Hot Rods Hurst mid mount

Read a ton of threads on hurst front mounts needing a mid mount. Ordered a set of these brackets from speedway that mount between the bellhousing and block. Don’t like the gap it creates, was thinking of modifying them to bolt to the outside of the bellhousing. Should I have any concerns with that? Picture of the brackets I’m referencing in mock-up

 

I thought those were meant to go outside the bellhousing??

That's how I'd run them, along with longer dowel pins so those are engaged into the mouting plate too.

You just have to support the motor some other way when you service anything in the flywheel area is all, since you'd have to pull the ears off to remove the bellhousing.

 

I'm not an engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but I don't see why your idea wouldn't work. It might take some grinding and some custom fabbed spacer's, but it should work. Longer dowel's too, as Ericnova72 suggested.

 

agree, I thought they went on the outside but no way in heck how they are. I’ve read several other threads and seen pictures of people mounting them in between. I started cutting and grinding on one to fit on the outside, a lot of material needs to be removed. If I can’t may then work I’ll just fab up something else with a similar concept

 

There’s a recent post on here talking about the same thing. I had some fanned when I had my engine and trans installed, there’s some pics in that posts. Mine bolt on the back of the bellhousing .

 

They go between the block and the scattershield . Round track cars run a side mount, those mounts and no rear trans mount. With a automatic trying to put them on the outside is a problem because so much of the case is in the way.

 

Do you have pics of what you came up with?

 

I worked in NASCAR for years and we put them between the block and bell housing to hold up the back of the engine when you had to change a clutch. On my hot rod I put a hydraulic throw out bearing in and used the mid mounts to make up part of the deference you need to set up the bearing. the air gap between the block and bell housing seamed a good place to let the clutch vent. Been there for 10 years

 

So if the brackets are installed between the trans and the block.... What else needs to be done to compensate for this additional space?

On an automatic for example does the torque converter need shims?, special spacers? other?

 

Just to be sure the torque converter fully engages the front pump of the trans, you'd want a spacer between the flex plate and the torque converter the same thickness as the "batwings".....probably 1/4".

Lynn

 

So a kit like this is all I would need:



https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-745504-Midplate-Spacer-Kit-1-4-Inch-Thick,69438.html

If I tried to make one myself I doubt it would be balanced and would be concerned I would cause a vibration

 

Have them on my coupe @Barbarian for my 409 with Hurst style front engine mount. They bolt on the outside as a couple guys stated. I just made sure I used longer bolts so they snugged all the way down like the other ones. The mid mount is a must if you're running the front mount style and an aluminum body tranny

 

I've been curious about this since I got my '56 Vette a year ago. It has front engine mounts and a tailshaft mount, no mid mount like the passenger cars. It has an iron 3 speed but in '57 I think the 4 speeds came out, aluminum I presume.

 

I just saw a guy yesterday online who put tabs on his trans, mounted solid to vertical angle iron welded to the frame. Any concerns with it being mounted solid, or is rubber needed?

 

The transmission mount on the tailshaft always needs to be rubber.

 

Yea, we are talking mid mounts here. The rear was rubber. The mid mount was solid mounted without rubber.

 

At best, mounting any motor mount solid is going to transfer vibration into the chassis. Solid mounted engines are common on dedicated race cars, but for something that's going to be driven on the street I think the nod would go to some sort of mount that had some give. Over time I would expect that solid engine/transmission mounts would cause something to crack or break.

Lynn

 

I used poly bushings on my mid mount. My set up is the front mounts, the mid mount and the tranny tail mount all with proper poly/rubber. Vibration is minimal and I know the whole set up is solid with no weak points. over build and then you don't run into issues.

 

Do you have pictures of what your mid mount looked like?

 

looked through my file on the build and I couldn't locate any

 

Can you massage the BH area where they are to bolt to on the block, to bolts them on the BH ? Little off here, little off there?

 

BTTT Any more pics?

 

Trying to decide if I want to use up my Hurst mount that has been kicking around forever and do a mid mount or just swap to side mounts since it is a later block

 

Any reason not to just run a 1/8th" steel mid plate like drag cars use? You can "leg off" of it to padded frame mounts and alleviate any worry. Trim it to some kool shape where it shows, have some surface area for lines or wires that looks neat. Add 1/8th washers between the convertor and flex plate if that too is a worry. On a clutch not sure, never did it. Didn't early Chevy V8 trucks run bell housings with mid mounts? I hate to see easy stuff complicated but maybe I missed a detail here...?

 

I am thinking that as well. This is in an AD pickup with an auto so it will be well hidden.

And yes, I do have a couple of the truck bellhousings with mid mounts.