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Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    Well, I may have another project soon. My cousin in Montana is interested in buying a boat in my area. He has asked if I would be interested in going to take a look, buying the boat and towing it to MT. What do I get in return? He has offered to give me his A Roadster. I'll start another thread on that, but thought I'd announce it here to create the link between the two...Here's a couple of pictures of the Roadster, and of the boat I'll be "trading" for it.
    2.jpg 1.jpg Hershoff.jpg
     
  2. Craig Owens
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 464

    Craig Owens
    Member

    Damn! You got the better end of that trade Jeff. Help him transport a boat that ain't yours in exchange for that cool Model A roadster...yeah, that's a win. Of course he is your brother, so there's that. Gotta come and check out that Model A when you get it home.
     
    kidcampbell71 and nunattax like this.
  3. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    love that A,hope to get one some day good luck with it.chris
     
  4. jim galli
    Joined: Sep 28, 2009
    Posts: 384

    jim galli
    Member

    Dream stuff. Both the "A" and the '34. Sweet! Git 'ur done. Quick.
     
    nunattax likes this.
  5. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    I'll let you know when it's home. I'll have to find a time between my travels to make the trip...BEFORE WINTER SETS IN!

    Well, I DO have to buy the boat. So I get the A for whatever I pay for the boat...(I think I'm still getting the better deal)...
     
    brEad and Runnin shine like this.
  6. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks! The PU has been a blast to have.
     
  7. Craig Owens
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 464

    Craig Owens
    Member

    Oops, I overlooked that little detail. Still a swingin' deal. That Model A roadster looks great!
     
  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Excited for you but also a little sad that your brother may be leaving hot rodding?
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    He’s never really been a hot rod type. I was surprised he bought it. The car has glass rear fenders and the rumble was converted into a trunk. Other than that, I think it’s all stock.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  10. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    Hoping I can get some guidance from the almighty HAMB on this one. My truck has been overheating recently. It is also starting a bit hard. It was suggested that I check the points. Today, I pulled the distributor to check the points. They do have some pitting (crappy pics on next post). And, the point gap is only .008-.010". That's low compared to VanPelt's, who says it should be .014-.106".
    Bubba rebuilt this distributor about 6-7 years ago if that helps.
    Questions:

    1) Hard to tell from these crappy pics, but should I replace the points? I'm thinking since I've already got the dizzy out, I should. But, that begs the following question
    b) IF I remember correctly, changing the points means setting advance again. Since I don't know where TDC is on this flathead, and it doesn't have a mark, I'm thinking that might be more trouble than it's worth, unless anyone has any input on this one. This brings me to the third question
    3) Should I just use an old school emory board to clean up the points, set the gap and run it to see if that solves my problem?

    Cheers!
     
  11. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    Pics of points. 762D5EDF-A25B-4813-8800-02282B921E98.jpeg C75625BE-E5A7-44B1-9787-29A1B604415E.jpeg
     
  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    replace points and condenser
     
  13. D Newcomb
    Joined: Oct 14, 2020
    Posts: 333

    D Newcomb

    Just found and bought this 34PU all apart!! Old WA State rod Anyone remember it- has 'Stacks' reuse?? Newc
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Newc,
    Your posting in an incorrect area
    Make a new post with this question.
     
  15. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    I got the points set, distributor timing set, and back in the truck. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Runs well at idle and advance looks right at fast idle. I'll take it for a ride this weekend to see if this solved the overheating issue. It seems to start a bit easier as well, but it's hard to tell. Maybe I just want to think it's starting easier...
     
    Petejoe likes this.
  16. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Jeff,
    Your radiator needs a residual valve attached to your overflow hose. I wouldn’t add a recovery tank. Not needed.
    Preferably a 4 pound pressure release valve.
    But they are hard to find.
    I’ve installed a 2 pound brake residual valve on my 34 truck and it does the same thing.
    That radiator will not pressurize without a valve. Pressuring increases the boiling point but more importantly it slows the loss of coolant when your running full speed. You won’t believe the difference.

    AAF03BC8-D15E-461E-963E-1EA310F39B1E.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2022
  17. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    I've been battling a fuel leak for a while, and yesterday I tried to get it fixed up. I have a fuel filter, fuel pump, and regulator (in that order) inside the frame rail on the driver's side of the truck. When I disconnected the line between the pump and the regulator, gas was draining from the tank through the line. I'd like to replace all the hoses and the filter, but I'd rather not drain the tank. If I blow air back through the line from the engine end and purge the line, will that stop the constant dripping, or will it start to syphon again?
    Thanks.
     
  18. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Use hard lines, preferably the copper/nickel alloy type. Easy to work with.
    Install a rubber hose at the tank outlet and clamp it with a pair of vise grips while installing the new line.
    I ran some short rubber line off of the hard line for my pump and regulator for the ease of replacement.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 904

    Jeff34
    Member

    I used copper nickel lines. Worked great. I didn't put a rubber hose between the tank and the filter (dang). And, to get to that place, I need to remove the bed.
     
    Outback likes this.
  20. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,381

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Dang!
     
  21. Duke of Haphazard
    Joined: Jun 13, 2023
    Posts: 34

    Duke of Haphazard
    Member
    from PNW

    Jeff, thanks for keeping your thread going. I, like many others on here am jealous of your exceedingly original truck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2023
    Outback and brEad like this.
  22. Toms Dogs
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 359

    Toms Dogs
    Member
    from NJ

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