Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

I think sanding might do the trick from what little I could find. I’ll likey switch back to the glass bead to see how it works on the main oil filter hsg. If it cleans up nice, I’ll redo the lid as well to see if it “removes” any embedded glass that might be there.

 

My spare carb complete with optional vent hole!


The third carb with the promised vegetation. This one also received the optional owner installed vent hole. There must have been a good reason for making that hole. I’ll go see if anyone on the Barn would know why.

 

Turns out those holes in the carbs were OEM but someone tried making them bigger or who knows what. Good to know! Thanks to all the great folks on the Barn I’m a little more informed.

My oil can arrived yesterday. I also realized I have the same oil filler cup on the rear of my generator as I have on the distributor, so it really will serve a purpose.



I re-blasted my oil filter hsg lid with glass bead and it appears to have removed any traces of glass that may have been embedded. I did try the glass bead on the filter canister hsg, but it just wasn’t coarse enough. Instead I used some crushed glass I had used several years ago on my truck bumpers. It seems to have worked. I used it on the oil pan clean out cover plate as well and got my first coat of engine paint on it and a coat of “Cast Aluminum” on filter hsg lid. Same as that used on the carb linkage and oil breather tube.

Oil filter hand screw for lid (not painted), lid (painted), filter hsg canister (not painted).


Oil pan clean out cover.

 

Attacked tbe oil pan today. Lots of small dings, and of course the forklift hole.

Draft tube before.


After.


Forklift tear before.


After.

 

Misc dings before...

 

After...

 

Not sure if pan is supposed to look like this around dipstick fitting. Doesn’t really matter as I don’t think I could ever get it flat if it is supposed to be that way. Tube is crooked and after heating and banging, the pot metal disintegrated...

 

Also got the oil filter cannister hsg painted.

 

Period pile of scrapyard forklift adventures...man that's one lucky oilpan...kind of reminds me of those toy story movies were being trashed is almost certain if not noticed by a one special youngun'...

Your it @Ziggster...

Love what your up to...I take it that Grand Canyon of a puncture will be welded up in stage 2?

​

 

Thanks @Stogy. I was actually really intimidated to tackle the big forklift tear. What you see is what it was after I had previously banged it out. All the tools I have are just what I have lying around. No fancy metal hammers and dollies.

This is it....Lol!


Yes, I’ll weld it up tomorrow, and clean off the rest of the grime, then blast. I may add a bead of braze material on the inside just to be sure if needed.

 

Well after two failed attempts to bend up a piece of vacuum line for my vacuum gauge, I get it right on the third attempt but I’m a 1/2” too short. I don’t know what I was thinking when I bent up the first two pieces as I didn’t add the “extra” length to make it to the T fitting. $hit!

 

It's good practice and not the end of the world. Next time make the woop-ti-doos and the 90, cut the final length after the fancy bending is done, and only then do the flare as the last step......... and don't forget to slide the female fitting on before you add the flare.

 

Yep. Did the first loop using the entire 8’ length, but had one of my kids helping me. Of course, they were still sleeping this morning, so no helping hands. No big deal. I’ll pick up another length next week, and will have one bent up again in 10 mins.

Started welding up the forklift tear in the oil pan.

First pass.




Second pass.

 

I think this is my 5th and last pass...

Before last weld touch-ip.


After last weld pass. Ended up blowing thru a couple spots a while back.


Looks I’ll have to replace a small section where I had a small rust hole. It course is always worse than you first think. Lol!

 

Finished result. There are a couple of high/low spots, but I think I’ll leave it be, and maybe try a bit of body filler.



But now I got to deal with this...


Decided I had no choice and started to grind out the cancer. Will tackle the rest tomorrow.

 

After 4-5 hrs I managed to get this little piece in. The welding machine is not feeding correctly now and stops and then starts. I guess I shouldn’t have left it in my garage since the summer. Lol! Oh well, I’ll have a quick look later to see what is up.




Another thing to remember - Do NOT touch metal with your finger even it you just heated it for a few seconds!

 

After some jig saw jiggery and a coupke hrs later the hole is patched! Still needs a bit of touch-up and I will likely try to add a bead of braze on the inside

 

Decided to take a bit of a break and bent up the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Not sure if this will be the final configuration yet.

 

Finished blasting my oil pan in my makeshift outdoor sand blasting “room”. Luckily it was only 0C (32F) outside. Need to get this thing done so I can start to button up my flathead.

Looking in.


Looking out to my neighbour’s place. Glad they went back into town...


“Finished” product.

 

Also picked up another length of 3/16” Cu-Ni brake line and reconfigcured the vacuum line a bit. Ordered some Gr 8 hardware from Battlefield/ Cat for my intake manifold and timing cover so it matches the phosphate headbolts.

 

Got a few coats of matching engine paint on yesterday, and just got my second coat of body filler on earlier this morning. It’s been a lot of back and forth with the welding/brazing. While adding some braze material to inside surface where I did the rust repair the lead?/solder partially melted that was used to seal the clean out ring to the pan. D’oh! Had to add a bunch more solder to correct.

 

Hello, Ziggy,​

Great project you started and good realisation followed!
Enormous dedication and persistence you show us, with great imagination. Keep going and keep informing us.
I will never have such a project, not even in my dreams, so I will follow your adventure with great interest and joy!
Let 2020 year be better than in 2021!

Regards, Zoran​

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. It is really appreciated. I can’t explain why I feel like this, but I only know that at least for the moment, I’m really inspired and motivated to keep plugging away at this beast of a project.

I think finally the oil pan is done. There are just a couple areas I want to touch up. (Not good enough! Lol!)





With parts still on their way for the distributor, carburetor, and fuel pump, I need to figure out what is next. I know, but I need to focus. Been looking for a vintage tachometer, and really haven’t seen anything I liked. There is slso the issue that there really isn’t an option fior a mechanical drive on my flathead unless you can track down one of rare drive units that mounted to the crank. I was also looking at modern vintage looking tachs, but those prices are crazy - like US$300 plus!

 

More fiddling led to more more issues, and I now may have a few hairline cracks as the paint was very soft in a few areas. I’m guessing some of the brake cleaner I use may have seeped under the paint while cleaning the inside. Hopefully, this is not the case. If so, I think I’ll just use a bit of JB Weld on the inside. Will fill it with some water to see if it leaks.
Have ordered parts to build the exhaust. Still wondering how I can fabricate 4 exhaust headers per cyl bank when the flathead only has 3 exh ports. I cannot leave it at 3 headers as everyone will think it is a V6. Splitting the center port will likely kill the very unique sound of the flathead which also is not an option for me. Might “split” the center port with a one-two splitter piece, but then intenally plug one of the openings but still run the header flex pipe to my 4” collector. Seems like the way to go.

 

More fiddley work. Added a modded oil drain washer to end of spark plug tube to mimic OEM look on other tube. Not sure if it was meant to be like this or part fell out. Either way cannot have sharp edge rubbing on wires.


Dipstick and tube foolery...the tube was pretty mangled with damage caused by grips of some sort.




Ordered starter switch and ballast resistor last night as welll as these stickers. Haha!




For the oil filter cannister housing.

 

Petro Scekhter used this pinup decal on his beautiful 3D rendering. Would like to do the same, but I’m sure there would plenty of “sexist” pushback. Oh well, too bad. Lol!


I’m considering this one as well. Lol!

 

Finished up the spark plug lead tubes as well as the dipstick and dipstick tube. Decided to go black for the dipstick and tube to have a bit of constrast.


Also working on the clutch inspection cover. This is the original which is pretty banged up and rusty, but I’m trying to salvage it. I’m sure I purchased another, but can’t find it and my hog’s head trans adapter. D’oh!

 

Ordered the 1.75” splitter/Y-pipe. Coming from UK of all places! Tough to find a splitter with all three tubes same size.


Working on flange. Same issues. Most flanges are cut for 1.625” tube which is not common. I’ve already gone witb 1.75” size stuff. Flanges from Speedway look like Chinese garbage which I’m trying to avoid.

This seller says he cut 1.75” primaries. Will wait and see...

 

Hamb vendor Hells Gate might do 1.75 for you, https://www.hellsgatehotrods.com/shop/ford-flathead-221-239-exhaust-flange/ ive bought flanges from them before and have been happy with them, and his flathead flanges look a little cooler than the other plain ones

 

Thanks. I’ve seen their stuff and agree much nicer looking. I’ll check with them tomorrow.