Its been quite some time since I have posted on here, but since Covid-19, I've been chugging away on a few projects and doing some things. I was gifted a motorcycle, which I traded for the parts needed to get further ahead on my parts collection. I have enough parts now to finally build a speedster out of parts I was given from people throwing them away or selling. I have a Canadian 1916/1917 unused block (never installed in a car), a 1917-1927 front axle, 1917-1925 rear axle, frame section from a 26/27 T, 4 quarter elliptical springs, 17-23 low radiator, a crown vic police partition, and various other parts. My hope is for a single seat speedster/race car, and hopefully I can get the frame/suspension built so that I can build the rest. Here are some of the pics. If anyone wants to give advice on quarter elliptical springs and technical support, or have parts to donate, I'm all for it! Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
here is a shot of one that I think a Hamber built a few years ago. More photos and a couple more speedsters can be found in my album from the 2013 Inland Emperors East-West flathead relibiality run at Vantage https://app.photobucket.com/u/mr48chev/a/28af9e13-d77c-403f-8fdb-d29547610fe9
Thats awesome! Thanks! I wish I could afford OHV or OHC heads for the T, but I'm on a tight budget. It took me 20 years to get the parts, so it might take a few years to get it running. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I here you there, this setup is a few miles from me and way way out of my price range. https://yakima.craigslist.org/pts/d/yakima-rajo-bb-ohv-model-engine/7192559023.html
Great ideas and a nice bunch of parts. I really like these kinds of builds. I know where you are on this but I hope you can get on it. I've been gathering parts for 50 years and have enough for mt '26 Chevy roadster and two speedster types. One Chevy powered and one Essex with parts enough to do all the running gear n a Ford. The problem is that the parts are taking up the work space.
You may also want to look at the "northwest vintage speedster" site for ideas on t speedster types. I do not remember anything on quarter elliptic springs, but I'm going to try something of the sort in the next year or so. Good luck! And Have Fun!
I feel you on that! I just tore apart the crown vic police partition and going to cut 32 inches out of it. I figured I'd retain the tube as bolt on structure and weld the center back together or cut the ballistic sheet off the tube and trim it to work on the frame and bolt it on that way. I have the center section, so it could be used to help clearance the drive shaft. I'm leaning towards tube bolt on as it would help stretch the 2/3 of frame section so there is a bit more room. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh and I forgot to say, this cowl section from a MG midget will be my speedster cowl once narrowed and cleaned up. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was thinking of going with wide 5 wheels since I have a set and speedway actually sells a set of adapters for wide 5 wheels that will work with the wood wheel hubs. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like you have a good collection of parts to start with. I started putting one together a couple or so years back, same idea...use parts that I have collected over the years, parts that were given to me free, the base of the build is a 1916? T touring chassis that my brother gave me and mixed in some freebe model a parts, front and rear axle,. Modified the frame , stepping the rear 9÷" and flipping the front cross member...then I was given a 60's Volvo 1800 ,all rebuilt engine and trans complete on a crate. Then I started thinking of body idea's, was thinking single seater, so I bent up a old model a , Murray, cowl and started mocking things up ..then my health took a turn again, the wrong way, so the car has been left too collect some more "Patina" and during that time my brother gave me the original tub body and a turtle deck so the body idea will probably get changed when or if I ever get back to it... Health is better now, cancer free for over two years now, but after 8 surgery's that have left me with only 40% of one kidney that remains, i am back working on my hot rods but I am focused on getting my 50 Stude Champion Starlight finished up and on the road too enjoy , while I can...then if all is still well...the T and my 50 Chevrolet Bel-Air semi-Kustom come back into play.. Have fun with your build , I will be watching.... My total "cash" invested at the time I stopped work on the T was $30...also if I do get back to work on it I think the idea of a single seater will have to be bumped up towards more of a one and a half seater due to a bit of poundage that has found me. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That looks like a fun build! I am glad to hear your health is improving, and I hope it continues to go up! I will post when there are updates, but it will be a slow progression. I thought a single seat car was the best way to have fun, but also to have a car that was just a bit on the crazy side. I'm going to use the lexan from the partition and an old T windshield frame for my windshield. I hope to be able to recycle as much as I can, hence the use of various parts and pieces. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Was just curious about your wide 5 set up on model t woodspoke wheel hubs? Thats quite a stretch... I see that speedway has wide 5 adapters for going from early ford hubs to wide 5... but not that early. Just curious, never herd of doing that before. If you ever go for a drive and end up in Oregon look me up...I have some model t front and rear axles , couple sets of fenders, that cowl that I formed up , wide 5 wheels , model a springs , 2 or 3 model a rear cross members and..a pair of dodge double dip front axles , a pair of 31 Desoto frame rails and on and on...anyways I could load you up... Have fun. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found sprint cars have been using the 6 on 5 pattern for years, which is the T wood hub pattern. Speedway sells them in their sprint car area. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wide-5-Wheel-Adapter-to-6-Pin-Sprint-Car-Hub-Pattern,29220.html Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Where did you think the "6 on 5" pattern on REAL RACE CARS (Sprints, Midgets, & Champ cars) originated? GEE, Capt. Obvious.....
Ok...I have not been around for years...only 59 ...but I looked at the application chart and I did not see 6 on model t wood wheel 6 pin hub...if it was it would be wide 5 on 6? I thought I would check things out, I didn't have a wide 5 adapter for 6 pin , so I used a adapter for a 6 on 4.50. The 6 being the example for 6 pin.. Things just don't line up..it would have to be wide five on model t wood spoke hub 5.25 6 pin? Gee... I dont know...maybe I'm not old enough.?. Unles ......oh ya...weld them on ? Re drill the adapter? Directly bolt on ..just don't see it. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am aware of 6 lug trailer wheels for most of my 59 years...I also know that chevy car ,pre 49 , pickups also had 6 lug wheels for many years...I have owned probly 100 of them ..plus many more examples... And Im sure that not one of there wheels will bolt on to a model t wood spoke hub Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No reason to get into an argument everyone. Model T wood spoke hubs are 6 on 5 per ford, many early dirt and track racers used wire and disc wheels set up for this pattern which is why wheels are this pattern for dirt cars. Another popular size later on were wide 5 ford, which is why there is an adapter for these hubs for those wheels in the racing section of the site. Many T's also were turned into trailers and so that is why some 6 lug trailer wheels are 6 on 5. So in reality you can use T wood spoke hubs with some trailer and racing wheels. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Is the sprint car 6 pin bolt pattern dementions the same as a 6 lug wheel...theres a difference between 6" on 6"...6" on 5.50"..and wide 5 on 6"....and wide 5 on 6 pin sprint hub? Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sprint car 6 lug patter is the same as model T's, as are some trailer 6 lug patterns. Its because most early sprint cars and other race cars were made from model T's. The wood hubs had a large aftermarket that covered everything from disc wheels to wire wheels. Later sprint cars used the Ford wide 5 pattern which is why some sprint cars today have 6 on 5 wheels and other the wide 5 wheels. Are there other lug options? Yes, but the most common are those two, which is why speedway sells the adapter kit for the 6 on 5 hubs to wide 5 wheels. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What?...not trying to start any arguments..you just made a comment on putting wide 5 wheels on a original model t wood spoke wheel hub...part of this forum is spreading or sharing info...preferably for the purpose of helping some one. I was curious about this, I'm aware of the wide 5 pattern being used in racing also originally on '36 to '39 ford cars. Also I know about the wide 5 adapters. I am also aware of Speedways parts, racing and hot rod, the adapter that you showed a picture of is a wide 5 adapter, be it for hot rod or race, they adapt modern 5 on 5,50 ,5.25 ,5.75 ...to wide 5. Knowing this stuff ...I just couldn't see how this adapter fit a ford model t wood spoke hub , original or race , just was asking how this could be done ...if they have been doing it for years how...you said you were looking into that conversation, then you show a picture of a part that ,as far as I could see by looking and measuring a actual model t hub ,how it would work. But then you brought up ..model t hubs are 6 on 5 per ford.? This hub adapter I have pictured is a 6 on 4.50 What is 6 on 5 per ford mean ? Normally 6 would be the number of wheel studs , on would be the hub/bolt pattern size( 5", 5 1/2", 4 1/2" and others) So what is the 6 on 5 per ford ? The ford model t wood spoke hub is a spindle mount (direct fit ,one nut,) but it does have 6 bolts and a flange with 6 holes that hold the wood spokes to the hub , that has 6 holes in it. So a adapter would be 6 on wide 5.? The wood spoke bolts on the t hub are 5 1/8" c.c . A 6 lug trailer, Chevy or others bolt patterns are 6 on 5 1/2".. So if old hot rodders and sprint racers were bolting 6 lug trailer wheels on there model t hubs ...how did they do that? I do know that there are wide 5 trailer hubs and the wheels are just rims ,hoops or rings that are held to the hubs with cleats and nuts on to the hub studs...semi trucks had a similar set up , the California wheel, ... The wide 5 ford or race wheels have the hole fabricated into the wheel itself that hold it on the hub with nuts. Model t hub ...6 on 5 per ford? Sorry to take up your space and time but I just couldn't under stand or see how or what you say they have been doing for years. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wide-5-Wheel-Adapter-to-6-Pin-Sprint-Car-Hub-Pattern,29220.html It fits the 6 lug t wood hubs. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In many cases, people welded the wheels to T hubs or bought accessory wheels that fit. Its rather simple bud. I think you're over-thinking it. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Moving on...not over thinking anything...Im not building any hubs ...I was just curious on things . What is 6 on 5 per ford.. I have the hub in front of me ..what part of it is the 6 and what part is 5 per ford....thats all.. Good luck on your build ...I would like to see what you come up with. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Finally....some one else ...thanks Pete, I was not aware of that...I will store that info, Im not working on my speedster at the moment. I was just trying to understand some of the things the OP was saying . Some of it just didnt click . Thanks Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The T spindles would need to be turned on a lathe where the outer bearing slips on and the spindle would need shortened also. The rears, you'd have to buy adapters. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The T spindles would need to be turned on a lathe where the outer bearing slips on and the spindle would need shortened also. The rears, you'd have to buy adapters. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app