Looks like it's time to clean the contacts and flip the washer on my SBC. Wouldn't be so bad except for getting by the headers. Stock old school starter. Have there been advances in starter solenoid tech or same old way? How do you do a remote solenoid on a Chevy? Is that a good thing?
I run my solenoids in the trunk on the 34 and my 442 as both have batteries mounted in the rear as well. Both have gear reduction starters with solenoids on them. I jump the S terminal to the Batt lug on the starter and run the solenoid wire (usually a #1 or #2 depending on the run length) from the trunk to the Batt lug on the starter. When the solenoid lights the wire, the starter engages.
Is it having a problem? If so, what are the symptoms? I haven't had to screw with the solenoid for a long long time on any of mine. But I did have one that needed a relay to power the purple (S) wire, because the voltage drop in the start circuit was too much to make the solenoid fire some times. I just used a little Bosch relay, to give the purple wire a boost. No problem after that.
If you are having to replace the solenoid plate often , you have a voltage problem. Low voltage is extremely hard on relays. But answer a previous question, yes you will still need to energize the solenoid to engage the starter drive, but you will move the relay up to the fender, like a Ford. Chevy starters, have the solenoid and relay made together. Ford puts the relay on the fender to keep it cool and has the solenoid on the starter. Bones
So what pushes the drive out? I’m not seeing this clearly. If you take the solenoid off the starter...if you leave it on it’s still subject to heat soak
You run a big wire from the Ford relay to the starter post. Then run a small wire from there to the exciter post on the solenoid. Bypassing the Chevy relay. Then run your wire from your starter button to the S terminal on the Ford relay. Bones
I’m going to bench test this. Get my head around it Although I’ve taken to changing out with the mini starters the last several years, just easier to install as you get older
Ford didn't start using a starter-mounted solenoid until what, late 70s or 80s? When the permanent magnet versions came in... They used the Bendix drive until the early '60s then switched to the 'field pole' design. This operated by having a iron core partially inserted between the field coils. The current inrush would pull the core down engaging the starter gear and the load would keep it there. Once the motor started, the load dropped, current went down, and the core popped up disengaging the drive.
Click. Click. Click....Vroom. Been getting progressively worse. When it does spin, it spins with gusto, no problem with battery. Not a recurring problem with this vehicle. Just have had to do them in the past, seen the burnt contacts and washers. Thought maybe I'd make improvements to avoid dealing with this pesky R&R for a long time. I did try a jumper wire from bat to S terminal, same issue.
This discussion has always intriguer me ,if the reason for the starter not actuating is a heat" stuck" solenoid plunger , how does throwing more juice at it make it ( the plunger) move ? Like blow-by says hot wire didn't help ....
If the starter clicks and doesn't try to turn, then I think you have diagnosed it correctly. If there's nothing from the starter, then it could be the voltage drop that I discussed fixing with a relay. Might see if you can find an NOS solenoid...???
That’s funny, every Chevy starter I’ve ever seen needs the solenoid to engage the gear. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So I pulled the starter apart. Cleaned the solenoid contacts. Now I see the rear bushing is shot, .040" of slop. Odd size, 5/8x9/16, hardware store doesn't have it. Wonder if I should bother, new starters aren't too expensive and I hate to throw away something I can repair.
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