway

 

Watch out for that early 28 crankshaft, it might ruin your day sometime.

 

Eeeewwww!!! Never a good thing!

I wonder... a common reason for T and A crank failure at the journal radius is a regrind with undersized corner radius...?

 

Could be rod bearing failure, seeing as it appears babbit melted and came out of the dipper, rod seized on the crank?
But I could be wrong. rod bearing failure I experienced resulted in rod bearing completely wiped out and rotating assembly surviving during the short time that the motor ran as I stopped as soon as I heard the knocking.

 

Why do you think it’s early 28 crank ? Motor number comes back as mid 29 and the guy claimed it was all original parts when rebuild

 

Crank webs have the characteristic “beaver tail” or diamond shape. Later production had rectangular webs

 

Thanks Kevin so somebody must have just went in there parts bin and pieced a motor together
My plan was to get things running with this and build another motor from parts I have around.

 

The fillet radius is a possibility, but if you think about it, on a .040 under crank you only have .020 potential radius to grind in. Even if you had .060 radius on the wheel, you still leave a stress riser.
On some of the cranks we have built, the fillet is .125 and that causes other clearance issues.
That picture shows a welded on counterweight, I would bet it broke just due to the crank being too small and over revved. Also the break is not on #4, that is where most will break trying to transmit all the power to flywheel end.
John

 

Thanks for that link Spendy, nice pics and descriptions and I learned a lot ..

 

The fillet radii of that crankshaft may have been a contributing factor, but there were other forces at work also. The week before it broke I had run my roadster pickup at the Northwood, IA F.A.S.T. hill climb, so there may be some small truth to the statement about over-revving. I freely admit to revving it as far as it would go in 1/10th mile (smiley-face). But also I had been noticing, mostly while cruising at 55+ mph a tendency for the engine to feel like it was surging or fighting with itself. After I also broke the successor to the pictured crankshaft a year later, again a week or so after the F.A.S.T. meet, I finally learned about symptoms of too much spark advance with high compression heads, and now believe that was the primary reason for the breakage. I had my distributor set up for 32 degrees of total advance and in retrospect think that my skinny Model A crankshafts were being twisted to the point of failure. The replacement crank that subsequently broke was 0.020 under on both rods and mains and had been carefully prepped and ground, and had been magnafluxed and straightened after counterweights were welded on. I was really disappointed with the longevity of that crank because I had expended quite a bit of effort to find a good core and it was prepped pretty carefully.

Fast forward (no pun intended) the next step involved a Burlington crankshaft, McEachern steel main caps, Skokie forged rods. inserts and pressure oil to the mains. Still taking the abuse nine years later. Most importantly the distributor now has a stop at 24 degrees of advance and there has been no sign of the surge or fighting itself that was apparent before the advance was limited. I hope this explanation helps someone else starting out to avoid my experience.

For 4bangerbob, I just finished a mild build for the 30 Coupe in my avatar. The rods from the picture in the post with the broken crank are now at work in that motor. What may have looked like melted babbit is where the stub of the broken crank dinged up the thrust face on the side of the rod. A lot of time went into weight-matching those rods, so I thought I might as well try to use them. They have also gone down the track in Northwood in 2020.

 

Thanks for the explanation and you are exactly correct, timing can just destroy a motor, among other equipment.
I broke a couple driveshafts out of the engine dyno learning that. The combustion chamber shape directly contributes to the efficiency and correspondingly the timing required is a good indictor.

John

 

Agree 100% on chamber design; I am running a repro Winfield with the crow's foot chamber. Seems to do a good job creating turbulence and combustion efficiency.

 

Got my Secrets of Speed Society magazine and saw this ad.

 

Hey Miles, How well does the new build start below freezing??
I have some extra tire studs, find some rubber and we can set you up to ICE RACE!
POLAR DEVILS BABY!
OR be a tough guy and bring the roadster pkup.

https://www.polardevils.com/

 

I follow your logic, and it makes sense... but only if you start with a perfectly sharp corner. The factory grind is somewhere between .062” and .125” radius, and a regrind of any undersize can easily reproduce an equivalent corner radius without a stress riser

Over revving, detonation, imbalance, and harmonics couldn’t have helped the situation either...