Technical ***July 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Happy 4 Cylinders!***

I bought it from a shop in Lompoc 3 yrs ago.

 

Judging by the fence, looks to be the south side of town. Hot Rod Alley is my guess?

 

Bingo!

 

I've got my mechanical brakes working great.. they are just a little picky to get sorted out, getting all the slack out and getting them 'balanced' (equal application pressure on all for wheels) is key, hydraulics 'balance' application pressure with fluid, mechanicals rely on adjustment, it is critical. To increase braking efficiency I use woven shoes, cast iron drums and Flathead teds 'floater' kits.. Teds kit when fitted correctly to the front brakes work like true self energizing brakes, the shoes 'knuckle' in on application, The kit for the rears isn't quite as effective as the front. Woven shoes bite better than bonded, cast iron (nodular) drums dissipate heat better and don't fade as quickly as steel, nothing scarier than standing with both feet on the pedal and nothing happens.. . Get everything right and although application pressure required is higher mine work really well in the california suburban combat environment, where catastrophe is a moron in a honda away..

 

Absolutely. I have woven shoes, teds floaters etc. But I have shoes dragging making it really hard to get the feel right at the start of balancing them. I need to look at the drums for roundness as well as all the pins and clevises.

 

I had a problem getting the Teds to actuate at the same time,front left was a shade slower than front right..if it doesn't knuckle in at the same time it will pull on application..and it doesn't adjust out,you have to go back in and find the 'high' spot in the mechanism..

 

i had teds kit in my mechanical . with care & adjustments , they are GREAT . slide tires at most any speed .................. good luck .... steve

 

In last month's Banger Thread (www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/july-2021-banger-meet-thread-happy-4-cylinders.1234360/ Post # 30) I asked for help in identifying the parts needed to repair the broken starter drive on my Model A engine. It didn't appear to be a stock starter drive. Thanks to everyone that replied to my questions, I got the answers I needed. I also came up with a new solution for a starter that I want to share.

Turned out that I had a V8 flywheel and to use the Model A starter you have to reverse the Bendix Drive. I was directed to an article in the SSOS and other threads here on the HAMB that detailed how to make the necessary modifications. Of prime importance was the addition of a support bearing on the end of the starter shaft since it hangs out from the starter about 5 inches. My starter setup didn't have that support bearing and that's why my starter drive broke.

To install a support bearing, you really need to have the bellhousing out of the car and on the bench. Or have unlimited access to the back of the bellhousing if it's still in the car. My engine is in a single seat Big Track Sprint Car so there is no room to get at the back of the bellhousing. I also didn't want to pull the engine & drivetrain out of the car. So I looked around at what was available in the starter aftermarket.

There are a couple of companies that make gear drive starters for the Model A engine. That didn't help because those starter drives only moved the starter gear out about 1 inch and you need about a 2-1/4 inch throw to engage the V8 flywheel on a Model A engine. However one company, WOSP (www.wosperformance.com), also makes a Model T gear drive starter that puts the starter gear out about 4-1/4 inches. I called them and they were able to build me a custom starter that uses the Model A mounting flange and starter gear with a Model T starter drive. I then made a 2 inch thick spacer to put everything in the right place. And it works great. Hopefully this info may be of use to others.

WOSP Model A starter:


WOSP Model T starter:


2 inch spacer:


Installed:

 

Those morons are present the world over. Even in the relatively quiet roads here in New Zealand they sit in wait of innocent motorists and without warning , suddenly and randomly turn or stop for no apparent reason .

 

Welcome to California, they are everywhere, usually going way over the speed limit and/or right next to you when they make the sudden vector change in direction.
That is a technical term for losing control on a data trace.
J

 

Cool, great that you got it sorted! Now we just need to see a few pictures of your car!

 

Just sounds pissed off and nasty

 

Really appreciate your input, I have the 3 bushing setup. will be using your setup in the future!

 

john , what motor is that ? .......... steve

 

Steve,
new flathead in my buddies coop.

interesting system, should make pretty good power.

J

 

At the showdown at Sanford field Wisconsin the flat head drag races, The four Bangers outnumbered the V-8‘s
The heap won 3 lost two and got bumped out…. I wish I could tune because I think it could go harder.

 

^^^^^ On the red motor, is that a thermostat housing under the head outlet and if so why the extra port off the rear of it?
Thanks in advance.

 

Yes that is a thermostat housing, the port on the back of it heats a plate under the carburetor.

 

Cheers, thanks for the reply.

 

Here you go:

 

I made it to Pendine Sands. Ran the car and made it home with the engine still in one piece. That’s a win for me.
It ran a best of 97.45mph on the Saturday with it just hitting the Rev limiter as I entered the timed section on the fastest run. Over night I changed the QC gears from 3.38:1 to 3.33:1 in an attempt to hit the 100mph.
Sadly the weather had other ideas. The track dried enough to get a few cars through but then the rain set in and big puddles and patches of what we call ‘porridge’ in the shut down area made it too dangerous to continue.
Attached are photos taken by other people. Credit goes to them.



and a few by myself from before and the aftermath of the very wet sand.

 

Why the heck are you guys running on sand? Are the WWII bomber strips all gone?

 

It’s not just sand. It’s Pendine Sands.

and yes , most of the strips have broken up or gone.

 

Glad you had a great weekend, good photos, can’t wait for the new normal to start so we can come back again.
Pendine sand is like no other, let alone the event!

 

Finally have a carb.. Almost time for this motor to awaken...

 

On another note, I recall seeing an ohc mod for the Cragar style heads, does anyone know about these? Have done some looking & not turned anything up??

 

Clemons?
https://kansasracinghistory.com/Engines/Engines.htm

 

Hi everyone - can someone tell me is it a huge task to fit a later model ford (say 40-50 4 speed) to a model A engine? I gather the rear will have to be converted to open drive ,but apart from that is it a huge effort for little reward?I am sure someone must have attempted it.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-original-model-a-engine-w-torquetube.728951/