Technical ***August 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Hot August Bangers!***

Part of the problem putting the valves in the head same as the Ardun is the pushrod locations.
The intake side is easy as a long rocker can be used, not so easy for the ex.
Now, if you make a SOHC or DOHC, it is possibly easier but the drive mechanism may not be so...

 

I had an alum Riley 4 Port, until month ago.. that FRICK made. Had it for many years. Wanted it on my D, but was advised that it would not be powerful enough for that good base.

 

I saw a set up once that used ball bearings in a tube that actuated the valve. Transferring the movement of the push rod via curved tube to the end of the valve. The valve on the opposite of the pushrod could be operated this way, but it is only good for 1:1 movement limiting lift. SOHC would be better using a rocker with a ratio for more lift. Wow, now my sprockets are humming.

 

The head with the ball bearings is in Speedy Bill's museum. As you said you only get 1:1 lift.

 

Y’all are referring to the early Harry (Hal) Hosterman designed overhead for a model T, the “Akron-Hed”.



Here is a pic of the Akron-Hed that have built a rocker system for as the ball bearing tubes are a poor design. Not only is there no ratio advantage, but the internal friction and pressures cause the tubes to fail in very short time. There is a reason nobody else has ever tried it since!

 

Finally had a chance to take my cutdown banger project out to an event last weekend. Went to the #estranged_cc drags up in Toutle, WA at Riverdale Raceway. It ran really surprisingly strong for a warmed up B engine - 63 mph in the 1/8!

I'm having problem with a heavy and pretty constant drip of oil coming out the bottom of the "bell housing"/oil pan hole where the bent over cotter pin lives - what I'd call a rear main leak. Any suggestions on how to fix or at least slow it down? I've pulled the pan and flywheel off. The drain back tube is not plugged. The slinger looks to be in good shape. I don't think it was leaking down from the rear of the cam shaft. I do have a lot of blow by as the engine has seen a lot of miles/hours (came out of an old farm truck). I am not dis-assembling the engine any time soon - so the grinding the slinger down and adding a one or two piece seal is not an option at this time. Any tricks or suggestions? I'm intending to get it back together and head to the RPM Nationals with it in a few weeks.

 

Need help on an inserted B block. My builder, who has done some A motors, but not an inserted B, says the block side of the inserts is wider than the insert is. The reccomendation is to put shims on both sides of the insert bearing. Does this make sense?

 

Dan,

I started and abandoned this using the mod motor roller rocker arms, I like the bucket design better.
Especially if I can get some radius top Offy ones!!

 

I am not sure what type of shims they might be talking about.
I typically place two bearing shells next to each other to lengthen the bearing.
Do you know what bearings they are attempting to use? Some are getting tougher to find.

John

 

“I think not cam end leak”.
You have the flywheel off Now is the EASY time to remove flywheel cover, and to ensure that the proper gasket is in there… blocking/ preventing oil leak. It happens. Guys neglect to install that important gasket. good luck.

 

I know the bearings came from Falluca's and he recommended the shims. If I recall correctly he said they need about 4/100's on either side.

 

Sorry, have not used Ricks bearings.
J

 

Thanks for the reply @hardtimesainit I neglected mentioning it, but I had removed the flywheel cover and there was a gasket there that was sealing and not leaking oil out from the back of the cam.

 

Here is a pic of the flywheel cover. Gasket is there. Quite thin and stained, but there. There was not any wet leakage on the back of the block from this area.

I'm also providing a few images of the rear main "seal" and oil slinger area. Is there supposed to be a gasket or seal of any kind here?

 

Did you check clearance on the rear main bearing...? You might find that it only takes a few tho of bearing clearance to overwhelm the slinger...

 

You may be on to something , the crank looks like riding only last 1/4" or so on the babbitt.
Also, there should be some sealant on the cap back edges. I took one apart last year that did not leak a drop, the last person to assemble JB Welded the shims in place and the rear of the cap. What a bear to seperate...

J

 

I can see the crankcase vapor coming out the fill tube in your video. Perhaps a road draft tube or some sort of crankcase evacuation system would help. A negative pressure in the pan to suck the oil back in.

 

Fun duel! Surprised to see the pre-WW1 guys get their own event and with mechanics! was the turnout low?

 

Well, if you know that it was sealing… well. But, it doesnt look right to me. Look ragged where “dirty” colored (oil stain?) area above gasket.
Do you have high pressured oil …. that can come past that gasket… such as it is ?
I’m just getting a B back near running. It had a bad leak right at that gasket. I put new gasket with smear of non- hardening permetex.. on gasket.

 

@hardtimesainit that dirty area above the gasket is caked on dirty/grease from over the years that this was in a farm truck. I hadn't previously had the cover off before this. When installing the engine I scraped and wire brushed most of the exterior of the engine prior to painting, but couldn't reach behind the cover.
The oiling system is not high pressure, its as Ford made it in 1932. It looked to me like the gasket was sealing, but its an area I'll definitely pay attention to - and use a bit of sealer on.

@Kevin Pharis & @johnneilson - I like what you are saying about bearing clearance and sealing the main cap. I'll check clearance and then the cap seal during re-assembly. The cap had just one shim.

@Fabber McGee Interesting idea about the road draft tube or other evac system. I hadn't considered the negative pressure idea. Will draft tube make that big of difference?

 

Beavermatt, I've never experimented with road draft tubes, but I would think you'd want a lot of volume to make much vacuum. Perhaps a big diameter tube, maybe 1 and 3/4 or 2" and get the end out in as much airflow as you can. With the end of the tube 90 degrees to the air flow and a baloney slice on the end to build vacuum.
With an old piece of tailpipe for material it won't cost you much but your time to see what happens. If it doesn't help you're not out a lot of dough.

 

Sardine can hanging under the drip hole on 4 wires , empty before each trip...is what I read in a Model A Club bulletin somewhere.


Eat the sardines first!

 

Crankcase pressure doesn't affect rear main bearing oil flow on a B like it does on an A engine.

Pushing an unknown used engine is dicey.The B is less likely to hammer out center main like an A but why take a chance? Right now you could probably get away with an old fashioned overhaul..adjust bearings,lap valves,hone and ring cylinders and change timing gear..couple hundred bucks and labor,cheap peace of mind..

 

stupid but need info ................. when installing a headliner in my '31 coupe , does piping go first ??

 

Welp, got the engine closer to running! Still need to get safety wire for the flywheel, and to paint a few more things. Is the yellow TOO bright?

 

You better get permission from Rich Fox. That's his patented shade, but I doubt he would ever work on a Ford.

 

My banger isn't even 1/10th of the power of his builds! I'm a big fan of his plymouth banger

 

Side note, I'm looking at this front timing cover, and trying to understand how someone would run a mag or water/oil pump off the cam. Anyone have any input on this?

 

Maybe like this?

 

That's what I'm thinking. Are you running a coupler on the cam gear?