Lifting the body off the roadster, the dipstick tube on the 276 Hemi somehow got hooked on, I'm guessing, the throttle linkage on the firewall, and broke off at the block. It's not a big deal, just a reminder to slow down and be more careful. The question is, what's the best way, without damaging something else or getting debris down in the block, to extract this little stub? I tried gently tapping a sharp screwdriver blade under the lip to pry it up, that just bent the lip. Wouldn't an EasyOut just push it harder against the block? Any hints before I just epoxy the two halves together and hope for the best? At worst it'd be a source for a little oil leak...
Can you tap a self tapping screw into it, then pull it all out together? Might need a little heat to expand the block a tiny bit. Or maybe drive a small thin punch between the tube and block to cause it to fold inward, then take needle nose pliers and pull it out?
Been there, and done that. I used my body slide hammer to get it out. Ground up an old bolt to make a end on the bolt that slid inside the tube and had a hook on the end to catch on the edge of the tube. Then just held it against one side as I slid the hammer to tap it out. Took awhile to get it moved, but once it came out enough to grasp with vise grip pliers I pulled it right out.
Yep or maybe tap it with a tap and then use a bolt, if it turns when trying to tap, all the better, turn and pull it out.... hopefully......
Putting a screw in it will tend to expand it. Can you stick a piece of round stock or a bolt in it and tack weld it in? Then, you could tug on that. You might be able to tap it out from the bottom if you remove the pan.
Epoxy a little sleeve in there maybe an old piece of copper tube or similar then epoxy the 2 parts back together should be fine. Until its not..
First, be careful about applying any torch heat to the area around the tube as you may ignite the oil/gas fumes in the pan. Then I would use a piece of wire to find out how far the dipstick protrudes into the pan. Next are a couple of ideas. Get a rod that just fits inside the tube. May have to gently rotate it in a hand drill while holding it against a belt sander to get it to a good fit. Just a little loose. Spray some carb cleaner inside the tube and swab it till the q tips are clean. Heat with a torch to burn impurities away. Cool then clean once more. Then make serations on the rod and stick it in the tube and pack some epoxy in around it and let it harden overnight. On the other end of the rod, you want something that you can work like a slide hammer. This way you do not burr or bend the bottom of the tube. Heat the block to get it good and warm and heat the rod to get it warm. May need a buddy to help. When you have them both good and warm, slip the rod into the tube and apply silver solder. Continue to heat the rod till the silver solder melts and flows down. Don't put the heat directly on the joint but heat around it. Too much heat will produce a black residue and ruin the connection. Might be better to get the solder onto the rod and let it cool. Then heat the block with a mapp/or acy torch cause its harder to get warm. Then start heating the rod and push it into the tube . Again, be conscious of the fact that applying heat just might ignite fumes in the oil pan. Anything you push all the way to the bottom of the tube to grab the bottom edge will most likely deform the bottom and prevent removal. If the dipstick is curved as it enters the pan, you probably can't get it out from the outside and will need to remove the pan. If you don't fix it right, you will regret it later.....probably at the worst time. Murphys Law
Seems like a seal puller on a slide hammer could work if you can make sure your on the bottom of the tube and not the block.
An easy-out might work. Many styles here: https://www.google.com/search?q=eas...UTqp4KHYy9D_4Q_AUoA3oECBYQAw&biw=1280&bih=800
IMO, pushing some grease down the tube and tapping the tube for a bolt or eye bolt is the least difficult and most likely to succeed ....as suggested in a few of the prior posts. Just adding my endorsement to that method. Ray
<<IMO, pushing some grease down the tube and taping the tube for a bolt or eye bolt is the least difficult and most likely to succeed ....as suggested in a few of the prior posts. Just adding my endorsement to that method.>> Ray Add my endorsement to the suggested method. If there were some occurrence short of cracking the block, then an alternate method could still be applied.
I’m with the slide hammer idea. Make some sort of hook to go in the slide hammer and work it out moving around the circle.
I'd take a long bolt or rod, take the cutoff wheel and cut a "barb", or bend a barb on the end that'll hook on the other end of the broken tube. Then try to pull it with that.
Better you, than me! what a crappy thing to have happen. good luck with it, I expect it will keep you busy for hours.
If it cant be hooked and pulled out then there maybe another way. Tap one edge of the tube in then work down that edge with an awl. Gently prying to push it in & working down ward to create a small channel down one side of the tube. Make it so there is room to get one side of the needle nose pliers in a good depth in the channel between the tube & block . With the pliers deep on both sides then grab the tube tight & give it a strong rotate so that the tube collapses inward along its length. Like a key on a spam can. That reduces its diameter so it should come loose & pull out.
Stick a cork in it. Weld the broken bit to the dip stick so it reads correctly and mount it to the firewall.
Then there is the “I can do it” method. Hacksaw blade Grease to catch the debris, slice it and peel it and pull it out. I have a blade holder that just puts the blade end out. I dunno, I’d it out yet? Other thing is maybe a metric tap and bolt would lessen expansion on the tube. I’d think just a bit of a “bite” on threads would do it. It’s not like knocking out a bearing with tight clearance. Right?
Lots of YouTube videos on this, using many of the techniques mentioned here. Many end badly. I have one broken off flush with the block on my ot v10 dump truck. Looks like I will have to remove the exhaust manifold on that, which I have to do anyway to replace the broken studs. Many end up pounding the stub into the pan and fishing it out through the drain plug.
I just did one very recently on a 360 dodge, used an easy out to get it turning and got it out using a screwdriver to pry while turning Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You can try any or all of the above mentioned techniques, but very important, be completely sober while attempting the operation!
I have done exactly this with a small block chevy broken off dip stick tube. I took a bolt (I think 1/4 20 ) and cut some small grooves in it to make it self tapping, gently threaded it in and used a small slide hammer to slowly pull it out. Took about 15 min.
Before you choose a method, be sure you don't compound the problem. My concern with some of the suggestions is that you could break the cast iron off the block if you try wedging something down the side to collapse the tube. If you insert a rod with a hook on the bottom you may distort the tube enough to keep it from coming out. You also might catch the edge of the cast iron and chip it as you pull the tube upward. I would try the slide hammer with a self tapping screw first because its pretty easy......but if that don't work I would try the solder or just go ahead and pull the oil pan. Just don't make a worse problem out of a bad one.
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