Hot Rods 55 customline rear end swap

Hey guys

So I want to put a 9 inch Ford rear end into my customline when I do some back suspension work, kind of a kill two birds with one stone. I have a couple questions as I’m new to this.

I believe the measurement for mine is 57 inches. Do I NEED that same exact size or can I be flexible an inch or two. I like the way the wheels sit so I’d try and keep 57.

What ratios would you guys recommend? I have no idea about how they translate. But here’s the end goal. I’d like the set up to be more for street as I will be doing much more of that, and would like to be able to do highway speeds and not be at 4500 rpm. The y block will be rebuilt and hopefully push around 300 go, can’t imagine more then 350. I have a 3 speed manual right now but I am planning on swapping to an AOD auto. I know I’ll need a new drive shaft for the both to work but If I need one for a newer rear end will it still link to the 3 speed trans? Or will I have to do this all in one go to make it work.

And lastly, I have done some research and seen the beautiful ready to go 2-3k rear ends. Im hoping I won’t have to spend that cos it would really delay the rest of the car and I’m not pushing 600 plus at the drag strip. I have seen some nice housing axle and bearing combos for around 800, and I don’t have many junkyards near me but I’m searching on Craigslist and other websites. Does anyone know anyone who’s got one for sale? And is there anything I should avoid? Is there a good way to test it with out it being installed ?

Thanks
Dan


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Don't know about a 9 inch but an 8 inch from a Maverick is 56 1/2" WMS to WMS. A mid '60's Mustang, Falcon, or Comet is a tad wider at 57" IIRC. Both will have the correct 5 on 4 1/2' bolt pattern (from a V8 not a six) If the rear tire clearance on your '55 is anything like that on my "54 Ranch Wagon you don't want to go any wider than what you have. A 9 inch from a '57 or so Wagon might be close but good luck finding one. My guess is that if you are dead set on a 9 inch you'll end up having to have it narrowed but of course I could be wrong. Regardless you'll most likely have to relocate the spring perches.
Here's an 8 inch Maverick not that far from you:
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/fontana-ford-inch-rear-end-lug-maverick/7297556361.html

 

I'd really recommend a Ford 8.8 instead. The days of cheap 9"s are gone, you can get a 8.8 for 1/2 or less and they're more than strong enough for a Y-block. Not quite as tough as a 9", but very close. You may have to narrow the 8.8 (depending on what you source it out of) and try to stay within roughly the same width as what's there. As the '55-56 Fords have very narrow rear wheel wells, I'd try to decide what wheel/tire combo I want (tire/wheel width, wheel back spacing) so if you need to 'adjust' axle width somewhat you can do it now. Someone can give you a better low-down on which vehicles to look for as a donor.

I suspect you'll have to do the driveshaft twice if you change the trans. As far as ratio, 3.55 is a common 8.8 ratio, as is 3.73, not something you can say about secondhand 9s or 8s. The 3.55 will be better without the OD, but I'd still lean towards the 3.73. That will make the car 'lively' and work very well with OD. Quite a few 8.8s will be found with OEM limited-slip, another money saver.

 

Some Ford Ranger 8.8’s are between 56-7” and make good swaps.you can cut an Explorer on one side to fit too. 57-9 Ford 9” are bolt in if you can find them. U-joints are different. 8” Fords fit too but are getting harder and are technically obsolete.
A 300 hp y-block has some serious $$$ in it. 350hp is way more. 4 barrel intakes were only made one yr and guys know they're worth today. 2 aluminum ones are made if you can find one and are nearing $600. Y’s are not SBF’s or SBC’s. Being optimistic is great but being realistic with a Y-block is more a conservative approach.
If your going AOD, find a donor Mustang and swap it all into your 55. An AOD adapter is not inexpensive and you still need a trans.
You’ve got some great plans but you need to think each one through.

 

What THEY^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^said!
9" ers from a 57-59 wagon will 'fit' but don't hold your breathe finding one. On the other hand 8.8'ers are laying around like firewood!
I'd love to see a Y-block Ford that would 'stress' an 8.8"!
Strength-wise........they are better than an 8"(which would be plenty for a Y-block!) and a toss-up with a stock 9"(IF available)
Put in an 8.8 and......... lie-about-it! Most of these kidz can't tell the diff anyway!
6sally6

 

From the back they look like a Bird or pick-up..

 

Towards the bottom of the page.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-mild-custom-transformation-mamas-55.1119265/page-4

 

One other item, maybe. If it's got the original 55 wheels they've got the small center hole. This is normally only a problem with front disc's (turn the hub down, replace the wheels, etc) but I imagine it could be a problem on the rear also. Probably a solution too, I just don't know it.

 

I ended up ordering new wheels for mine. It’s not worth the effort to try and mill out the centers.

 

Some of the earlier Rangers had 8.8's that were 56 1/2 WMS to WMS. Some of the 4x4's had 3.73's with posi's.
@gimpyshotrods has some good info on the 8.8 Ranger rear ends. If he doesn't chime in you might want to PM him.

 

You can get a disc brake kit that uses the original spindle. No need for non-stock wheels if that what you want.

 

If that 8 inch close to you mentioned in an earlier posting is complete, it would be a good option. Only requires the spring perches to be moved in about 3/4" on each side. The emergency brake cables hook right up. The only drawback is most of those rears had a 3.00 ratio, which may be a little tall for an AOD. Finding a close width 9 inch out of a 57-59, whether a car or wagon, will be hard. The 8.8 is a very good alternative, and are usually priced well and easy to find.

 

Here's a 9 inch that is in your neck of the woods:
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/d/upland-ford-rear-end-mustang-falcon/7304743370.html
I am selling a Ford 9" rear end.
I believe this was the narrowest 9" that ford ever made.
measures just under 57.5” drum face to drum face.

 

8.8 for the win. Get one out of a mountaineer if you can (most likely to have posi and good gears) or an explorer in the 1997 range. Then you have disc brakes, good gears, and a rear end rated to more than you'd ever need. And theyre cheap and easy to find parts for.

Sent from my SM-G975U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Specs on the 8.8" rears and how to Salvage Yard I.D. them. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml You might look for a 1982-86 Crown Vic drive shaft too, close to perfect length and has the correct front yoke for the AOD. I used one in my '54 Ford with an 5.0 & AOD seen here. bolted up to the stock rear with a 506 Prefection rear U-joint. The stock Crown Vic rear joint would bolt up to a Ranger or Explorer rear

 

Should you want to upgrade further watch this.

 

Hard to find but a straight bolt-in is the Dana 44 used in 1955-56 Ford Station wagons down side is brake parts are scarce.

 

Thanks for all the info guys



So after reading all that I have some thinking to do.
I originally wanted a 9 inch cos it’s easier to swap out third members and I wanted to be able to do that in the future if I ever needed to butttttt realizing I probably won’t ever race this, and that leaving a good city / highway gear ratio needed as main priority, a back up could be for cross country cruises if I ever do the power tour.

So knowing I can easily survive with a 8.8, I do have a buddy with a Ford crown vic I believe it’s late 90s or early 2000s that is a police interceptor and he’s pretty open to me having parts from it. I am pretty sure it has an 8.8.

I’ll have to take the measurements and see the width but if it is too wide, when you guys mention chopping it to shorten it are there any need parts I need to get like axles im guessing ?

He has a drive shaft on there too and for all I know he has an AOD on it as well so I may be in some serious luck here. IF the drive shaft were not to fit would I just order a correct length one, do all the I guess, connection points like where the shaft meets the trans and the shaft meets the diff ( I believe they’re called yokes) are they usually all the same ? Or can be they be different like
Bolt patterns


Thanks

Dan


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Great point, going to look at wheels for the future today so know. Will make notes of that and factor that into the specs


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Oh yeah, that y block build will not be cheap, but I do feel like at least keeping the y block in there. I will say the engine being built up is last on my list for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Going to look up the sizes and years on the rangers and explorers as I do feel I should
Be able to find those.

Looks like the rear end in my
Buddies crown Vic is a 8.8. Getting width now. His trans is an updated AOD sounds like it has electrics and needs a pcm it said so I guess that will be too new for me. I guess I’m looking for AOD only not aod e or anything past that. Sucks you can’t just gut the pcm !!!




Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

A town car rearend will be way too wide for your car.

You can shorten the tubes and then use stock axles from an 8.8 equipped car that was narrower stock, but it’s probably easier to just look for an 8.8 that’s already the right width.

For an AOD you want the earlier non electronic controlled one unless you’re willing to buy an expensive aftermarket controller.

Grab the driveshaft, at least it will have ends you can probably use to have a correct length shaft made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Im all for it


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

To give you an idea of just how tight the wheelwells are, I put 235/75R-15s on early '70s 15x6 OEM wheels on a '56 2-dr I used to have and they would lightly rub on both sides of the inner wheelwell under certain conditions (although not both sides at the same time...LOL).

 

There is some real good, complete information on 8.8's here:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-8-8-inch-rear-axle-history-and-specs/

 

I'm not a Ford guy per say but, consider that the money to make 300hp in a Y-block will make an FE look downgight cheap...and you get piles of torque in the deal. Just sayin'

 

And that's definitely a traditional swap!

 

I don’t think it has the stock wheels. Theyre steelies the fronts are 14 and the rears are 15 at the moment,
Gonna switch em for more tail drag plus the discs needs 15 wheels for front. Im still researching what wheels I want and size etc flr finished product, that I have no idea. Any tips to check out good designs ? All the wheel companies I know are for tuner backgrounds and prob won’t look to good on here lol


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Worse case scenario is I can just throw a different ratio third member in ?


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

What you think about an 8.8 out of a crown Vic


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.