RockAuto shows a fuel filter without a return line. Quick check - Look for a 3rd port on your existing fuel filter - the return line will be a smaller 1/4 inch hose.
??? is there a reason you do not want a new factory style tank that will bolt right in ??? bought one for my 61 Dart a few years back.
I haven't been able to find one that is currently reasonably priced! I would love to find one that would bolt right back into place!
what I did when pricing a gas tank was figuring out the cost of being on the side of the road trying to clear out my fuel lines, and a possible tow or missing an event. seems pretty cheap after you factor that in to the mix.
Mid 60's. 65 and 66 for sure Impalas and Biscaynes along with the Caprice all had the same tank that filled behind the license plate.
A lot of tanks from different cars will likely fit where your tank is, but unless the tank your putting in is from a Chrysler, Plymouth, or Dodge, the original gas gauge probably won't work. You can buy just a gas gauge that will match the tank your using, but you will need to know the year of the tank, and what it came out of. Gene
i was on ebay yesterday looking for a tank for a 68 dart there were several pages of new tank's for early mopar's including your car starting at 180 dollar's to 300 dollar's. how much more affordable could that be, other than it's your's for free which is highly unlikely. how hard did you search?
Keeping everyone updated, I do plan on putting in the correct fuel tank at some point so try and be nice haha. For now I am using a 1970 mustang tank (paid 40 bucks for it), got it to fit perfectly using my straps without cutting anything. Next plan is fuel line, I bought a roll of it am going to run a new one from tank to fuel pump. Had a baby shower this weekend and today was wet and only have grass/gravel to work on. Will try and get that ran this week!
Nice going! Yeah, a repro Ford Mustang tank is probably going to be about the least expensive new tank. What are you using for fuel lines? I got some of that nickel/copper line from Amazon, good thing too because my OT project had a few pinholes in the original line way up high where I couldn't see it.
I bought a roll of aluminum from Jegs, live about 20 miles absolutely love going in, like a kid in a candy store! My old lines had who knows what all in it, after draining the old fuel tank I had no choice but run new lines.
Well thought I would give a little update, I know it has been a while....COVID has taken its toll on everyone things got crazy! Anyway, the fuel tank that I had bought was a bust...so I ended up going with a fuel cell in the trunk as a temporary measure to be able to cruise it. Runs like a champ was able to cruise it around for a couple weeks. Has a vacuum leak for sure, (she doesn't like coming to stop signs). Anyway have another problem..was installing some aftermarket gauges yesterday, the temp gauge on the car doesn't work, and not not trust the dummy light and needed a separate gas gauge for my new fuel cell. So I installed them all went to fire it up it cranked, fired for a second and lunged forward (in neutral) it did this three times, then I realized the throttle return spring was disconnected so I could get to the oil pressure sender. I figured I had just flooded it. I hooked the spring back up and now it just cranks cranks and cranks. This car always fire right up fist key turn not matter how long I waited to start or how cold it was. Any thoughts guys??
That is what I thought, it is the push button, and I went through all the gears and back to neutral and still just cranks. But before it never cranked while in gear, so it shouldn't crank then right?
The push buttons use cables & they can get out of adjustment. Probably can find help at www.forwardlook.net in the Forums
I had a '62 Chrysler with the same trans and my cable needed to be adjusted too. It's not too hard, get it up high on jack stands, take the trans pan off, and watch the cable movement inside the trans while someone else pushes the buttons. The cable might be stretched or something, not fully engaging a certain gear. It likely has some kind of neutral safety switch to keep it from starting in gear so even if the button for Neutral is in, it may not start. It's common, just an adjustment, will cost you nothing but the cost of replacing whatever trans fluid you drain out to get the pan off, and that would be a good idea to change anyway. Also, for the vacuum leak, I'm not sure what '61 has but my '60 Plymouth has some vacuum lines that run to the heater control and they're known to go bad, once a line starts leaking your idle goes away quick. If you're not going to use the heater right away you might just plug that up for now and see if it solves your vacuum issue.
Yours is a first series Dart which was a full size C body car that had a lot of interchange possibilities with the full size Plymouths, Dodges and Chryslers. In 1961 - 62 Dodge's compact offering was called the Lancer. Later they gave the name Dart to the compact A body car. You might as well bite the bullet and buy the proper gas tank. I imagine with what you have wasted on a Mustang tank and fuel cell and gauge package you have already spent most of what the right tank would cost. It won't hurt so much if you imagine the life of the tank as 50 years and spread out the investment over that time. As for why it won't start you must have messed up something. I would go over the ignition wiring carefully looking for a wire that got knocked loose off the ballast resistor, coil, or distributor and if they check out ok, start testing for spark and see if power is getting to the coil, and the points are switching the power off and on. Don't start tearing things apart and replacing parts until you diagnose the problem and figure out what it is.
^^^^^what Rusty said^^^^^^ Now, buy a service manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For the tank, have you even called John at Big M? Also, Wildcat Mopars 503-668-7786 .
I wouldn't even mess with a used tank when you can buy a new one. I know $275 seems like a lot of money but wait till you try cleaning out and repairing an old tank. You might find one cheap at a local junk yard, a plastic one out of a late model car, and it would have the advantage of never rusting. But finding one to fit, and getting the fuel filler and gas gauge to work would be a real challenge.
Hello everyone! Sorry for the big lay off between my last post and now.....a lot has happened. It got cold, and I do not have a garage or shop and hate working with my hands in the cold haha. Also my wonderful baby boy was born December 17th big old boy at 8lbs 15 oz! So anyway here in the beautiful state of Ohio it's just starting to get nice. So I have done quite a bit to the car, got it running...turns out the Ballast Resistor was crap. So after a new one of those, new coil, cap, rotor and plugs she is running better than ever. Ended up using a fuel cell in the trunk and ran a new line for now and am using an aftermarket fuel gauge. Had to use hood pins because the underside of the hood was rusted so bad it kept flopping like it was going to fly up going 35 mph to the gas station haha. Anyway GLAD TO BE BACK!
Ready made football player. I bet that is what your wife said. Congratulations to you and I hope all are doing well.
Alright everyone, onto the next couple things to get it going. First of all I got all 5 seat belts installed over the weekend and took my oldest (5 years old) for his first cruise and he was grinning from ear to ear! The two next big things I am working on are the lights and parking brake. When I hit the light switch every light but my four headlights kick on. Is it possible all four headlights are bad? The second thing is the parking park, the pedal is frozen solid no movement what so ever, I was going to get new shoes and try and tear it apart. I'm really tired of chocking the wheels every time I park it. Lastly is engine temp, all my gauges work except for the temp gauge. Tried installing an aftermarket one, by the spot for the sender didn't fit with any adapter. Should I just try and find a new sender or I've seen those things they sell at Jegs that is inline with the radiator hose. Sorry for the long winded just what I've noticed after the weekend. Also try and keep the comments nice, I'm noob and trying to learn all I can!
only two headlights should come on at a time. Could be the dimmer switch on the floor. I have had several that would shut all the lights off when used. Sometimes kick it a few more times and they'll come back.
Alright thank you, I will check that out because right now I have cheap Autozone off road lights zip tied to the grill to be able to drive at night haha.
You're aware that the parking brake is a drum on the back of the transmission, operated with a cable, correct? They're self-contained and fairly simple. My '60 Plymouth one didn't work for shit and when I took it apart discovered all of the meat on the shoes was gone, it was metal against metal. I riveted replacement liners to the shoes and it worked nicely again. If yours is frozen, it's entirely possible it's the cable that's stuck. Might want to try to spray penetrating oil down the cable's sheath from the top and all around underneath the car in the hopes the cable frees up. Headlights could be any number of things, but a test light will really help here. Test for power at the dimmer switch, and power at the headlight bulb sockets. Also check the grounds for the headlights, I think they are just a wire sheetmetal screwed to the core support. If the car is rusty those are often corroded or broken off. Easy fix if that's what you find.
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