Several years ago, I used a product Hedman called "weld rings" or "spring rings" to fab the headers for my Willys. These things were (I think) stainless, they had a "springy" aspect to them that when compressed, they would fit INSIDE the tubing. They had a raised lip that kept the ends of the tubing at a weld perfect separation, (.020?) and a "lip" (maybe a 1/16") that extended into the tube. Well, I'm fabbing another set of headers, my leftovers are used up, and I can't locate them anywhere. I'm afraid Hedman discontinued them........anyone have any they would be willing to sell off, or another source for them other than Hedman? I'm working with 1 7/8" OD tubing. Any help appreciated.
I've never heard of them but have built many a set. I generally buy all my product from S.P.D. Exhaust. I can only say I have never bought a better product as for over all quality. Also they are outstanding to deal with. Google them up and search all through there very extensive sight. They might be listed and I just don't know it.
Weld rings, Chill Rings, pretty much the same thing. Used them a lot on boiler tube welds. The edges of the rings are beveled with the center slightly wider than the ID of the tube. Outside edges are slightly smaller than the tube ID.
They seem to have disappeared from the market. I have taken to using these. https://www.trick-tools.com/Multi_Purpose_with_V_Pads_Small_Adjustable_PG635V_2039
I used to use them too. But have looked for years for a replacement without success. HAMB had a thread as far back as 2006 looking for them: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tube-alignment-rings.144297/ The Imperial Weld Ring Co. would seem like a place to get them, but they don't have standard rings for exhaust sized tubing. They'll make specials, but cost lots more than the Hookers did. If anyone ever comes up with a real source, please post. They are very handy.
I'm with you Mike. I drill stainless hose clamps, to hold the sections together and tack weld at the holes. Also, to prevent weld run through, I have tried Solar Flux, with great results.
Marty what is weld run through? And what does the flux do? I'd either use some of the big clamps as shown above, make some hose clamps like Marty, or have an assistant hold them tight while I tack. No way I'd have the inside of my pipe filled with cludgey rings.
You mix a small amount of the powder with alcohol, into a paste, and smear it inside the weld joints, before welding. It works well, to stop the weld from leaving a rough weld protruding on the inside of the pipe. It's more of a problem with stainless, than mild steel. Purging the pipe with argon, is another way to keep the joints smooth on the inside.
Exactly how I've done it for years and many sets. Yes you can hold a joint together on a bend, look at the front pipe underconstruction. Works very well and keeps the pipe true i.d. full length. Here's all 8 pipes done and not yet welded to the Flanges and ready to get the inside welds cleaned up. That's called Extrude honing. Probably way past anything guys here would have done. Two reasons for it, clean flow and no hot spots. Turbulence inside pipes costs ya Horse Power.
For those unfamiliar with purging a pipe or tube weld joint, you seal off the tubes a little way from the joints with paper, set your gap and I always used a needle like you would use for inflating a basketball or football. Because we were welding long boiler tubes, we used rice paper. It would dissolve when we ran water through the tubes to flush them. Flushing regular paper out of boiler tubes would result in a big soggy mess that may get stuck in the tubes. Put a Tee in your argon supply hose. One hose runs to your tig torch and the other runs to the needle. Stick the needle into the weld gap at the top, wait until the weld joint is flooded with argon and go to work. If you're not sure if the tube is flooded with argon, hold a lit match or lighter directly under the joint. If the flame goes out, you've got argon coming out of the joint and you're good to go