Hey guys we’re do you recommend buying satin paint from. I’m wanting to paint my 56 Chevy truck with a dark charcoal gray. Thank you
Buying paint in Ca would be a bit like the old Prohibition days where to get the good stuff you have to go behind the counter or out in the back room? I painted my coupe with single stage acrylic then finished it off with acrylic clear with 50% flattener. Had to strain the clear before spraying to get all the little white bits out but it turned out OK. We can't get Hot Rod Flatz here so that was my solution. Can you get it in Ca?
Yea Hot rod flatz is here in California so I can get that. That’s actually what I was looking at it. But wasn’t sure if it’s good stuff
Seriously? You guys need to wake up about all this flat/satin paint. When you can go into a new car dealer and buy an factory fresh computer car already done like that, you know anything remotely cool about that paint is long gone. But if that's what you want, I would just get regular paint with flattener in it. Flatten to your desired level of satin-ness.
I like the look of it. I’m not doing it for the cool factor lol. My 7 year old son likes it also and that’s why I’m going with it. Unfortunately California sucks. So my options are limited. I got a quote today just for a gallon of the new car satin paint and it was $650 just for paint nothing else. Hot Rod Flatz is $150. And I know you get what you pay for. But just trying to figure out what’s good out there and what’s not
I could care less how you want your ride to look. That being said, I like flat and semi gloss. It’s harder to spray and imperfections cannot be removed. Areas you touch like your arm hanging out the door can change gloss. It harder to spray (for me anyway) because it’s easier to streak. The last all over flat black car a friend of mine did he used two painters. This allowed them to push the wet edge all the way to the end. Meaning no streaks in the large panels. Single stage flat is the worse for this. Paint prep has to be flawless because ya can’t fix it unless ya reshoot the part. Repairing boo boos later is different. We are instructed on factory flat painted panels to base and clear the part, then set up the blend and re-clear the replaced part and blend area. Meaning, let’s say you repair a door, refinish and clear the door, then set up the blend on the fender and qtr and clear all 3 panels. It’s a lot more work. It’s almost like repairing a pearl or true candy color. Another possible solution is painting normal, then sand with 3000-5000 grit papers. No buffing. Maybe just a spray detailer. I have did this with small parts but not an entire car. An automotive paint store is going to hit a guy off the street with a big price. Look up Southern Polyurethane products. The TCP you mentioned is a good source. Plus all the big name paint companies have lower priced products. The high dollar stuff is for matching factory colors on new cars. The cheaper stuff is great for all overs.
My body work isn’t going to be great at all so that’s why I don’t want to spend the extra money on gloss. Gloss isn’t an option lol. I’ve been looking at the hot rod Flatz because it’s basically a all in one and has the sheen already figured out (so they say) just want something easy and hopefully it turns out good. I’m not painting it but my hopes are low. But I just want to get it back and drive it
I've shot hotrod flatz with good results. Both the single stage and clear. Just watch your overlap and make sure to walk the entire truck, don't panel shoot it. It's a good habit to get into anyways. Good luck.
Give TCP global a call, theyll add flattener to any of their restoration line colors, or sell you flattener. I bought some flattened urethane single stage recently to do an interior. Whatever you use, batch mix all your paint into one container and blend. Its not an easier paint job. Read up on fogging the last coat, like guys used to do with single stage metallics. Itll help prevent tiger stripe. If it all goes to shit, even it out with a white scotchbrite (1200-1500 grit equivalent)
BESA Urki-Nato Satin A2212 Gray Urethane Industrial Paint, frame and suspension done in satin black. Not as restricted as auto paint. Looked exactly the way I wanted. Would I do it again in Satin, NO, would have been easier to look after in shiney.
I painted one of my junkers with that chalkboard paint about ten years ago.....lol, the grandkids loved it.
I have tinted urethane primer- satin finish and can be repaired- if you go that route- thin it out more than recommended it will lay down better and be easier to spray
Painted 'temporarily' in 2011 with Hot Rod Flatz. Holds up rather well...and I even drive it a bunch year round!
A bright glossy color is the best for bad body work. Like a white or yellow. A flat dark color will show bad body work.
When we did satin, we did the same body work under satin that we did for gloss. They still reflect light. The final prep for a metallic is even more important because metallic particles reflect light different. They will reflect light differently in scratches and pinholes and clear coat magnifies this. If ya like satin, and you said it’s a driver, go with it. But never expect a paint to hide much.
I appreciate the help. I was talking to the guy that going to paint it and he said if we do a BC/CC it’s going to need a lot more bodywork. I’m fine with the satin, I like the way it has that little sheen to it. Not quite flat and not quite shiny. My son loves it too lol, which makes it better. I just want it to look good. I’m just going to cruise this truck and hang out at the local get together on Thursdays. Not winning any trophy’s in shows or anything
I like shiny paint myself, since it's old school. But I helped build this '35 Plymouth coupe for a neighbor and he had it painted with Flatz paint. I wasn't keen on the idea, but after I saw it painted I like it better than the typical satin paint colors.
Even satinish white can show bad bodywork in the right/wrong light. My truck was bad when I bought it, so I took to cleaning up the paint, looked OK dull, so I left it, and then one day the light struck it and oh my was it bad looking!
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-surf-transportation.326942/page-7#post-12590299 Hey J, We saw this cool looking GMC Suburban wagon in a parking lot during a late afternoon. The paint was one of the best that we had seen in a while. It was not shiny black, but a nice satin finish. This was prior to those factory satin paint jobs that were called “frozen.” It did not look like someone painted it with a spray can of black primer flat paint and then gave it a buff job. Since it says Hobie on the side, you might want to give the local shop or the corporate headquarters a phone call and ask if the owner works there. That would give you direct access without anyone putting in their .02 cents worth of suppositions. Jnaki My wife is a stickler for detailing and paint. She normally does not like primer painted cars of any kind. But, after seeing some factory “frozen” paint jobs and now this GMC Suburban, her next car may be a Satin Paint Job from the factory. The frozen dark colors don’t show as much dust as shiny black or other dark colors.
There are some ‘low luster’ colors on new rides. There are some good looking grey and tan colors on some jeep and Toyota products.
How is that satin black paint from John Deere? My brother is a manager at a local store and I can get that pretty cheap
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