Technical Cam break in! Why all the problems?

Is there any reason why flat tappet camshafts were never made out of forged steel????...
I'm just a little curious....

 

Does forged wear less? Think it would still have to be hardened anyway?

 

They do that for every engine? Or 1 in a 100 to check? I’m thinking with 1000’s of cars a day going out the door, it would require a lot of machines and headcount to pull that off.
I’ve seen pics of Ford doing it, but I don’t think his volume was as much as what is occurring the past 60 or so years.

 

Its all automated ..

 

I think the Covid virus is responsible.................

 

I installed a solid lifter perf cam in a 324 Olds. The lifters (same as SBC lifters) had a small hole burned into the face up into pressurized cavity that feeds oil to the push rods. Have put 25000 on that cam. Never inspected that cam or lifters, but the valve lash remains virtually unchanged. Is it possible this actually helps? Seems like maybe a simple improvement, probably difficult or impossible on a hyd lifter. Greg

 

I’ve only ever used lubriplate lithium in my rebuilds, never had a problem. No it doesn’t break down in the oil, fire the engine, break in and change oil and filter, run 500k or 300 m another oil filter change. Recently rebuilt my 292 y block, now has 7000 miles on it, have checked rockers 3 times, good so far.

 

In the 70's I worked part time/then full time before starting my Tool & Die/Pattern shop (I'm a carded tradesman, both trades) for SESCO racing engines, a very successful Midget race engine manufacture. On the subject of assembly lube oil, 90 weight gear oil was on bearings, cam, rollers, cam, etc, cylinders 30 wt oil, then 50 Wt Valvoline race oil, (no break in with racing engines, warm them up and go, later years I used 20/50 wt))very specific instructions on dry sump tank, oil lines and how to oil prime before firing engine went with each engine. I built/rebuilt many engines, race engines (side business) using the 90 wt gear oil as assembly lube, never a failure, ALL engines I built were oil primed before firing, later years, street type used the cam lube recommended from cam supplier on flat tappet cams, again, never a failure. The last engine I built was in late 90's, a 454 +030 mild street engine, comp cam flat tappet cam, still running today, never a problem. I purchased 3 crate engines in my later years, 2 reputable speed shop SBC 355's broke in on dyno, (both Brad Penn oil) 1 GM 350, all again primed before firing, used recommended Joe Gibbs break in oil GM crate. I'm talking 75/100 engines, never kept a log book, (should have)with no failures of any type from improper assembly lube starting around 1962, 14 years old, used STP for assemble lube till I worked for SESCO, my Dad's Midget race engines, my Midget/Sprint race engines, others race engines through late 90's, Many SBC with some BBC thrown in. I'm thinking majority of today's problems cam/lifter is in the quality of offshore shit we have available, A LOT of Crap IMO, lack of Zinc in oil and lack of experience in engine building plays big here on HAMB as well meaning members post bad info with the good info on engine building along with lack of good automotive machine shops left for quality work needed, close enough does not work with engines. All my BS here is my opinion from my life's experiences, remember $2 and my opinion/advice gets you a coffee at most places.

 

Mobil 1 also has their own brand of oil filters.... I have one on my car now....