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home made tools and equipment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.

  1. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,216

    ekimneirbo

    Ever get tired of running to the home supply store to try to get a brass fitting that will connect things only to find they don't have anything like you need or if they do, its way over priced? I have gotten to the point where If I need something, I go on line and order it..........in quanity. That fitting that costs $8-$20 at the home supply store is often available on line with free shipping. I'll spend $20, but I get 5 or 10 of them. I throw them in a drawer and when I need to make two different things fit, I just turn one of them down on my lathe. Usually its a threaded diameter that could also be spun in a drill press and smoothed down with a file. Then I do the normal cleaning with my wire brush wheel and put some flux on it and solder it like any other pipe. I find that with a little creativity I can make virtually anything fit anything by rifling through the extra fitting drawer.

    Nuther Fitting.JPG
    Building Wire.JPG
     
  2. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,216

    ekimneirbo

    Here is my set up for breathing air. I used several homebrew soldered fittings. While I'm on the subject of solder, here is something to remember. Don't hold your propane torch on the fitting all the time. If you get it too hot you will see a black residue and things turn to crap and don't stick well. Play the torch around the fitting and touch the solder against it ocassionally. When the solder begins to melt and flow, play the flame around just enough to keep it hot.....don't just hold it steady or continuously on the parts. If you need to suck the solder down into a joint, point the heat at the lower end of the joint and the solder will flow toward the heat. If you know that a particular fitting is going to be hard to reach or move the torch around to suck the solder in........then put the two fittings together and solder them. Then reheat and take them apart. Then when you install them where you need them, they will have solder in/on them and as they slip together (with heat), they will seal good.

    Back to the breathing air for the paint booth. The pictures will show two different things. To avoid confusion, I will explain. First I have an alcove on the front of my paint booth. On one side is the main air compressor and its tank. Air is compressed by the pump but then flows through a pipe (NOT into the tank). This pipe crosses above the overhead door and goes to a "radiator" made from copper pipe to allow heat to be removed. There is a cheap box fan in place that can blow air over the tubes. The air travels down to a secondary 80 gallon tank where hopefully moisture will condense and settle to the bottom. Air then goes out the top of the tank and returns through another pipe to the 80 gallon tank of the main compressor. You won't see the main compressor in these pictures. I just want you to know that none of this has anything to do with the breathing air.........except that the secondary tank just happens to be a convenient place to mount the pump for the breathing air.
    Big Picture 1.JPG
    As you can see, the breathing air pump simply resides on top of the secondary tank. Most of its componets are to the left of the tank. The pipe coming out of the breathing air pump goes back and connects to the bottom of the A/C condenser via a double compression fitting. Air flows thru the condenser and out through another double compression fitting.
    Condenser bottom.JPG
    As the now cool air exits the condenser, it goes thru the pipe to a low pressure regulator, and on through a plastic filter housing. Pressure is going to be between 5 and 10 psi as needed. Then it is routed through the wall where there is a quick disconnect.
    Pressure Gage.JPG
    Inside connector 1.JPG
    If you notice, the hose has a push in type fitting and then I used one of those squeeze type crimp clamps. I hate using those screw type hose clamps so I used these. Probably not needed at all given the low pressure. I went to Parker and was told they could not put a proper fitting on the hose because of liability concerns even though it is a low pressure setup. Said they couldn't do it because it wasn't a Parker hose. Last time I ever go to Parker and I already have a bunch of expensive Parker push in hoses. Probably spent $1,000 there over the years. No more, just find stuff on line now.
    Anyway, why did I go to all this trouble? When I ran the pump, the air exiting the pump was very hot, and I was concerned that the heat would induce fumes from the rubber hose and I would ultimately inhale them. By using metal lines and adding a condenser, the air comes out cool......then it goes throug a filter before entering the rubber hose. That way any rust that occurs in the system or pump also gets removed. Others may not wish to go to this much effort, but at least they may get some ideas that help them get fresh air for their lungs........... And you get to see all my redneck fittings I cobbled up!:p
     
  3. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Looks like you thought this through very well. Well presented too. Thanks for sharing.
     
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  4. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Here’s a two-fer. When rebuilding a Blackhawk jack they use a special nut on the hydraulic cylinder. Pipe wrenches will work if you don’t mind tearing up the cylinder nut a little & wrestling to clamp it in place yada yada, yada, some guys put pins or bolts in the grooves and wrench on those - same problem you gotta hold it (the assembly as you try to loosen the nut). I just said F-it and made a tool I could use with an impact wrench - no fuss no muss. If I were to make another one I’d weld an old socket on it instead of the nut. Also if you look at the last pic you will also see what I use for a rubber pad on the jack. About the perfect thickness I think and most importantly FREE
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 1, 2020
  5. Well done. Thanks for sharing.
     
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  6. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Probably a lot of you are space challenged like me so here’s some ways I’ve Doubled Down to try and conserve floor space. AKA some more Two-fers:
    First is my pedestal fan - it’s dual purpose in that it supports the fan obviously but also supports LONG material when using the Cold Saw or Bandsaw. Notice the spacer - the two saws have different height tables so you can pop the spacer out when using the lower height Bandsaw
    BA2D98B6-F508-4035-BCA6-767339A72489.jpeg Then there’s my MIG/Plasma cart- not enough room for two carts - easy peazy. 57AC945E-49EF-4396-99A9-04E9BF85612D.jpeg

    Speaking of my Cold Saw there’s a handy feature in it for a stop to make multiple parts the same length. Well in my small space that rod sticks out and is a PITA so I decided a removable rod would be the best of both worlds and it gave me a use for those POS air couplers. (But admittedly I’ll probably put some good ones on there just for ease of use:
    379B1FFC-E8C0-4B5C-9B62-8D1055FE630C.jpeg 7CAAACB6-ED6D-473D-895C-649294E064FD.jpeg F4614052-97ED-44D4-8EEB-F8A376709089.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2020
  7. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Ever find yourself working late some night and EVERY freakin' Sharpie marker you have has suddenly dried out??? Is that only happening to just me??? If you're affected too... grab some cheap thinner fill the sharpie cap about 1/3 or so full and let it sit inverted for 10 or 15 minutes (time may change more/less depending on how dried it is but I've never needed more than that). Anyways dab off the excess and mark away!
     
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  8. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,276

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    Revived a number of markers with ethanol. Check what solvents were used in it from factory, use the same or something close to that.
     
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  9. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,440

    Boneyard51
    Member

    You guys can find your sharpies? Wow!








    Bones
     
  10. studebakerjoe
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 1,136

    studebakerjoe
    Member

  11.  
  12. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    ONLY the dried out ones!
     
  13. bkap
    Joined: Dec 2, 2007
    Posts: 119

    bkap
    Member

    So, what solvent do Sharpies use? I've used paint thinner and acetone with some success.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
     
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  14. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I often work in other peoples shops. I take my tools with me. So not everybody uses the same airline fittings. So I have many different male ends attached to my female ends. Just plug in the adapter and I`m ready to go to work. I even used one today.
     
  15. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,440

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Oh! There it is..... oh wait.... I found two! Lol








    Bones
     
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  16. studebakerjoe
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 1,136

    studebakerjoe
    Member

    I think we've all done that.
     
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  17. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,442

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

     
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  18. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I always found my Sharpie a Dully :(
     
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  19. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,276

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    I don't have any of that brand, so I can't check. Should be printed on the pen or packaging.
     
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  20. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    I keep my Sharpies in an old coffee mug on the back of my work bench stored point down. Buy the bulk pack and when they won't mark I just toss them in the trash and grab another.
     
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  21. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,625

    atch
    Member

    On the topic of Sharpies; the black ones are indispensable but the silver ones come in very handy also.

    I keep both at the drill press, workbench, cut-off saw, welding table, etc.
     
  22. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I've used WD40 to reactivity my Sharpies. I think it's a sharp tip!
     
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  23. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    8F93C19E-6D9C-4044-A75A-5960BA17E61F.jpeg Shop press modification. My press did NOT come with a (easy) way to raise or lower the platen (or whatever it’s called). I found this boat winch laying around which amazingly bolted up to existing holes and then added some pulleys to the top. Works a heluvalot EASIER than doing it by hand!! Ideally a self locking gearbox would be better and IF I find one for free I might change it, but until then this works perfectly - just don't let go of the handle! :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2020
  24. Needed to make a seal for the cowl flap on the 27 - it's no longer for fuel and is now a vent using a Citroen 2CV vent flap mechanism. Decided use some 3mm ID silicone vacuum hose, slit along the centre line and pressed over the return to make a seal. Made a little tool to do that using scrap hardwood and a Stanley knife blade. Cuts quick and dead straight plus less likely to cut yourself. Works with almost any size hose you might want to split IMG_20201103_150630077.jpeg IMG_20201103_150642015.jpeg

    Sent from my moto g(8) power using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    Nice one, BlackJack, that's a great idea.
     
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  26. I found that the silver markers are also excellent for marking TDC and the desired advance marks on the damper and/or on the timing cover. It makes timing the engine a breeze.
    I also use them to mark parts I have removed and am either storing them, or won't be reinstalling them right away. It saves a lot of time.
    Bob
     
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  27. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    A1113417-E117-4891-9C79-C403C95984CD.jpeg A2D99C9A-FB83-4F25-B419-634DF24481CC.jpeg So lately I have been TIG welding my Bandsaw blades which can be a PITA so I made a cheesy but effective fixture which really has proven to be incredibly useful. Nothing more than a copper flat with a shallow step machined across it and a couple tapped holes.
     
  28. nice job.
    maybe add a model T crank strap to hold the handle? Unknown.jpeg
     
  29. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Anytime you find yourself wondering what’s in ANY product- do a SEARCH for the MSDS sheet - those are always online. IIRC Section 3 will have the chemicals listed.
     
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  30. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    18C2F91B-A1A2-4674-B955-AC2BC3A4DDCE.jpeg So building on the “Never enough room” in my garage here’s my current project to organize a little AND reclaim a wee bit of floor space. I built this today LITERALLY for 3 dollars (I bought the 4” PVC at the local ReSale store, but worst case I think a section of that is 10 bucks NEW). So this picture isn’t quite complete yet (the liquid nails is literally drying as I type) eventually I will wrap a couple thin straps around it and bolt it to the cabinet it is against. I previously just threw scraps into the buckets but this not only takes up LESS floor space but I can organize a little too. I have several nooks and crannies that I can slide more of these into.
     

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