Technical Tips for starting quickly with dried out fuel bowls

Hello I´m new to this Website. Writing from Germany.
I have a 1954 Ford Crestline, V8, 3.9L, Manual Steering. I look for the original power steering (components). I´ve read, that you had this. You still have? If not... could you give me Advice, where I can get it?
Kind Regards, Christoph
- you also can write me an Email ([email protected])

 

My 36 can sit for days or weeks depending on the time of year, I prefer to spin the engine on the starter, it builds oil pressure in a motor thats been sitting. I set the choke, the motor winds over for a few revolutions, fires right up, no lifter noise, instant oil pressure and best of all, no washing the cylinder walls dry with gasoline or ether.

 

It's hard on the starter, especially if the battery is low too. As the voltage drops the current draw increases, and with a weak battery that leads to a lot of heat generation in the starter. Good way to wear it out.

 

Been doing it for twenty years on this 327, replaced the starter with a gear drive unit last year. My daughters pickup shuts off and restarts every stoplight.

 

skipped to the last page so maybe someone mentioned it, but please store it empty.

I used them at work and if the fluid level is “just so” or the temperature shifts over night the bottom can some how form a vacuum and dump your fluid all over your bench.

Cleaning up soap isn’t fun I can imagine coming into the garage and finding poured gas would be less fun.

 

I didn’t realize this was a large dilemma...I just changed the fuel pump and filter on the convertible, took about 20 seconds of cranking for it to pump fuel up and start.

Like I said, I’m lazy I guess


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I'll say! I just started my old truck this morning after it sat for several months. The battery was low, but I was able to get maybe half a teaspoon of gasoline dribbled in the carb from an "empty" jerry can.
It started it right up.

 

She need to push the "off" button or drive in tow haul. That's what I do.

 

I'm running an AirTex E8251 inline strictly for priming purposes. It takes about 10 seconds to fill up my AFB after it has been sitting two weeks.

 

Flathead pump with priming lever

 

Seems to me Boneyard51's "crank a second - wait - crank a second - wait" trick makes sense.

Also, some of the homebuilt experimental airplane people use a small Facet cube-shaped electric fuel pump on a bypass line around the normal fuel pump. Run it a few seconds to fill the float bowls before cranking. It would require a check valve in the suction line of the Facet pump and I think some have the valve built in.

Lynn

 

If you're going to complicate things by adding an extra electric fuel pump for priming, why not just use it in place of the mechanical fuel pump. Turn the key on, wait a few seconds, and off you go.

Or if you must have a primer pump, just use a marine fuel line squeeze bulb.
Two or three squeezes and fire it up.

 

Watching the video on the primer pump and my question is how does the fuel get pumped into the carburetor/s if it still need to go through the mechanical pump. Does the electric one just push it through and up to the fuel block/carbs and you don't need to crank continuously to get the fuel up.
I have 3 X Rochester 2G's but normally just run on centre carb with progressive linkage.

 

Yes, the electric pump just pushes fuel right through the mechanical pump. It just needs a very small bit of pressure to lift the check valves off their seats in the mechanical pump.

 

Try the vent tube or carefully down the throat .Do not squirt down the throat while cranking ,1 backfire and you have a bomb between your fingers . I know “ I done it for years with no problem”, just remember who you hurt the most is your family not you . Use caution anytime you play with flammable liquids of any flavor .

 

Hey so I tried your Dad's trick this morning and it worked! My Strombergs had been sitting for a week. The acid test will be my Q-jet, that thing is dryer than the Sahara desert after a week.

Thanks Bones!

 

Ad an electric fuel pump with a switch, turn it on and it will fill the carb and It'll start right up no matter how long it sits.

 

They have a rubber seal at the cap. Gas eats the seal and gas runs down your hand when you try to use it.
Could replace with o ring that is fuel resistant.

 

So I found this here in Australia. This should work??
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Universal-12V-Electrical-Fuel-Priming-Pump-HEP-02A-AU-/182066607469

 

I don't mind cranking 'til it lights, by that time it has oil pressure too...

 

I replaced my oil pressure safety switch with this item which when turned on primes for 3 seconds. It can be made to
prime additional times just by turning the ignition off and on again. It operates off the tach so when the engine in not
running the electric pump does not run. And no more cranking forever to start the engine.
https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html

 

Pros and Cons of using Carb Cleaner instead of Starting Fluid sprayed into the carb?????

 

How about starting fluid?

 

I've been running the Aussie version of this (Peel Instruments CP30) for a long time. Good solution if you already have an electric pump.
https://www.peelelectronics.com.au/lpg-automotive-gauges-propane-closed-loop-safety-switch/#SSW

Cheers,
Harv

 

I'm really sorry if you (or anyone else) got that impression somehow. Certainly wasn't my intention.

It is important to always replace the air cleaner back on before trying to start the engine, in case of backfire. Good point! I'll try to be more clear in the future.

 

I do it a little different. You don't need much pressure to get the fuel in the carb. I just blow on the gas tank filler neck. It does not take but one blow and hold it for a few seconds. I use this method to start the bigger engines around the house.

 

I did something similar on an old motorhome, but I used a momentary switch. That way I wouldn't accidently leave it on and run down the battery.

 

Just fired up the Q-jet, last driven on the 9th. Started on the third short burst! I'm a believer!

Hmm, interesting. I'll have the wife give it a try.

 

That's an old Go-kart trick, called "kissing the tank" on a flat head Briggs.

 

Yeah it is a pain to crank and crank when the old car has sat a while, but I figure that if the bowl is empty the oil is also drained back into the pan. So as I crank the engine I watch the oil gauge or light and that way I have oil pressure before it actually starts. Usually if car has been sitting all winter the oil pressure starts to build just as the gas gets there and it starts to "catch".