Too many options around for a fuel filter...can i get some opinions on what's being used ? Running 3/8 lines. Unsure on reusable filters or not..Thanks
I like the glass bowl type. I like seeing what I have flowing to the squirters. And they look the part too.
You can use the one for the cross fire chevy engine thay have a 3/8 flair on one end and 3/8 nipple on the other and most of your fuel injected system filters are high capicity and flow shit most people dont change them for maybe 70,000 plus miles.
10 micron rated and big enough to last my lifetime, available at any auto parts store: WIX 24006 Canuck
The canister style fuel filter generally have larger capacity than the smaller inline filters. It really depend whether you are running a carb or an EFI system, as some of these filters are not intended for pressures over 15 PSI. The other thing in mounting and plumbing the system, is can you service it with a full tank of fuel. Anything which comes out of the bottom of the tank(under the liquid level) cannot be serviced unless the tank is drained or has a shutoff valve(ball valve preferred). This is why it is not legal to pull fuel out of the bottom or rear sump in a street car. Yes there are thousands of them out there, including most pro street cars, but that does not make it right. In a drag car this is the standard configuration, but fuel pulled from the top of the tank with a pickup tube is the best method for a street driven car. That is why more and more people are using in tank pumps, but most cannot be serviced without dropping the fuel tank out of the car. John
Thanks for the info. The filter that Canuck posted looks like what i'm after. Any links for where i could find one? (i'm in NZ) Cheers
Got a part number for that one? The BEST used to be a Delco GF62C, Socal even had it in their catalog but it has been discontinued. I have been looking for a replacement PN since.
This is my Volvo unit next to the fuel pump. Readily available and easy to replace. From a 244 I believe?, threaded inlet and outlet.
Fuel filter choice really depends on the kind of fuel pump. For carburetors, a stock-type mechanical "puller" can handle a very fine filter such as the cartridges from Fram and others, rated at 10 micron. But some "pusher" inline electric pumps, however, suggest/recommend no more than a 100 micron filter on the inlet side, with a 40 or finer micron to the carb(s). The replaceable/cleanable SS element filters are, IMO, the best choice, because of never having to buy another paper element that may be made overseas of poor quality, and/or may be damaged caused by today's gasoline blends. Some are available with several filtration/flow ratings, like Holleys/Earls, my choice.
The filter head was purchased from a Canadian institution, Princess Auto. Think a cross between Harbour Freight, NAPA, and Tractor supply. No manufacturer info on it. In their catalogue section Driveline , Hydraulics Fluid Conditioning , Housings, In-line ,3/4 in. NPT In-Line Filter Head " <O Max. Continuous Pressure 150 PSI<O Max. Continuous Flow 10 GPM <OInlet/Outlet Ports 3/4 in. NPTF<O Element Size 5.35 and 7.87 in.<O Bypass Pressure 25 PSI<O <O http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8006258/In-line/3/4-in.-NPT-In-Line-Filter-Head <OThis part could be available locally thru a hydraulic supplier. Mounting bracket design is up to you.<O The Filter is a standard WIX part. Could be cross referenced with other brands. I got mine from a local auto parts supplier (Piston Ring) that handles WIX. Stocked item at the local store.<O <O The one thing that doesn't show up in the picture is the size, the filter is nearly as big as a PH-8 oil filter. Made for diesel,s but compatible with gasoline.<O <O Fuel Filter Head 1X16, ¾ NPT P/A# 8006258 $13.99 Fuel Filter 3.67 OD, Gasket 2.729/2.415 - WIX 24006 $8.00 Adapters from Fairview, NPT to 3/8" inverted flare. Canuck<O <O
If running a Ford engine, you can use an earlier style fuel pump with the integral canister fuel filter. I had a problem with my rusty fuel tank repeatedly clogging the tiny inline filter at the carburetor, and switching to the early style filter/fuel pump solved the problem. The filter can hold a large amount of sediment and rust and keep working. Plus, filters are a dollar or so at the swap meets. I imagine other engines might have similar fuel pump/filter setups available. I also like the glass bowls, they can be readily removed, dirt and water dumped out, then wiped clean and reinstalled, all on the side of the road with no tools. Plus you can fill them with your favourite carb cleaner/miracle solvent to give a quick carburetor cleaning. As an aside, last fall I had an inline canister fuel filter fall apart internally. It was only about six months old, and one of the internal element glue joints failed. It was the second time I'd seen this.
Most of these are OK after the fuel pump,if you are running an electric fuel pump DO NOT run a paper element between the tank and the pump it can suck the paper in and fry the pump,Summit now warns against this.I lost a new Holley Red pump within 3 hours run time from a paper clog.
...And one more......this was a Chrome Spectre Inline that I installed perhaps 2 years ago... The Hotrod at the time seemed to be fine but last year continuing into this season I had moments where everything was running fine then all of a sudden it would start losing power almost like running on 5 out of 8 cylinders and die if I stopped but I always made it home...I was reading a thread recently...perhaps your post and someone else said if the filter rattles when you shake it its F'd and I have to thank you fellas as I believe the unglued element was bouncing around and getting sucked by the pump against the outlet and causing my problem as today with a new Napa inline that I shook with no rattle all seemed pretty darn awesome... I was thinking Spark Plugs, Cap, rotor or Wires or ignition but I really think the inline was the problem...Stogy's a Happy camper and I still have a new Holley Fuel Regulator, Wires, Cap still to install and Plugs I did last summer all bought to chase this issue... ...This was the replacement...made by Wix...offshore but a name that is trusted but if you experience lack of power all of a sudden that is periodic in nature take your inline off drain it and give it a shake it could be that simple...
Trying to trace a problem with my Chevelle, had the same problem with a filter coming apart inside, Wix or Standard from local auto parts store a couple of years before. Just put a new one on.
I guess I was lucky my tank is pretty clean...I mean it was raw gas heading to my carbs for quite some time...I don't put huge miles on it but it's been a while that that power loss anomaly has been happening... Drove it two days in a row with no burps or farts...what a load off the shoulder's...
No there is a seal attached to the top of the filter body and a coil spring holds it up I think. It’s been a long time since I changed it. The filter and glass bowl gasket are available for $8. If I’m careful I don’t spill fuel when checking it.
For God sake just don’t use one of these leaky cheap bits of crap !! I like using these mid 90’s gm fuel filters as they have that bump to slide the hose over and clamp it in pls e cheap and easy to find and work very well. I like using glass sediment bowl filters under the hood as they look neat !
If you have a lathe your can make new end pieces for the glass filter shown above so as to acommodate fuel line fittings.
There is something to be said for a glass visual, but using a tried and true period or period inspired Glass filter over inferior product is important...seeing can make diagnosis easier to read...although there are Hambers that can read the symptoms glass or not...cutting open the inline filters and inspecting could alert one to causes of lack of performance...as said swap it out and see... They are one of the more reasonably priced very important body guards for the drive...
In my Quadrajet, I replace the little paper filter and use a screen filter that they use in boats. Every now and then I pull it out and run it through the hot water and dry it... I've never had any carb issues and those Quadrajets will act up when any little piece of dirt gets in them.. With a mechanical fuel pump, I learned to never put a filter between the tank and the filter. I had a Pontiac with a big 462 custom quadrajet. It never ran that great until I ran dual 3/8" steel lines from the fuel cell dual sump to a 3/8" tee I put into the mechanical fuel pump. It was like adding another 50 horses to the engine. I was amazed at how much better that engine ran above 4000 rpm.. It had a RA IV 041 cam that was pretty lumpy, I ended up running straight timing to get better bottom end street power. The new owner changed the cam for the 068 and wow what a difference!!
I guess the glass fuel filter shown by jimmy six and used by car manufacturers for years no longer passes muster.
The glass one shown by VANDENPLAS came apart and covered the side of the avatar car with gas. I don't know how it did not ignite. They are junk and dangerous.
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