i have rounded and tapered the ends, lots of work. i have a vice out in the driveway i try to use for massive grinding projects so the snot doesn't fly everywhere. i would do ,maybe two ends each day after work, that was enough
A few years back while pulling in my driveway after gassing up my 1929 Model A the deputy followed me in and when I parked he got out. Walking up behind me I could see in the mirror he was looking very intently at my 1929 YOM license plate. The Deputy knew me and said, Chuck I know your license plate is legal but what are the procedures for getting one approved. I opened the door to get out and he exclaimed, "You can't drive that car like that." pointing at the milk crate I had been sitting on. I just said, "you just followed me 6 miles from the gas station. Did I break any laws?". As far as the mechanical brakes, yes as long as they are sound and adjusted but they need maintenance unlike the "juice brakes".
i drove my 34 coupe half the summer this year sitting on a wooden box. the real seat was dropped off at the upholstery guy last feb. said it would be done in april, in about july i got sick of the wooden box and borrowed some early lowback vw buckets, mounted them on a hunk of plywood, then got the real seat in october! i swear, i will never hire anybody ever again to do anything. thats the way it always goes
Hmm, it appears that this glove has learned the universal sign of hot Rodder friendship. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
It’s a small victory but I’ll take it. Had a few minutes to spare in the garage so I flipped the front spring and got it hung on the frame. Right away, I realized the spring doesn’t have all it’s leafs as the u-bolts are a bit long. When I took it all apart, I noticed a bunch of washers on the original cross threaded U-bolts....I now know why. What are some thoughts on sorting this out? I’m thinking: run a die down the u-bolts and re-drill the cotter pin hole, fab up a leaf spacer, add washers, or just buy a new leaf.
Hay, as a fellow Colo-raden I'm sure you could find body parts or even a Whole body @ Berts! in Englewood. Or I could hook you up with a T roadster body.
Where in CO are yah? I stop by Bert’s at least once a week these days, they’ve got my motor at the moment. I’m sure Steve would let me know if they get a good body.
What a great way to build a rod, keeps you focused on the suspension, etc. gives you time to then look for the right body to put on it and probably at a price and in the condition you want. Heck, even a stripped out Model A body couldn’t be missing much “needed” stuff, right?
Front and rear suspension in for good. Took out 3 springs in the rear and needed to modify the rear clip bars to make up for the difference. Placed the smallest spring under the main spring...it all tightened up nicely. Spindles are painted and installed with new bearing and bushings, used the king pins that came with the car. Against better judgement, I used the original perches that looked like they’d been through a Canadian bar fight, the new nuts were forced into place like a shotgun wedding. Brake crosshaft is also on and moving freely. Lost some paint on the springs but that’s an easy fix. I’m convinced that building this car is 90% cleaning and painting while 10% is actually getting shit done.
lookin good. usually model A front springs have clipped corner ends. yours are straight, like 32-34. must have got swapped out years ago. now you have bragging rights with " 32 parts" !
Came home with a box full of parts to put hubs and brakes back on the car. At over $600, I had a bit of sticker shock. Oh well, if you’re gonna do it....do it right. My drums are measuring between .125” and .130” so I guess that’s good. Went ahead and stripped em down and painted them. They’ll get new bearings tomorrow. Backing plates will get cleaned and freshened up as well. After everything goes back together, the drums will get turned, really hoping they can be used. The guy(s) who had the car before me did a terrible booger weld job on many of the rear wheel studs. Even with a 1/4” of jelly welds, the studs were still loose. With nothing to lose, I used a 3/16” drill bit to drill 2 holes on each side of the back side of the studs and really put a hot weld fill in. They’re not going anywhere now. After a ton more cleaning, painting and wrenching....the car should be a roller this weekend. The guys at the shop said my engine is next in line and will be torn into next week. Next chapter: the transmission.
Mechanical brakes can work well if the car is a rarely driven toy.The problem is they take a lot of time to keep them working well if you use the car daily. Hydraulic brakes from 39-48 are pretty crappy too. I put Bendix self adjusting brakes on everything. They adjust evenly and rarely need attention. I dont drive any modern cars so I want good brakes with low maintenance
Well adjusted mechanical brakes are fine anything else is fake news.I started the other way around with just a body,still a lot of work
Yes dodge brothers i like odd ball stuff.Body was purchased at a long time local collectors estate auction.Think it was inside for along time.Its rough in a few spots but savable all i can afford for a roadster.
Missed breakfast, lunch and dinner but.....it’s officially a roller. From being trailered to becoming a roller in exactly 2 weeks, I’m exhausted. Right now it sits perfectly level at 21” front to back. It’ll be interesting to see how she sits when done. I may get lucky and not have to change a thing.
The Jalopy Journal
