Before I begin a little back story, I inherited my 30 ford coupe from my grandparents estate back in late November. My grandfather built the car in the early to mid 50's. It was last driven by my dad in 71 just after my parents were married and graduated high-school, so it's sat for 49 1/2 years before I got it. The cars in good shape, 42 ford juice brakes tube shocks looks like my grandfather might have had it as a banger. I'm planning on keeping the car as original as my grandfather had it or would have wanted it completed (his finger prints are allover my 48 ford f1 on how it was built). Ok my issue is my engine runs, but it's cracked in 3 places, 2 were previously repaired but failed. I'm on the list for one of Terry Burtz new blocks, I'm also on the list for a new Stipe 340 cam. I also was able to get 2 of my grandfathers holley 94's. Been reading previous posts to get information, but still uncertain on a banger head, been thinking about a Thomas head or a winfield. My big thing is that I just want it to look like a period correct post war car. Not opposed to running different carbs, or even just 1 vs 2. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Nice looking car! Keeping it true to what it was is a great idea, your Dad and Granddad would like that I'm sure. How badly does the block leak? Can you 'temporarily' cure it with stop leak pellets? If so, get it running and driving, THEN start planning the big $$ banger. Stock blocks/engines can be found at reasonable prices, so consider an interim replacement. But most importantly...get it driving so you can evaluate what/when needs to be done. Enjoy!
I ran a Winfield 6-1 with a Model B cam, downdraft carb and Model B dist. Car was comfortable at 55 but 65 was possible for short stints on the freeway.
Nice car and great story. I run a Winfied yellow head in my banger powered speeedster. It's 6:1, which is pretty much the sweet spot for bangers with stock internals. Ford produced a "police head" back in the day for better performance, it was ~5.5:1. I have one on the shelf that I will run in my '29 pickup once I pull it together. My preference is cast iron over aluminum, eliminating risk of galvanic reaction. But plenty of guys run aluminum without problem, so my prefernce may or may not be based in actual scientific fact. Lot's of modern sources. Synder's sells original-looking heads in 5.5:1 and 6:1 configurarions for around $350. As to carbs, your primary period-correct options are Winfield or Stromberg. Strombergs are big bucks, Winfield's are astronomical bucks. Most guys will tell you duals are problematic and run a single. Check out the monthly Banger Meet thread; it starts with a list of great resources.
I actually have it running, I was surprised at how easy it was to resurrect it after it sat for over 49 years. My first plan is to let my parents use it as a date night car for there 50th anniversary in June. So I've been driving it all over just to make sure it will be flawless for that day. But I also know that with those cracks (and it's not sealing with stop leak I've tried even the ceramic one) it's on borrowed time. So I sold my jeep to start a banger build.
Thanks, I look forward to it. Our daughter rode in it for the first time yesterday. She actually had a blast riding in the rumble seat.
The new bottom end will for the most part be custom. I figured that I'll only have 1 chance to build this, so I'm on the list to get one of Terry Burtz new model a blocks. It has 5 mains vs the 3 and the crank is counter weighted and balanced and set up for pressurized oiling. It was also tested up past 5000 rpm with no issues.I'm set to get it around July or August. And because my car is already set up the way it is I figured it would be great as a banger build. Oh and the block looks identical to an original, the only difference is interior. Even uses a stock model a oil pump.
From what I heard so far is run a winfield head. I'm definitely not opposed to it, my issue is how good are the repo ones? My work schedule keeps me from going to most swap meets so finding an original is almost out of the question. I like the Thomas head for how thick it is but I'm not crazy about cooling fins, makes me think of motor cycles and vw's. That and I want performance but most importantly is that I want it to look period correct as a post war banger either late 40's early 50's. I even have the original 30 ford rims, the 35 ford rims that are currently on it. Which my grandfather had the white walls installed. And my 48 f1 rims which I've held onto for the last 37 years. I even have a lead on a 36 ford transmission, that model a 2nd gear spacing is killing me.
Hey @Gerald Sleater Wow, with the engine work you've had done, sounds like you could easily go 7:1, maybe more. Afraid I can't help you on Winfield reproduction heads, mine's an orginal (and yes, hard to find). Again, I suggest checking in on the Hamb Banger Meet thread. They start a new thread every month, so the April thread is about played out and the May thread will start in a couple days. Watch the main board for it, introduce yourself, describe the engine and pose your questions. Those guys know their stuff. Again, great project!
Thanks, unfortunately I'm working my mills annual outage and had to put everything on hold. By chance do you know the compression ratio of the cyclone head? I'm getting a Stipe cam and they suggested a 7 to 1 head
I own a '29 Model A coupe and have been thinking of replacing a good working banger engine with a Burtz. Besides the cost of the Burtz block, camshaft, and flywheel, what else will I need? I'm trying to figure out total possible cost. Thanks in advance for anyone's input.
Unfortunately I still haven't received my Block yet so I can't answer that question. My Block is supposed to arrive in country within the next 2 weeks so hopefully I'll have an answer then. Until then I have purchased a stipe 340 cam and placed my deposit on a Charlie Yapp rocket 428 head. I'm hoping that I can re use some of my parts in my current engine but time will tell.
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