Technical ***October 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Happy Halloween***

Here in the peoples republic of California you have to make damn sure you know what your dealing with..do a 'package check' you never know if that 'innie' you are buying drinks for is actually an 'outie'

 

One can never be too sure these days...

 

Happy to report just at 1700 miles round trip and one wrong turn to the Gathering at the Roc, in the Vicky
Totally trouble free and averaged 55 to 60 mph.
The whole experience was a pleasure...except for the bed bugs but I'm over that!
my thread is here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/on-the-road-to-the-roc.1243655/
Bangers rule

 

check for the Adams apple, sure sign...

 

. . . tell us about it, John.

 

Been drinking in the shop too long, bought one of those sissy white boy beers in a tall glass, tossed a 20 down and got 3 dollars change.. shit I could drink for 2 weeks on 17 dollars at the casa..

 

nothing is affordable today

 

awesome race car !

 

Yep and its got 4 bangers in it <Grin>

 

True !
Also, the wrist is another ‘give away’ !
If “she” can break your wrist… in an arm wrestle match, try elsewhere !!

 

Banger Bandits, I need your assistance! I'll be getting a Scintilla pretty soon.

I understand that in normal conditions, the engine would be grounded and making contact from the engine to the mag would kill it.

If we arent running a battery, what would ground the mag?

 

Retson : the Mag is self contained & totally separate from the vehicle's battery(or no battery)system : you can "kill the spark" by grounding to the Mag case if you wanted to. DO NOT CONNECT THE MAG TO THE BATTERY!! if you do , you will probably need to get the Mag rebuilt, as you will probably short out the internals!!!

 

Hey there, thanks for the info. What I'm curious about is if I'm not running a battery, would my chassis actually be able to ground the case of the mag?

 

As stated above, the mag is self contained. It will have a terminal on the side to attach a wire to. That terminal will kill the spark if you run a wire from it to the case or to anything metal that the case is electrically connected to. That could be the engine, the chassis, the instrument panel, etc. With that terminal not grounded you have spark. To stop the engine, ground that terminal to anything metal.

 

In reality for a street car you need a substantial switch on the dash or somewhere in the car to make the ground. In my experience a normal plastic switch will not work reliably, as they tend to become loose internally and then the mag can produce enough current to jump the terminals and cause running problems . Look at Joe Hunt Magnetos https://www.huntmagnetos.com/products/kill-switch.html
You can also use a relay which will work on a mag with normal ignition switch , but it needs to be a good quality one.

 

That's what I needed, thank you!

 

This will be going on a pretty hot banger for Drag T called "Quicke Tee" the "T" is silent..
86" wheelbase of slow fury!

 

Ha ha , I like your description ! and yes I have seen the pictures of your T racer , just didn't realise that car and the mag were part of the same project .
You still have to have a method of shutting it down within reach of the driver, and another one at the back of the car for track crew or emergency services to shut it down if you are going to fast and come to grief. If you are not going to run a battery to operate a relay , you can wire two earth wires from the terminal on the mag to two different grounded switches and either one will shut the engine down. You just have to remember to turn both on when you want it to run.
I know these things, I am the technical director of IHRA in New Zealand .

A grounded mag switch is good for starting fixed advance engines too. Spin the motor over with the ground in place then flip the switch once you have oil pressure .

 

Here's a few pic's of a T Bucket my friend is working on. Frontenac Head, 39 Trans and Columbia Rear End.

 

I've got some different part numbers that I believe are good, but so far, bombing out though someone has some that will be available in 01/22 that they ordered in 05/21 that will be new bearings
Numbers;
V639- 0.40" or 1.00mm which is a Vandervell PN
MKCB04-00535-1.00 which I think is a variation of the 535 bearing

 

You teases! ;-) More details, eg. by link to build threads! :-D

 

Getting there..............

 

Dannerr, here's the link to my build...
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-new-project-29-roadster.1239884/

 

I saw a dude talking about how "they" (whoever "they" is) used to bolt a pair of motorcycle carbs "directly to the block". Anyone ever seen this? Anyone doing it now? Any pictures? Sounds cool but I don't see how it would work without at least a short runner...

 

Thanx for sharing - am at work, but will read through it later. Great start to the story though! :-D

 

Seems like a whole lot of work when you could just make a simple intake..
I'd imagine they probably had super short runners, like this RAJO with SR Carbs.

 

That is very cool!!!

 

Current Sources

Who are the current sources, hopefully east of the Mississippi for counter balanced Model A cranks other than Burlington and Scat, engine owner has a budget and would consider welded on or press on. Will require a crank with weights and fresh reground, hopefully min. .030 but may go with .040 undersize, application non-racing, for touring. Appreciate any leads!
Steve

 

Just to clarify... these are Winfield “H” model carbs