HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

I'd fit the blower first, you may have to flip it around backwards to clear the back of the case, then dimple the firewall.

 

We don't always see eye to eye but I got to give you credit for execution thus far, you mentioned wasting the last couple of years but all the attention to detail and the obvious amount of time you have spent polishing will pay off big time when everything is bolted back on for the last time.

Did you ever figure out the door & rear side glass garnish moldings? HRP

 

No need to fret Matt the blower housing sets enough forward that the pump would clear without even clocking it as I faked in the previous pic. It is where I have to build up the runners and have the mounting plates that will interfere. In the words of a not so famous MX engine tuner “go ahead run it boy, it’ll be alright”


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

First I will apologize for the long delay in response to your query sir. I have to admit I was rattled by your opening sentence. HRP I have huge respect for you and stumble to recall a single time where I wasn’t giving air high fives for something you posted. I consider you a H.A.M.B. Icon award recipient. After taking sabbatical to mull it over I can only hope you were referencing personal tastes and not moral standards. I confess I have not self edited at ever turn of my short tenure here. I.E. said stupid stuff that may or may not have accurately represented my true self. Yes I don’t care for fendered rods near as much as those shedding the non-necessity, spreading wings, and appearing to fly. They did however suit your pickup perfectly.
I will continue to do my best, strive to sustain from self-righteousory, and consider meeting the hot rod moment at every turn.
In a shorter bout of proselytization... I think I will give the use of 46-48 Tudor moldings a whirl as @Tim guided me to the path of light. They definitely fit the timeline and doctrine. Hubba Hubba has plenty of little 1940s contemporary influences pulled into the scripture, like 40 column shift and steering wheel. Although they clearly look post 32-34 in design I think they still have enough balance of elegance and simplicity to flow with the lack of interior panels and still not break any commandments. I intend to paint them the stainless color I’ve used on the dash and steering wheel center. The cost, look, and era of manufacture are the deciding factors of my persuasion to conviction against the temptations of claiming it in poor taste.

Any troubles navigating this reply and wondering what the hell? I can only say that I am well meaning and spirited orator but a horrid communicator and writer. That and I have no idea what I’m trying to convey only trying.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

She may be no Hell’s Messenger or Jimmy Shine’s level with BG’s Coupe.

But if I leaned the posts back just a touch more it may look as fast.


It may still look a tad lazy?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Your angle looks about the same but your door top is stopping short making the A pillar look fatter which messes with the vibe. I think you’re closer than you think

 

I disagree!
One of the things I like about a good chop is a retention of a shtraight windshield post. Leaned back too far or over chopped leads the windshield to appear bent or rounded off.
Yours looks right on the money, the Elmer coupe good, shines car lacks refinement in my opinion.
I used a six inch rule when I did my shoebox to ensure the window frames were exactly straight!

 

Matt I plan on having the A-pillar at the door jam edge run parallel to the windshield frame. It will be the stock thickness like the lower half. This requires slitting the top half, moving it closer to the door, and filling the missing gap after the cut is made.
Tim I haven’t done anything to the upper door portion except removing enough to rest it in there. It will have the curved corner cut off and moved forward. A piece will need added in on the top. I also have to make some pie cut towards the back on top get the hinges squared up but yet allow the door to fit the angle chop. I suspect the lower front corner I took off to get out of the way for the leaned back pillars will be the hardest part.
I was just saying above though that maybe the A-pillars aren’t leaned back enough. I had it about 1 1/2 degrees more before but settled on here. But now seeing it out of the garage it lost some aggression or “Lakes” believability. To me the angle looks too “right” maybe street rodder or Riddler award soft and safe. I maybe need less refinement kinda like Vern Hammond’s 3w style where you believe guys did it themselves? Although it’s leaned more than huge influencer Brad’s




Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Like I said I think you have it right. Keep the lines straight. It's looks chopped, not like a toy car in a toaster oven on broil.

If you look at the shine car you can see it has two bends on the leading edge of the door gap, and a super shitty job on the inside radius of the window opening.

Both the Elmer coupe and Brads Spiteful special are right. Straight lines and nice radi.

Maybe put some masking tape on it and rattle can it and look again. I think the crooked edges of the door are messing with you.

 

It’s begun


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

...Hotrod...

Credit to All That Inspired this

​

 

My friend had his 17 year old machine the blower plate. We both got a kick out having him working on 46-48 style hot roding of his great grandpas generation when he’s still into BMX and Drift cars.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My statement was merely tongue & cheek as too our difference of opinion on fender's, you are correct in the assumption I was referring to personal taste, In retrospect I should have used a smiley emoji. HRP

 

Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Alright now here me out. This whole sneak some vintage military stuff in the interior without being gaudy takes time to get right. If I was only making a pure Lakes race theme I could just slam clone early wwii colors on the seat and it would appear authentic. But since I’m trying to teeter on show car here and there it takes some bending of the rules.
When I put the header support in the roof way back. I just used some Rustoleum Hunter green I had. I thought this would fly because it’s in the shade if you will. Since I evolved to wanting to paint the inner door and rear regulator panels green along with the body support structure, this started to become a problem, it being in the light and all. This doesn’t go with the exterior paint, the mohair fabric for the rear seat, or the front seats and fabrics I was collecting. It’s alright with the dash/steering wheel hue but kinda meh. I showed a few pages back I found this better color above. I pulled the carpet from the attic to compare. I can’t figure out the lighting for pics but I’m telling ya to the naked eye it looks really close now. The edge piece on the carpet in real life looks identical to the green in the plush. I said before that this new green isn’t military. But I think it will fool the layperson. The Hunter green is far too green like British racing green. The camouflage specimens I gathered up are either too light green, too sand, or too dark green getting towards black. This new green has more blue dark grey in it to me. It passes with the dash/wheel combo a little better to boot. My intentions for the seats is to paint them the more military early olive green, then the latter theater dark green on up to the Korean War, and then cover with the green I like. I will wet sand through to show the other green in high ware areas. Plus scratches and nicks. My goal is to give the impression they where found in surplus and maybe had a repair or update? I don’t know.
So the fabrics I’ve gotten so far posed the same dilemmas. First the wool sleeping bag I wanted to use. I continued to struggle with the texture not looking the Warbird part. Now after starting to staple it on I just couldn’t stand the way it some how looks too pure light green and camel at the same time. The vintage seat base stuff I got recently will be ok for the shallow race base cushions I’m making. In new condition it’s fabric would be to dark green to black. The worn out stuff is pretty bad and has some big stains. One looks like a vermin died there. While ok for the race look it would be in heavy contrast to my new Mohair rear seat fabric and the carpet. I’m confident I can unintentionally dirty up the carpet while assembling the car. While I got it cheap the Mohair retailed for $350 a yard so it still seems expensive to me to go trashing.
I really want to use authentic period parts at every turn. So far that has been easier said then done. So the best I came up with was giving in and ordering some NOS military cotton canvas with the best color that I thought fills the gaps of the different shades employed. I’ll try this stuff over the wool for a tad extra bit of cushion. It should be here in a couple days and we’ll see if the color in the flesh flys. The weight of the material is another concern. I have a couple wwii pup tents in the attic but found them to thin and pliant? I want it to be heavy like the old seat base I bought.
Sorry so long on that but I tend to keep everyone filled in on the most minute details.
I’m super close on a decision for the garnish moldings.
I have a crank blower pulley hub on the way.
My friend and me are in discussions for machining the 4v belt AL pulleys. I don’t know if I’ll even have room for 4 belts. I often forget that my front crossmember is set back. I’ll figure it out even if it requires something drastic with the radiator.
Finally there’s this no quick change issue.
I had intended to get her going and leave the 3.78 ring and pinion in till running the HillClimb. Then getting a 3.54 which aren’t exactly cheap either. I am still worried about the rpms though I could roughly guess. My 27.250” rear tires had me concerned. So some calculations were in order.

3.78:1

60mph = 2,797rpm
100mph = 4,661 • •
120mph = 5,593 • •
128mph = 5,966 • •

3.54:1

60mph = 2,619rpm
100mph = 4,365 • •
120mph = 5,238 • •
128mph = 5,587 • •
135mph = 5,893 • •

3.25:1

60mph = 2,404rpm
100mph = 4,007 • •
120mph = 4,809 • •
128mph = 5,129 • •
135mph = 5,410 • •
140mph = 5,610 • •
150mph = 6,011 • •
(Of note; 70mph = 2,805rpm)

I have a top speed request of 128.99mph just cause I like the sound of it. Seems old fast as hell. Since I’ve finally seemed to have grown up don’t worry. I won’t be stretching her legs out on any public roads of question. I do care about how strong she goes up to the century mark. I look forward to second and third gears. She’s becoming a Lakes Sedan class killer not a drag monster.










Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You better double check your figures as you have at least 1 error, with 3.78 gear you have only 3 RPM difference from 120 MPH and 128 MPH

 

Sorry DS, I thought I double checked.
128 should be 5,966rpm with a 3.78


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Get your roof done!

 

I’m trying to stay busy. The roof needs to be worked on in the day time due noise. Now the days are bogged down with trying to teach my two 2nd graders. Their disabilities are right at the forefront now and is all I can handle. We have been struggling to finish school work by 4:00 to 5:00 and that’s on the days my wife helps some before work. I thought it would be better with them doing the same assignments. She also is more busy that I with her own Teaching and her doctorate studies. She goes to the office on weekends as well as today, Labor Day, Ha.
I try not to be a jerk but have to remind my wife this is a good example of how having the other siblings would have cost all of them dearly under my tutelage. I have my own problems that I can’t fix and I hate not being the best for these tykes. I also recognize there are hordes in much worse places so of course I’m not complaining. Being a selfish bastard internally isn’t as easy to remedy as simply realizing who you want to be on paper. not to mention I have my some pretty cool shit where others have maybe a stick and a rock, I am Hot Rod privileged.
Don’t you worry your wittle head Mr. Wabbit I’ll get that pesky woof with both hammers cocked ewentually.
Elmer F.





Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What dat woof! We're wasting wears on dis stuff.

You could be me. Sanding low spots and filling high spots. I hate bondo....

 

did you try the model A ford engine green?

 

That stuff is for cab corner patches



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Can you say Dummy?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I’m thinking something like this. Now mind you this is my first sloppy cut to fit and it’s just setting on there. The last pic shows how much more needs to be removed to go this low. I don’t know what the back cut last was. This appears like I lagged behind in the rear section maybe.
These pics also show how messed up the front roof section is sagged out.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Stogy likes...that'll make inspirationing easier with that Aft top on...The middle pic...looks of the two...better

So the belt lines are going to be interesting...so are you trimming the top piece to meet the lower aft or trimming the bottom...I guess it will both...I know you are smiling ear to ear right now...

 

I had an idea studying the pics I took today. The “drip rail” doesn’t line up in these cause the roof is only resting on whatever would grab. I like the way the back of the roof is dropped. Giving the entire top or car for that matter a rounded more aero look. I could cut the top window frame or reveal off and rock it forward in the roof to line it up.
There is a lot of narrowing that needs done to the roof as well. I sorta forgot that cutting out 5”s out of the middle of the body and sliding forward would mess with alignments. This is fine by me as I have long found the car too wide in the rear, especially chopped. I really get a kick out of this shrinking the whole car. Anything to get it closer to a 32 3w is alright with me. This all seems to help the raceyness. I might as well just cut and weld everything at this point. I’d hate for someone to think I didn’t do much to make my hot rod.
I can’t wait to have it next to another 32 or 33-34 Tudor someday. It will probably really look different don’t ya think?
Remember these photo shops?

It now looks much more like Mark’s rendering, which I owe a great deal of gratitude.

Or even?

Thanks so much everyone! The car would have been well on its way to Lameville without all your help, although possibly finished



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ya want my 2c?
I would cut a slice just above the quarter window. Move the window opening and drip rail up until the drip is right and the quarter window has a pleasing radius on the back. Then make two MDF templates of the window opening. That will allow you to get the other side the same.
Stuff the MDF in the holes(painting them black helps visualize the shape) the trim the back section of the roof above the window until the curves of the roof are pleasing and line up.

Then focus on the door and A pillar. The back will look better once that lines up.

 

That sounds like what I was trying to say. I’m gonna get the front right and at least mostly done before I fiddle with the back. I just screwed with it today for you fellers.
It looks pretty badass here with the squinting eye. Actually I kinda love the car now it almost looks the part. I may even need this

This may be too big to use now. Maybe I should cut the A-pillars an 1/8” just to be sure




Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Loving it

 

dumprat said: the trim the back section of the roof above the window until the curves of the roof are pleasing and line up.

I tried to visualize that and think it may come out close to the upper curve of the quarter window - and that would take a lot of metal work but would visually slim the top rear a lot! You're going to wind up with a body quite removed from Henry's design, whether '32 or '33-'34. It is going to look in motion while standing, and fast motion at that.

It looks as if the radiator may have to drop in order for the hood line to parallel the top. If it does not, the car will look bent at the cowl.

Too bad we are so far apart as my '32 sedan would be a good "simple lakes style" to contrast your highly modified design. Keep going, it is really evolving into a special design!