I did grind a form tool but didn't end up using it, as you say the chatter would be a problem on the little Myford lathe, did this with a rightangle parting tool with the compound slide set to 17 degrees, all done in back gear so nice and slow.
I've just widened an alternator pulley groove to fit the larger belt on my '28 Chevy saloon, didn't fancy a form tool with my Atlas lathe so like you I used the compound. I kept the faith 6 yrs before finally giving up on 6 volts! Almost got excited when I thought I'd found the holy grail laying in a field a couple of days ago, but nope, not that iconic period shape ☹️
Saw this for sale on Facebook today. Not mine, but cool... https://www.facebook.com/marketplac.../?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search
This is such a great build to follow. Your workmanship is simply outstanding. Can’t wait to see this on the Sands and having piloted our club (4 banger)Belly Tank at Pendine in 2019 I can assure you that you’re in for a real blast Keep up the good work. Duncan BCBillysCC Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Finished the tensioner pully, just got it mocked up in place with a bit of bar in the photo so next weeks job is to make a sliding mount for it, proably use slightly shorter belts as well to get max belt wrap and keep the tensioner away from the distributor. Got the old Ford distributor in just for mock up but will be machining up this Vertex magneto from a SBC with a couple of hour in the lathe it will be flathead compatable Vertex on the left for the belly tank and gonna do the Mallroy duel point while I'm at it and a stock Ford dizzy on the right for comparison.
Hi Carl gotta say your FED thread is awsome, I need to pick your brains, couple of questions I have are what blower ratio are you running? think your running a 3/71 blower like I'm planing. Ive set it up for 1 to 1 ratio but was thinking I could make a bigger crank pully to maybe run 20% overdriven, was going to get it all working and see what boost I get, want to keep boost reasonably low to start with. Second question is what size injectors are you running in the two port and have you got two or four injectors? Ive been studying some of Bob Szabo's books on MFI but stuggling to find much info on blown flathead injection setup. Engine build plan at the moment is Merc block (havent decided on bore yet its .020" over at the moment but will need at least another .020 to clean up) Merc 4" Crank with billet center main and line bore Merc heads machined for higher valve lift Isky 400jr cam Ross forged pistons Port job for block 3/71 blower v belt drive 1 to 1 ratio MFI planing a custom built two port ( may well run carbs to start with but long term plan is MFI) Well thats about the basics of it, youve obviously got experience with all this so any advise would be welcome.
my engine is a 304CI with Scat Crank and rods, Ross Pistons, Potvin 425 ground by Pete One on here, ported and relieved, 471 Blower, now with a 650 Holly double pumper I have tried 10% under and 10% over on the blower, under not enough boost, over was using copper gaskets as fuses as too much boost, am now running a 6" dia pulley on crank and a 5" blower pulley gives me 7-8 lbs of boost at 5000 and everything is happy. On the two port FI we still haven't gotten the bugs worked out yet that's why I'm going back to gas for Mays Race. I think I am having cavitation problems with the pump feeding from a 2 gallon Moon tank. I need more time to figure it all out and I'm getting impatient so its back to gas for may. Could also be the four port that I made into a two port may be part of the problem, started out with 4- 40 nozzles, to fat went with 4-38's and still no help ...............sent you a pm if you would like to talk........... Fusable links
Thanks for the reply Carl great info, the state of that head gasket I'm gonna have a good read through your FED thread when I get time..its long.
Another full frontal shoot this time with the Vertex mag and idler mount added. Got both the Vertex and Mallory casings turned down this week just waiting on a couple of drive gears from speedway so I can put them back together.
Nice work. I love the pulley set. Was there a reason you made the idler pulley with Vees and wrapped the belts around them on the outside versus just having the belts inside of the idler and enabling you to have a plain round idler pressing on the outside of the belts?
It would have been easyer to do as you said and would give more belt wrap but this setup allows a bit more space for a Hilborn PG150 fuel pump to be grafted onto the the timing gear cover, I want to keep the pump as tight to the block as possible as there wont be much room in front of the engine. Waiting for an aluminium timing cover to arrive before I graft on a spud bearing and pump mount.
Had lots of time on the tank over the weekend and last couple of evenings. Took it all apart as I wanted to lower the front crossmember two inch to give better ground clearence and also to move the axle, engine gearbox back a couple of inches aswell as things were getting a bit too tight. All in bitz Welding it back together.. Could definetly do with a good chassis table, but this did the job.... and all back together with the fire wall welded in I was finaly able to cut the top rear half of the tank to fit, been dying to do this to get more of a image of what its gonna look like finished.
Looking good. You run out of room very fast, mine is a 20" extended version of the P-38 Tank and i have a Willys 4 and its still a tight fit. JW
Had a JD2 manual tube bender delivered this week, so I had my can of spinich put on my strong man pants and set about bending up the first hoop of the roll cage, this is 1 3/4 tube so takes a bit of effort. Also made steering box mount and mocked up colum with a bit of tube. Been trying to think of a away to make the column telescopic one for safety but also so the steering yoke and column could be slid forward for getting in and out of the tank easyer, might just stick with a quick realease on the yoke but would be funky with a telescopic setup. Any ideas on this let me know.
Most all the 70's GM columns we used to use in the 80's had a double D inner shaft with a corresponding D outer tube. The two parts were held together, kept from sliding, with pins made of plastic. In an accident the pins would shear. You could use the same parts without the plastic pins if you could devise a way to keep the wheel in place during driving, but slidable to let you wiggle out. A removeable plastic lock pin?
Nice job on the roll bar. Compound bends done manually that close together is not an easy task. I like the idea of the telescopic column. I think some Fords used flat metal spring clips in a detent similar to the GM plastic devices. I'm sure you can find something that is compact and will work. Maybe Bergeson has an off-the-shelf assembly that will suffice. BTW I love the steering wheel. It looks aircraft in origin. Do you know the type of plane? (I hope its HAMB friendly LOL).
You shouldn't need a telescopic column for safety as your harness will hold you firmly in your seat but you need a deep steering wheel with a quick release hub so you can get in and out and will need to demonstrate an ''emergency bale out''. JW
I took this photo of a Belly tank on my last trip to Bonneville to use as a reference. With the wheel and hub removed it give much more access. JW
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