General questions: What is the go-to size for fabbing replacement support ribs under the floor and trunk? The local metals supermarket has a good selection of cold rolled (as well as hot rolled) steel. I’m thinking cold rolled rectangular tubing, probably 3”x1”x.065” ? Also the 39 Poncho floor is in fairly fair shape so I want to scab in 18 gauge repair pieces. I’d like to bead roll the repair patches but thinking my Horrible Freight bead roller won’t handle 18 gauge. So while I’m there I’ll pick up some thick wall square tube to beef it up. If there’s any lessons learned on that front, let me know. Truth be told, I’m setting up to start boxing the frame also, but trying to get my head right while I’m in the store. My X frame has no X, having been hacked out by the PO. Once I finalize my frame repair concept, I’ll run that through the murder board for advice also.
i used 3/4" x 2" with 1/16" wall to extend the rusted off sub and cross rails... also the built the bulkhead, seat riser, other things...
Are you building a race car where a little extra weight matters or a street car where you want it to be strong and lasting
No automobile manufacturer has ever thought it necessary to add the extra weight of box tubing. I agree with witches hats
Take a strip of sheet metal and bend on a brake so it looks like an upside down witches hat. Or top hat. I know. Excellent graphic. @Dave 39
That is a great idea if you have a brake or free access to one. More expensive than tubing if you have to pay someone to bend them up.
Rolling beads is almost always better than building a rusty metal sandwich. Extra metal layers back ups like for seat braces seatbelt mounts, Or anything else you might bolt down to the floor.
1 x 2, 16 ga. is what my supplier sells, and I use. You NEED the extra support for the seat mounting, and it works in a pinch, for body mounts. I usually run 3, under the front seat mount, , the rear mount, and under the front of the back seat.
True, but my home fab (Horrible Freight Brake) limits me to 36” pieces. I’m thinking OEMs make things simple and inexpensive. In my case tubing definitely fits the “simple” requirement and I’m not limited in length.
I’ll try these on shorter pieces where I need support. Great idea that I never considered. I’m just limited on my brake length.
most of the cars we build don't end up doing winter commutes...so being a bit more rust prone might not be that big of an issue. It would be nice if we all had stamping presses or could find OEM style replacement parts for the floor and supports, but that doesn't always happen. Most original support metal was around 18 gauge. But if you're redesigning things, 16 gauge is probably a good move.
I mentioned this on a thread once before, so it might be of interest here. I bought a forty ford coupe one time and a previous owner had cut a complete floorboad out of a later model car with bucket seats. All he had to do was make the outside perimeter match the 40 floor he cut out. All the bracing was already there along with a tranny tunnel and even had mounts for the bucket seats............
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