Technical ***April 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Fooling with Bangers***

Kato Kings on here Makes a Jeep T5 torque tube kit.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/t5-torque-tube-adapter-kit.1202893/#post-13989613

 

Miller High speed sells both adapter for AA bell to T-5 and T-5 4WD to torque tube.

http://millerhi-speedheads.com/


I used a stock A bell with my conversion but used the same rear adapter. there are details in my build thread that is listed in my signature.

 

The other option for T5 is go open driveline
More work on suspension
Nothing good is going to be cheap or easy
J

 

I used @Kato Kings adapter to a enclosed driveline on the Victoria. It bolts to the housing where the transfer case would go on the back of the Jeep T-5. The input shaft has to be shortened. I chose to have the driveline shortened and re-splined instead of welding. There was a fellow in Bakersfield CA that had the tapered cutter to do the machine work and he charged like $125.00. Got a buddy that passes thru there regularly and round tripped it for me.
I used a http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/bell_housings/index.html Vintage precision bellhousing.
It is a nice set up and he has some real good dimensional drawings you can download from his web site. Had to make room in the crossmember for the transmission so it takes cutting and welding. I cut the brackets on the back of the transmission case off too. Be careful and do not cut thru the case. Used a saws all. I didn't cut thru the case in the process, just a word of caution. I also worked with Vintage Precision and he had a couple 9" clutch discs made for me with the right offset and splines for the input shaft on the transmission. Use a 9" pressure plate for the early V8 Ford application. It takes machine work to modify the Model A or I have a bunch of stockers that have been modified already (and lightened) that I will let go real reasonable. I'll also sell you a Sterling Dampening flywheel You will use an AA throw out bearing and the input collar needs a bushing machined and fitted over it for the proper diameter. You also have to shorten up the radius rods, but it is easily done if you can read a tape measure and have access to a welder. I have a T-5 as described, a TK-5 that is out of a '83 to '87 Ford Ranger, Bronco II or van...and a Mitchell driveline Over Drive with their transmission conversion in the main box that gives it the synchro 2nd and 3rd. The T-5 5 is money well spent and I'd never do a Mitchell anything again based on my experience. You can do the T-5 for way less than the Mitchell. The TK-5 is an orphan and shifters are unobtainium so if you go that route make absolutely sure that you get a transmission with a good shifter....the good shifter is worth more than the transmission. I also found it shifts way better with ATF for gear lube
My $.02 and you will really like the final outcome. It is well worth the effort. Start gathering parts while you drive what you have....

 

my car is open drive shaft with t-5 . small area to mess with closed drive shaft

 

Thanks for everyone’s advice. Very much appreciated. It still sounds a bit too involved for me at this point. I’m sure the more I read and research I will get a better feel for how this should go. I hope to eventually talk to some of you who have done this to ask some questions and get some clarifications.

I think I’d like to stay closed drive shaft to stay a bit more on the original/traditional side. TM



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Some of the stuff in my $3000 model a parts grab bag. See HAMB classifieds

 

What's the skinny on that head? Never heard of "Donovan" before.

 

With the baby in the way, it’s hard to work on the cars.

Spent a few hours today yanking the A front end out, and throwing this 32 heavy on!!

Using it as a mock-up, I got a dropped and drilled one coming!

 

That Donovan head is cool. Haven't seen one for many years.
Couldn't find your ad. Got a link?

 

Ed Donovan and Arnold Birner, two Old Boys having fun and made the Donovan "D" motors.
http://donovanengines.com/

John

 

Oh boy, those timing cover and side timing covers sure look rad!! I wonder how light they are compared to the stock ones.

 

Great oil pressure, what pump? or did I miss that part?

 

Damn Covid 19, if it wasn't for that I would be in , would be leaving for Colorado next weekend . At the moment it will cost me $7k to come back home and do the isolation thing.

 

Probably not as light, I don't think the side cover will fit on the "A" motor, not sure about the "B".
The front cover has added material for placing a pump in front of the cam gear.
The "D" block is just hella stout, the way a race motor should be built.

J

 

Or you can go with a V8 transmission and get synchro 2nd and 3rd..then hang a mitchell OD. I like the model A transmission, with higher compression it shifts quicker. Double clutching and speed matching for downshifts makes it an A..if your not racing. You can speed shift the mitchell so in traffic you can roll hard from ten mph to 50 with one slap shift....gap that punk in a kia...

 

Modern systems use relays to limit amperage the control switches. As a benefit, the relay based system also allows the use of a main control relay, so you can cut the power to function the system without using a battery cutoff switch.The relays fire with 150 milliamps,so you can use lightweight switching..used a limit switch for my stoplight switch for instance..

 

Here's the ad:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/build-a-speedster.1226242/

For what ever reason, unable to post pix yesterdayu

 

^^^^^^Thanks, Denis.

 

It appears that we're finally going to be able to put my "Banger" engine'd race car on a race track! If it comes off we may have a "PreWar" Group race at Sonoma Raceway (Sear's Point) at the end of this month! Fingers are crossed! Hopefully we'll have some "GREAT" competition!

 

Would love to meet up and get interview sometime and a video of the car!
I shoot for Speed and Kulture / Rod and Style and we would LOVE to have some vintage history on our channel.

 

We'll be racing at Buttonwillow Raceway (West of Bakersfield at I-5 & Lerdo Highway) May 15th and 16th!
We'll probably be at Laguna Seca during the Monterey Car Week for August 7th to the 23rd
We also participate; but don't run the car at the Santa Margarita Ranch Time Trials June 26th. I'll be working as the the track announcer!

 

Modified A pump with early V8 gears.
They are the same diameter as the A/B gears but longer. Add a spacer plate with the same internal profile as the housing. Pay attention to the end clearance to the cover as little as possible to eliminate bypass...

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At


This is on Joe Abbins dyno at the moment.
I don't know much about it other than I believe it is Ron Coopers. It was supposed to have done 94hp on a previous pull but the dizzy was acting flakey. A new dizzy is or has been installed and there is another session this Saturday.
I have an invite so I'm planning on checking it out. It is pretty and there is stuff on it that I need to understand.
I also have been told that it is a babbit engine and he wants the dyno pull to be limited to 3000 rpm.
I believe it is a Thomas head and has a Stipe cam

 

I wondered where that ended up. Looked at it in 2018 but was out of my price range. Had lots of cool stuff that was custom machined.

 

That's badass! I plan on painting my banger CAT yellow.
Mind posting more photos of it? The distributor, oil pan, and V belt pulley tensioner all look super interesting to me.

 

Really,
I guess I missed it. In the swap meet area at the Hill Climb in Colorado?

 

I'll definitely take some more photos and post them

 

Was for sale at the twin city's roadster swap fall of 2018.Was put together by a guy out of central Minnesota. Had this other one for sale plus additional parts to build more.The price on the yellow one was rather expensive but it did have a lot of expensive parts.

 

This was the details.I erased the price to keep all guessing