Hot Rods Where to get a Lakewood 3-point roll bar??

I would love to pick up one of those vintage style Lakewood 3-point roll bars commonly seen in tri-five Chevys. It basically just has a loop for the driver and goes down on the passenger's side with one bar going back. Im not sure if someone still makes them or what. Anyone know?? Or if someone happens to have an old one kicking around .....
-Thanks, Dean

 

Those things are pretty neat looking and I'd kinda like to have one myself. But when you do see one up close, it is apparent that the main upper body part is universal and you would purchase an installation kit which is about the lower 8 inches or so and is vehicle specific to line the "feet" up with the specific vehicle frame rails. I have a photo somewhere of one assembled outside of a car and I had kicked around the idea of taking a car to a chassis shop with the photo and have a more "permanent" 3-point fabricated.

 

Bump still would like to track one down!
-Dean

 

Old post, but just did one for a customer, All I need are some basic numbers

 

I would like to get one for my 37 Ford Coupe.

 

Bump this old thread.
I have a friend looking for one.
Anyone reproduce this or are we gonna have to start bending.

 

Get the bender out. Fun, easy project.

 

the pic with the roll bar against the plywood is an excellent pic to guess the dimensions
I have a bender that I haven't used yet
hmmmmm

 

Anthony, you're better off. Had one in an F body. it was kinda cheesy. Doubt any track would approve.

 

No track will approve them, as they meet none of the current tech rules. But it's more about a nostalgia look than actually rolling the car today.
I'm going to go back to my old work place and use the Greenlee hydraulic bender to do one for my '39 Chev coupe.

 

Yep. They guy wants one for a 56 Chevy.
The look is what he’s after

 

You have bender and not done yet

 

Yep.
Ain’t that sumthin
Pricing a pre-built cage is usually cheaper than I can buy the tubing.
But, looks like we’re fixing to use it.
Also need a cage for an OT truck

 

If I was closer I'd come and help ya. I kinda want to make one of these myself. Got a 62 Biscayne it would look good in.

 

For me , making them is the easy part, give me the numbers and I can bend one, what kills the deal for me is the shipping amount to get it to you. it can cost upwards to $250-$300 in most cases due to its size. add to that, Im not going to run around for a couple hours trying to find you the best rate and then you cancel the deal because the cost got too high--- Been there-done that

 

It would be more fun making your own. If it is never raced you could use .120 wall from the local supplier to keep the cost down.
I just bought 4 20 foot sticks of 1 3/4 x .120 for 155 bucks. 4 sticks should give you some learning.

 

We have 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 dies.
And it’s for looks and not for rules specs.
We also have a super fancy conduit bender
Guy bends 1/8 with it

 

I thought they were made from 2" od 1/8th wall tubing? Use 1-3/4 black iron pipe, cheap, cheaper at the scrap yard, if its just for looks..

 

Current rules call's for 1 3/4 tubing outside diameter for a roll bar, you can go to 1 5/8 with a cage.

 

Then 1-1/2 black pipe,. I had to go out and measure my car, brain fart!

 

Pretend or not If I was taking the time to build it I'd build it right with the correct material.

Back about 30 years ago a friend asked if I would help her son put a roll bar in his little 4x4 pickup. I said yes but only if he put a real roll bar in it from the 4x4 shop rather than the muffler molly chrome one he was looking at. He got the good one, and we spent Most of a Saturday in the school shop putting it in. I cut his bed liner so it would bolt up right and made backer plates out of flat stock for the back sides. We got it in. hooked the lights up he wanted and off he went. About six weeks later his mom comes in the break room at work an says that I had saved here son's life. He had rolled the truck a night or so before and the State patrol said what saved him was that roll bar and how it was mounted. That is just a lesson in do it right if you are going to do it and don't cut corners.

 

Absolutely. It may not meet any rule book specs but we will use the correct tubing.

 

use .134 wall tubing as .120 will usually not tech after bending mill run specs are sometimes below spec even before bending .117 or .116 for what is called .120 wall

 

we can bend 2 as easy as bending one
but there is the geography problem

 

Build dragsters for a living and getting the SFI certed is a constant around here. A chassis inspector NEVER sonics the bend because thinning is a given at that point. What the inspector is checking for is that the correct dia and thickness was used in construction according to the SFI spec manual. But you are correct that the ASTM specs have been changed as to how thin the wall can be and still be called .120, I have measured tubing as thin as .114 out of the .120 rack, and for that if mild steel is to be used then the upsize to .134 wall is required. but the main problem is local availability of .134

 

A pre bent cage is cheaper, but then you toss in shipping, and watch the price go nuts! I can go to the local steel yard and buy the tubing, and it's cheaper than pre bent plus shipping.

 

thats nice
measurements would help several here

 

this sounds like a nice math lesson for students