Just picked up a 64 galaxie convertible, The selling family said after dad passed away it has not been started in 17 years, So im just trying to not make any mistakes on getting ready to start it, What I have done so far... I pulled the plugs sprayed some fogging oil been sitting 2 days, Had the 4 barrel rebuilt by experienced person , Ordered a new gas tank and sending unit should be here end of this week, Going to pickup a new fuel pump and filter & rubber hoses, plugs,points,wires, ADVICE NEEDED on turning it over by hand? What to look for and what not to do? Thanks
Turn by hand should be fine but dropping the sump and clean it out first would be good ( if it can be dropped) if not oil change. Just done this with a dodge 318, bit of fiddling on it and it fired first spin. Ran it on two stroke to lubricate the upper parts a bit more than straight petrol would after sitting forever.
We used to fill the cylinders with ATF, let it sit a day or two and rotate it by hand . Then spin it over with the plugs out to pump the rest of the oil out of the cylinders . The advice to pull the pan is good ! Fords used an umbrella style rubber valve stem seal and they would become hard, break up and ( the screen on the oil pick up had a by-pass hole in the center ) a piece would end up in the oil pump and lock it up and that in turn would shear the shaft that runs the distributor. We would take the screen out of the pick up and put a bolt washers and a nut to close the hole re-assemble and good to go. If you did not close the hole it would happen again as soon as another piece washed down to the pan. This was a common failure decades ago.
If it turns.....start it up! Might need to file the points to get spark. Did I tell you about the 28 Chevy I started up after it had been sitting in the desert for 50 years?
Sitting inside or outside? Makes a big difference with moisture buildup in the engine. If the engine turns I would at least pull the distributor and prime the engine from the oil pump or at the very least pull the spark plugs and then spin the engine with the starter to build oil pressure.
Only thing I have is to make sure you clean the line from the tank to the carb as well. Who knows what kind of crud is sitting in there after 17 years and you don't want it pumped into that rebuilt carb.
I recently started a big block dodge that sat for at least 30 years, I put a battery in it cleaned up the points and started it, I checked the oil first...it runs like a top, changed oil after it was running, I’ve put many thousands of miles on it this summer. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
In addition to some of the things others suggested, I would pull the valve covers, and the rocker shafts. Free up any stuck valves, and any rockers stuck on the rocker shaft. A little more work, but worth it- bring each piston to TDC, and using an on the engine valve spring compressor, replace the umbrella seals. If they haven't broken yet, they will. Go slowly when turning over by hand (with the plugs out), and stop if you get hard resistance, as it will probably be piston rings hitting rust in a cylinder.
Thanks, Im gonna let that fogging oil sit in there a few more days. It was in the garage and then they removed it for a garage sale and never moved it back inside I was told. Im assuming all 17 years outside
Good advice so far. I would keep plugs removed and try rotating engine by hand. If the front balancer bolt is not working, stop before you overtighten, break or strip the bolt. then go underneath and use a screwdriver or flywheel tool to get it broke loose. Once loose and more than 2 full revolutions, the starter can be used to run it around a bit to circulate the new oil. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I remember them having a nylon coated timing gear. Which after years, the teeth would break off and end up in the pan. Then it would jump time due to the slack in the timing chain. You may want to investigate that before you put many miles on it.
had the EXACT same thing happen to me. ruined a good 390. check for stuck valves before you bend a pushrod or break a lifter.
Tried turning it by hand after 2 days of letting it sit with fogging oil, Dam thing is still tight. I stopped and sprayed more into the cylinders now wait a few more days,
Tried or did turn it by hand? If this engine is stuck tight and it's not the starter bendix, pull it out. Put it on a stand and go through it.
Good advice. The FE engines were bad about sticking valves if they set a while. He is correct, the valve guide seals will be hard as a rock if they aren't already broken in pieces.
You might want to pull the distributor out and insert a shaft on a drill to the oil pump to get oil through out they system. That might help loosen it up.
Go under and try to turn using the flywheel/flexplate teeth. You have a lot better leverage and control using those. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Ok will try from flywheel on monday, Its on my trailer so I got plenty of room to get under. Will also try the removing distributer and getting to oil pump.
I may be wrong, but I don't think fogging oil is your best choice. I think fogging oil is designed to "cling" to exposed surfaces, to protect them during storage. You need an oil that will "creep" into the problem areas. Something thin like ATF, as mentioned above, or Marvel Mystery Oil. If it was me, I would give it a few days with Kroil-brand penetrating oil, followed by a few days with MMO.
I had a 460 at one time that came to me full of water.... I blew the water out the spark plug holes with a long nosed blowgun (1/4 in. tube) .... Poured about a cup of straight diesel in each cyl... No fancy oils... let it set about 2 or 3 weeks and was able to turn the crank with a long ratchet.... LynnW
after that wait, I'd drain all coolant and what's left pour in white vinegar. I'd block of heater, at a minimum pull the oil plug, pour a 1/2 gallon of diesel in it, shake the heck out of the front of the car and get it sloshing around, keep doing it and taking a break and soon you'll have arms like a muscle man...okay, after a day or two of this, drain the diesel out...is it clean? Well, if not, do it again. When the diesel looks near like it was when it went in, then let it air dry a few , days, put oil in it prime it (can ya with a ford?) and spin it over till OP shows, then install, plugs and see what happens. Once running, let it get some good warm in cycle going. After a few long idling at many different RPMs, then drain the vinegar and watch the red slush come out. Add water, repeat...when water comes out like it did when going in, drain (no leaks yet right, gonna fix those as you see them pop up, I/e h=after leaks are gone, time for hoses/etc., and then fill 50/50 in the radiator. Hey, it's been 17 years sitting, probably a few years before that since taken care of, why rush it...prep the start up w/o much dollars involved, just time.
Not a FE but I recently went through this with a SBF. Pulled the plugs and fogged it a couple times then tried to turn it with a breaker bar. Nothing. Tried backing it off. Unscrewed the bolt. Even tried a length of pipe on the breaker bar. Still nothing. Ended up pulling the engine to have a look. Pulled the pan and didn't see anything. Started loosing the rod caps and it started to turn after the 3rd one. Pulled it off and the crank still had oil on it. Pulled the head and popped that piston out. Inspected the rings and found a carbon build up underneath the 2nd compression ring. Engine has a few miles on but it looks like a good candidate for a rebuild.
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