Today I installed the front disc brakes. This is probably the easiest aftermarket installation of disc brakes I have ever done. The quality of the product, the attention to detail and the exacting specs were awesome. They created one fine product. Enjoy..
Today I put the steelies back on the Falcon! It is very difficult to put a suspension on without the weight of the engine. Somehow I managed. Now I have the problem of installing the engine brace that attaches where the engine mounts go. Without the weight of the engine, the edges of the lower control arms stick out just enough to prevent the engine brace from slipping down. Any suggestions? I'm hessitant about putting lots of weight on the front of the Falcon.
Okay, I'm always learning something new. I discovered the aftermarket engine brace does not go "between" the engine mounts, it goes behind them. Thus the lower control arms can move freely. Next I discovered, after talking with a friend, the original engine mounts are offset! I learn something new everyday.
I think your calipers are reversed side to side , bleeder screw needs to be at the top of the caliper , to correctly bleed the system .
Pretty sure I have the disc brakes on correctly. Check out the companies pictures at the link below. Let me know. Thanks https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-...dab19ea1780adaa6466f8e8ffd02db5&ul_noapp=true
Looks to me like the caliper brackets are swapped side-to-side. All the conversions I've seen or done puts the calipers on the trailing side of the spindle, not the leading side. That would also fix the bleeder orientation. That also allows better cooling to the rotors.
One other thing you should probably do is reinforce the shock towers where the upper control arms attach. Ford built two different bodies for the early Falcons; a 6-cylinder version and in '63 with the addition of the optional V8 a V8 version. They increased the metal gauge in the framerails, rockers, and shock towers and added additional bracing in the shock towers as well as torque boxes tying the framerails and rockers together to handle the additional weight/power of the V8. I would consider reinforcing at the shock towers as mandatory. On the V8 cars the metal is about 3 times as thick there to prevent cracking around the bolt holes. I have seen these crack and tear out, even on the V8 cars under extreme use. Adding the under-motor crossmember and shock tower brace will help prevent cracking in other places. Hopefully you've added subframe connectors as that really helps with body flex. Adding torque boxes will also help. About 20 years ago I did more-or-less the same thing to a '64 Comet. One thing that was interesting was Mercury only used the V8 body in '64/65, regardless of motor, citing better NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Now when I talked to Global West at the time, they recommended (for street use) NOT using metal or urethane bushings on the strut rods or lower control arms as the shock loads transmitted by those could cause issues. Public streets present more hazards than race tracks was their explanation. The car handled like it was on rails, but ride quality started to get a bit harsh. 'Back in the day', Ford recommended seal-welding most of the seams to improve structural integrity if going road-racing (this was done on the factory Trans-Am cars), and this was on the V8 body shells. Do monitor the upper a-arm attachment points for cracking because if this tears out at speed it can be catastrophic....
This is why I enjoy forums. The instruction have the calipers foward, but I think I'm going to take your advice and flip them. Yes the bleed off valves have to be up. Didn't some Ford trucks have the caliper on the front of the rotors? Do you guys see any issues with flipping the calipers to the rear?Thanks again for the advice! Here's the instructions.
If they are to be mounted forward , swap left to right and right to left . If the bleeder is not at the top of the caliper, you will never get your brakes to work correctly . I don’t know what it will take , swap brackets or only calipers , but bleeder not at the top , you’ll make up potty words , trying to get good medal travel on the brakes .
I emailed the manufacturer. He got back to me today! On a Sunday. I have everything correct, but the calipers are backwards. They are even marked Left / Right. DUH! The calipers can't go to the rear, because the spindle's steering arm would interfere. There ya go. View attachment 4999601
Great ! You will be a happy camper now ! Great job , great build . I’m just trying to increase the fun factor for you as much as I can . Believe me when I tell you , I know to look for this because I learned the effects the hard way .
Waiting on paint and a couple parts to arrive. So I decided to clean up, modify and paint my inner-fender shock tower covers. Whatcha think?
Just picked up a Ford 9" for cheap. 3.70 gear ratio, big bearing. Only catch, it's completely disassembled! Guess I'll be studying up on how to reassemble. Any pointers or tips are welcome and encouraged! Thanks
Got a chance to work on the Falcon today. Finished painting the engine compartment. I also installed the motor mounts and engine cross brace.
Daaang! I had to hunt down some open lettered ones, those are mint! Can't wait to see them on the car! Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, I painted the engine and put the heads and intake on. I also pulled the rear-end and the 1980's Traction Bars! I also removed the gas tank. Discovered a lot of rust in the trunk. Does anyone know if they make trunk patch panels? Thanks
Looks like the heads have guide plates and rail rockers for the pushrod/rocker alignment? Shouldn't have both. I would do a quality set of roller rockers, adjustable guide plates; they will last forever.
I know it's been awhile since I've posted anything, just been busy. I'm still working on the Falcon. I recently took the forum's advice and installed roller rockers. I also recently purchased a 62 Falcon Squire Station Wagon.
I had a chance to install my new Global West lower control arms. Took forever to get, but well worth it. Very well made.