Technical The Allure of the Quick-Change Rear End.

Marty, I used a 5.57 ratio R&P in an old split housing Ford 3/4 ton rear axle. I took it out of a heavy duty Stude step van, fit perfectly. Greg

 

Thanks. I'll pm you tomorrow regarding these setups. If you have a setup like that I will be very interested in learning more about it for a future project.

 

My grandson likes his!

 

‘32 Roadster

 

@alfin32,
That rear cover is kinda special. When Halibrand moved from Culver City to Torrance, some covers were cast with the "Torrance City" markings. Later versions were changed to "Torrance", which is correct as Torrance was not a city at that time. Don't know if it ever was.

 

Was it a quickchange ? I don't think you can cut 10 splines, into an original pinion shaft, that was setup for a yolk. The only commercial quickchange ratios I have seen, are 4.11 and 4.86, with the exception of Winters Xtremeliner, that is available with higher ratios for Land Speed use. My Brother's OT T-Bird has one with 3.00 R&P.

 

Marty, The 3/4 rear end was not a quick change, nor did I make it into a QC. It was simply a split hsg Ford with an open drive shaft. The Stude hsg was basicly identical. The 5.57 ratio was ideal for my 57 Ford, 406 engine, running on a 1/2 mile dirt oval. Greg

 

Greg, that was the Timken axle, used by Ford and Studebaker. I bet that '57 was quite a ride with a 406 ! 15 years ago, we ran a '39 Merc coupe with a 351, on a 'small quarter mile dirt, and ran a 7.33 gear.

 

Here's the Winters heavy-duty qc under the whatever project. Yeah overkill, but it's what I have.

 

i had to have one....lol... putting it under a 34 pickup

 

Nice...

 

G'day
I have a 301 Halibrand that needs a lot of work - welding repairs etc however I would like to save it if possible - it has 12 studs for the Side Bells and needs all the internals . I also has the in/out lever assembly for the input shaft however some parts are missing so I intend to change over to a solid input shaft. If I understand correctly the Winters Champ QC is shorter than the 301 so I am wondering if the Winters 10" 4.11 ratio Ring and pinion will fit the 301. I have done a lot of searches and can't seem to find a definitive answer so can anybody help me with this?
Also I would like to use a DPI Differential but am unsure of which one to use for the street. There is a "DPI / Winters Quick Change, Black Gold Track Differential,10 Inch/ 12 Bolt" on ebay just now- can anyone tell me if this is the one that is suitable? I realise that there is probably some modifications to be made to the DPI but I think I can get those mods to happen out here in Aussie - just need to know that this is the correct unit to buy. Will the Winters Ring fit the DPI mentioned above?
I intend to machine some adaptor side plates from the centre to the Flathead trumpets but this is probably a subject for another day once I get all the parts sorted out.
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give me.
Regards Karl

 

I answered Karl privately, but for anyone else that is contemplating something like this.
Welding a broken case correctly is a $500 job.
The Winters V8 units are shorter tan the Halibrand V8 (201) but the Winters Sprint and Halibrand Champ are virtually the same length.
The Ring & Pinions are interchangeable between brands, but to use the late model Timken foller bearings in a case made for ball bearings requires some rework on the bearing race.
Using the tapered roller bearings on a ball bearing pinion requires the same work on the race and some expensive bearing cones which also need massaging.

The TruTrac style differential (which includes the DPI Gold Track) can be used in a Halibrand case or any of the narrower Winters, Frankland etc. Modifications will have to be made, particularly if you want to run the adapter side plates to utilize the Ford V8 axle trumpets.

This is the expensive way to build a QC! That can be mitigated somewhat by buying good used parts.

 

Thanks alot GearheadsQCE. I answered your PM

 

My Haliband Champ under the chassis (built form 3 model A frames) note spring mounts are only tacked to make it a roller for a vintage racecar show

 

I like the leaf spring sliders with the jack bolt!

 

@42desertrat,
I've done that install before. You can leave the 5 on 5 hubs and use either disc or drum brakes. Narrow it by pulling the axle tubes and reinstall after cutting to length. Shorter axles will be required.
Or, put late model Ford bearing cups on the tubes and use drum brakes or discs. Aftermarket axles.

I can give you more details, if you need them.

 

I don't know how I missed this thread. I currently have 2 deuces with Winters V8 rears and a third on the way. I'm amazed how many Winters rears I sell each year. Never had any problems with them to date.

 

It is going in a 38 gmc replacing the s10 rear end. I think the width should be okay. Disk brakes would be good. I was looking at the clamp on metric caliper brackets from the circle track world. The 5/8 lug bolts look to be a bother for running street wheels.

 

There are 1/2" lugs that have a big knurl on them. I have never been able to redrill those damn Grand National Hubs. Be sure the centers of your intended wheels will fit over the hubs.
I would use the weld on brackets. You can get them for both the metric and big GM calipers.

 

Just a note: if using the bolt on brackets, either a stop bolt or 2 needs to be used to prevent rotation, or a weld bead on the cap side of the bracket once it's located properly. A bead on each side of the cap around a half inch long should be sufficient. But it should be mentioned, these are intended for race cars where they are usually checked weekly for coming loose. They don't really belong on a street car.

 

Just picked this up today. Frankland Champ qc.Got it and a few sets of gears ,will be going under my next project.

 

An early picture of mine.

 

@Pat Thompson,
Can you identify the side bells and center section for us. The rib arrangement is familiar but not common.

 

I have this Halibrand 101 that I’m putting in my ‘29 Banger. It has the linkage for an in&out. Does anyone have any ideas on how to address installing a shifter? I’d like to keep it to disengage while flat towing.

 

The last sprint car I drove had a push/pull cable installed on the shifter. That's about as simple as it gets.

 

The constructed quickchange my brother, my machinist buddy, and I are making has the backside all whittled. Time to flip the fixture over to cut on the input side.

 

Mine has 'SCP' cast on lower left in the picture. Stands for "Stock Car Products" I was told. This particular rear end spent one season racing at the local speedway and then got replaced. I bought it out of the local Trading Post along with two gear sets. One was 3.11 and the other, never used so far!, is 3.90; I think!
SCP were/are built by Winters and I've not heard otherwise. Anybody got different information?
It sure sings but it is sweet to me! If you get it going, and keep it going steady; it either quiets down a bit or you get real used to it! It's been in there 27 years.
My pal, BobbyBuilt, who helped install it; swears the QC made noise when he just rolled it across the driveway!!
I still love it but you have to get used to it going straight for a second or two when you nail it, no matter which way the front wheels are pointing! A locking rear end does just that!!
Scares the heck out of new passengers! It did me, too, the first time it happened!!