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Hot Rods 57 FORD Build #2... Glutton for Punishment.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Norwell, Oct 20, 2021.

  1. there is a difference in pedal styles?
     
    Deuces and Stogy like this.
  2. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    Just in how the pedal is connected to the linkage…
    Reproduction pedals are the late style.
     
    chryslerfan55, enloe, Stogy and 6 others like this.
  3. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
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    Looking good Jeff. If you wanna come west for a little Christmas adventure, my floor pans are coming up after I deal with the rockers and rest of the 4 door conversion... Might be good for you to touch some CHEVY sheet metal... :D
     
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  4. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
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    Jeff Norwell
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    …..AND turn into a Pillar of Salt?!?!
    No Thanks!… hahaha
     
  5. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    well sounds like we're gonna have to set up a grudge match race with our two "tri fives" like the old factory experimental manufacturer wars! Old school racing, no electronics, real 1/4 mile action, flag start. i win you gotta wear a Chevy shirt, you win I'll wear a Ford shirt. Just let me know what size shirt you wear ahead of time... :p
     
  6. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,690

    RmK57
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    Sounds like fun, I'd like to be part of that deal!
     
  7. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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  8. Great progress, Jeff!
    Yes, Ford outsold Chevy in '57. Yes, '57 Fords are hard to find, and Yes....that's EXACTLY why we like them!!
    Your possible race with that Chevy guy from BC.........you're probably about the same distance as him from Texas. A real race would be to see who could make it here the fastest......or even make it here for that matter. You know who my money's gonna be on.
    Rich
     
  9. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    Well.. pushing forward... seam sealed, painted and letting areas dry.... cleaned up the surface rusted firewall.... need to do the roof area(inside the car), back end,... but I want to move onto the front suspension.. need a change....
    I will be using 3/8 Jute for an under carpet.
    After the front end stuff is in... tackle the steering, drop in the engine and trans, run brake and fuel lines..... need to get a master.... and start wiring.



    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
     
  10. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,243

    DDDenny
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    from oregon

    Nice work on the floor Jeff.
     
  11. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
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    Jeff Norwell
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    Thanks DDDenny.
     
  12. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
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    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm impressed !!!!
    You have skills !!!!!!
     
  13. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,690

    RmK57
    Member

    Is it going to be two toned white and black or just all white?
     
  14. Show off….getting stuff done.:D
     
  15. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
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    Jeff Norwell
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    Hahaha
     
  16. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    The white in the interior will be completely covered by fresh carpet, insulation and such… just did it that way because for me… way easier to wire… easier to see.Plus… I had a ton of it on hand.
    The firewall was completely covered in burnt surface rust… just cleaner now…
    Not touching the black and white factory paint… whatsoever… can’t justify the time nor the cost…
    As they say… it’s only old once.
     
    chryslerfan55, Tman, Deuces and 10 others like this.
  17. Jeff, the 3/8 jute backing is what I used. I found some with the aluminum facing. The trick to getting it to conform is to carefully strip the aluminum facing from the jute, and adhere separately. The jute will be much more accommodating, particularly in the rear footwells. I'm assuming a glue-down here? Weldwood contact cement in a cheap (Harbor freight) spray gun ( w/2.0 tip), thinned with about 10% acetone for sprayability, works great. The glue can be left in the spraygun for a week or so with no ill effects, but I did run some acetone thru the nozzle when done for the day. Glue the aluminum facing down after the jute is finished.
    Make sure all your wiring is done before you lay that jute down.......and I might suggest an extra heavy gauge wire back to the trunk area to feed a power distribution box for those "afterthoughts". The underlayment in the forground is just the 1/8" rubber/alum. ............on the farside of the wiring (on the top of tunnel) is the 3/8 jute. Made a nice channel for the wiring. note how well the 3/8 jute w/ foil conforms to the passenger side footwell area.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
  18. One other tip, Jeff, while you're doing the insulation. I have no heat issues from the floor at all. The double inside insulation, combined with an undercoating on the bottom side, did the trick. Where I do have heat coming into the cab, believe it or not, is from the cowl! I never insulated the cabin side of the cowl, and there is heat buildup as my 4.6 dohc generates a lot of external heat, and eventually gets the air inside the cowl hot. On a hot day there is a big current of hot air eminating from under the dash. If I had it to do over, I'd also run the foil faced rubber insulation on the cabin side of the cowl.
    Jeff.....moderator....., lol, feel free to modify my engine designation. I only included it indicate your drivetrain may not have this issue.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
  19. I had my entire interior OUT, made things easier. Cleaned up the floor, primed it with Duplicolor primer, followed by a quart of their white lacquer. I did the firewall under the hood with something in a spray can I got from my paint supplier.

    I went with Fat Mat on the floor, 1/2 the $$ of Dynamat and much more flexible. I made the trunk separator from some nice 3/16" sanded cabinet plywood.
    521-003-seat.jpg 521-005.JPG
     
  20. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    @Texas57 @bobss396 ...Great stuff guys!.. and thank you....
    I (so far) used up what was left of the Dynamat from the other 57.... I am looking into the product Kilmat..... Much cheaper than Dynamat.
    Thanks for the tips!
     
  21. Jeff, I believe it was kilmat I used in my pickup, made a massive difference and I don’t have carpet or a headliner in it yet.
     
  22. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    I think I am leaning that way Lane!
     
  23. @Texas57 , I hear you on the cowl heat. I didn't go all the way up the firewall on my 47, and can feel the hot air, on the wrong days. I will be re-doing some interior items this spring, and will be addressing the firewall top/cowl area at that time.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2021
    Jeff Norwell and loudbang like this.
  24. I found a under-dash firewall pad, looks like the factory piece. I got it on eBay and was around $75. I still have to do one door seal and that's where I get heat from the engine compartment creeping in.
     
  25. gonna do a heater delete/ blower delete as well? and are you going to keep the vacuum wipers?
     
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  26. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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  27. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,842

    Jeff Norwell
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    Im going to run a full factory heater on this car..... but no vacuum wipers... I most likely use a Newport unit or a possible 57 chevy unit I have....
    I have never had any success with vacuum wipers.....
     
  28. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
    Posts: 7,352

    corncobcoupe
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    Keep going Brotha Mod....
    Good reading.
     
    Stogy, loudbang, Thor1 and 1 other person like this.

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