Hot Rods Schematics

Let see some of those wiring schematic that you drew up when you wired the car

 

And added to, HAHAHAHAHAHA. Looks like a road map of CT!

 

Don't need a schematic. Just keep a good inventory in your head as to what you have done and label the ends of the wire as you go. Those wiring schematics just drive you batty trying to follow the lines.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I bought a kit from Centech, but I did lay it out before install.

john

 

American Autowire has schematic for each section of car for their Highway 22 product. Print them out. Get to work.

See the bottom of this page
https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/highway-22-plus-universal-wiring-system

 

Vandenplas, whats that funny squiggly deal on the lft bottom corner? lol

 

When I rewired my '50 the wiring diagram was mostly in my head, it's still in there somewhere, I hope. Full disclosure, I did draw up some individual diagrams for circuits that were more complex than what someone else may have designed. I used relays to reduce the load thru my ignition switch and made my interior lights (of all things) more complex than they needed to be. So there is some help for the lucky person who gets this car after I die.

 

Search for Rebel Harness here, I recall a year or so back that the vendor put or linked the diagrams in a thread.

Anyone else recall that?

 

Here ya go, might help?

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rebel-wire-harness-diagrams-and-wiring-info.1120201/

 

This is my go-to wiring schematic! Headlamps, ignition systems, dome lamps, it works for everything!

 

Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here's one,
Trying to help a fellow HAMBer 12000 miles away
wiring a 58 Chevy Truck with a 283 engine swap


This one is how we wire a race car using a Ford Starter Relay and a low amp switch as a Battery Isolator/Disconnect

 

Here is one I done though I have altered it since. The numbers next to the wiring refer to the colour coding and wire size. Think if you break each section of wiring down such engine, lights etc it makes it easier to follow

 

Bought another 29 Tudor last year about this time. While everyone was hiding from the "bat bugs" in March and April I was going over my new car. One of the improvements I made was switching to 12 volts and adding circuit protection.
I rooted around in my jun..., uh, inventory until I found a suitable box to hold the fuse panel and make my terminations. Turns out it was the original on/off switch from my dad's Powermatic table saw that he bought new in 1970. Has sort of an art deco look to the cover. I filled the screw holes and the hole for the toggle and hinged the lid.


Figured I'd better make a map of what I was doing to fold up and store inside the box. That may save me a lot of hunting around with a flashlight for the problem while parked along side the road some dark and rainy night, haha.


I used a relay to heat up most of the panel so the ignition switch would turn off everything but the lights and I wouldn't need big amperage right up against my gas tank.

Flasher and relay are in the cover. Apparently I didn't take a picture with all the wires installed, but here's one that shows most of them. Those are self resetting breakers.

 

If you are going to do your own wiring then this is worth a read.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-101.843579/

 

Wiring diagram ?? You don't need a wiring diagram, I wired my avatar in the mid 90's with a roll of black wire, simple car just ignition system, starting circuit and lights. Sold the car in the late 90's and sure somebody out there has cussed me ! I used a modern wiring kit on my V8 A and much easier with the color coded wiring.
and you can't beat the price if you want to color code the circuits.

 

Never drew up a diagram to wire a car yet. And in recent years it's been even less likely since I've switched to buying universal wiring kits that come with a diagram, and most of the circuitry pre wired to just require termination at the ends.
Back when the kits were $500-$800 I started out with a 8-12 ckt. fuse block, and simply wired everything to that. I sure don't miss using such a base level kit that took me 3 days to wire. With the newer universal kits I can wrap a car up in one day.

 

I didn’t need the diagram to wire it. I drew it so that when I need to troubleshoot it some day, I don’t have to start from “how the f— was this supposed to work?”



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here is one of dozens. 700R4 shift control.

https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/The-700R4-Chapter-2/i-pmqMg59/A

 

'drew this one in CAD
with the help of the HAMB
when rewiring a friend's car.
'tried to make it look "old timey"

 

simple lighting system. Power comes from fuse panel, and have since added a relay...

 

My 1943 2N tractor with 8BA flathead. It does have a more modern 2-speed fan.

 

wow, you win!

 

Could explain to me why you have “ switched” and “ non switched” voltage going to your light switch? Thanks.










Bones

 

Here is a pic of me working on the MG’s Lucas wiring.

 

Headlights require Ignition on,
Parklight/Taillight circuit can be left on with the car locked.

There are 2 separate power feeds in the switch
Sometimes the interior Dome light is also powered from the Parklight/Taillight feed [with a dimmer]

 

Maybe for the interior lights (aka dome light). The "P" terminal on the light switch is not connected in this diagram. Been a while since I worked on older American stuff (mostly Bluebird school buses and IH light trucks).

EDIT: I like Mimiam's answer.

 

Thanks!
I like the fact that somebody can read wiring schematics enough to question this.